Search results

Not sure how long they've been doing them to be honest. May not have been available when you did yours. Certainly going to save a heap of time though.

Ha! Yes, everything that has come off the car has been weighed and all the fibreglass has been weighed so I will post it all up here shortly.

With the gearbox out I could only do one door and the tailgate to start. I'm happy to report it was all very straight forward. The hinges on the passenger door are the bolted type so they swapped straight over. All of the holes etc are clearly visible on the fibreglass moulding so it was easy...

So back in the workshop with the winter ahead of me I set about ordering everything I need for the upgrades. I finally made the decision to go Fibreglass! I have had the bonnet for a couple of years but the doors have always bothered me because of the way they are joined around the window...

Yes, these are the only ones I use occasionally. Injector wires will be crimped though now.

Right, nearly 6 months since my last update. 2 more races to report on (sort of). Donington was a bit of a gamble as we put a late entry in because of the misfire issue and consequently arrived there as 4th reserve. This meant that the grid was full at 40 cars max but we would qualify with...

Yes 280mm is the standard size. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, that's it. Sump can be tricky as the bolts can round off easily and it needs to aligned properly when it goes back on. If its not leaking and you're not doing the rod bolts leave it be. Also, rear main seal needs to be left sticking out a couple of mil. It's easy to knock it in too far. Bad...

Definitely do them at the same time but no need to remove engine. That’s a load more work that isn’t necessary. While you’ve got the box out you can move the engine over and up enough to get much better access to the cam belt. A days work to do both if you’re handy with the tools (and have the...

The EBay ones really aren’t any good. I tried one first but soon gave in and invested in the genuine tools. You might be able to borrow one if you’re near another forum member. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All the beams are the same yes. Only the stub axles have two variants, 10mm or 18mm (might be 20mm I can’t remember exactly) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always like seeing your work mate. It’s on my list for you to do me one in the not too distant future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was mine about 20 years ago. Loved it!

Oh it will be don’t worry! Lots of fibreglass and some carbon fibre. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not exactly. On our pre season test day this year I had intended to do just that. We ran AO50s in the morning and the plan was to switch over after lunch. Unfortunately the engine broke a rocker just before lunch so that was our day over. Hopefully we'll do the same in March. I've been tempted...

I use 195s at the moment which have been fine. Some use 205s though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AO50s aren't road legal. AO52s are.

We use Adams and Page https://adamsandpage.co.uk/ As they sponsor the CSCC who we race with so we get a bit of a discount. £130 sounds about right and if you offset that cost against not needing a set of wets they're good value!

At Combe

I also have a set of R1Rs for wets but I'm about to sell them on because they're only really good in absolutely torrential rain and anything else the AO52s are better. Last outing at Castle Combe we were running rings around most of the 40 car grid, qualifying 3rd until the gearbox failed.

To expand a little. I've been using them since they became available in 15" sizes. They were available in larger sizes for a couple of years before hand and one of my competitors ran 1 set on 16" rims for the entire season, wet and dry. And won the championship.

Yep. Nothing better on the market currently in my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of mine? Or the OPs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve changed a roof skin before (after rolling at craners !) It’s not that difficult but the windscreen needs to come out. Then it’s just a case of drilling all the spot welds all round. I bought a complete shell for £50. Removed the roof skin from that and then scrapped the rest. Sent from my...

The J&R code for the cup shaft is DS21 so I don't think you have a cup one. Drive shaft lengths are a minefield though. Do you run a diff? Length is even more critical if you do.

I have run 205s on the front and 195s on the rear on my race car in the past. Obviously better traction with 205s. On the road I doubt you’d notice any difference. BUT Toyo T1Rs are truly awful tires and if you can I’d change those and just get a matching set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even the cup setup has a place for the pas pump. Pure Motorsport do a pulley wheel to replace the pump so you can run the same belt. Alternatively you may be able to just use a shorter belt but you’d need to check that. I know it works with the non cup alternator bracket but not sure about the...

Yes I could see it was the barrel. Very disappointing as I’ve been waiting for a decent AP option to come along for 15inch wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk