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I have seen alot of changes in spectator safety in the scottish rally championship over the last 10 years. Unfortunately there was a few fatalaties which drove the change Its alot more tightly controlled, more marshalls moving on people and alot of areas where there is no spectating at all...

Get some rubber pads for your axle stands, ones woth a slot cut in then. May help reduce damage

Do you have any pictures to explain? Only differences between inlet manifolds that I am aware of is the different breather system but doesn't affect the general appearance of the manifold

If you look up Derek Rothnie on facebook, he has a pms 240 engine which he built himself. Don't think he is on here

Probably just dirt and siezed onto the pipe and wont spin freely. Either cut it or just keep turning till it shears Once its cut you'll probably get a socket on it aswell and make things alot easier

Can sometimes get round it by fitting a jacking beam / box section steel to bridge the gap and give you something to work off of but again it will eventually just get in the way of something

Your still very limited with a pit especially for any suspension work or working in the wheel arch area. Pits only good for oil change and exhaust work imo. You'll still end up working on the floor alot

Cant believe no one has corrected you yet, I can't even see any grinding discs in this thread!

Vband all the way. Spend the bit extra and do it right once. Also easier if you plan on swapping a cat for a decat come MOT time

There is one under the scuttle hidden under the wiper linkage, really awkward to get to. That one caught me out. I think there is 4 accessed from the interior footwell. Pure motorsports aircon delete guide was useful when removing mine as it has a write up on removing the heater box assembly

I ran new wishbones on my hillclimb car for a few years, just changed to powerfkex black series over the winter but yet to drive the csr in anger due to covid and no season yet so cant comment unfortubately

May be better just to buy 2 x new cup wishbones and least you know then they are right and everything is fresh. Definitely looks like there is difference but may just be with the camera angle etc. Easiest way is to see the holes directly with the wishbones and ball joints removed

Ah, I thought you were referring to the size and shape of the ph1 airbox inlets which are both circular but it was the ones on the car Like you said, most standard ducting is now really brittle and broken up, I still have it in my ph1 but it has started to part lower down. I would just go...

Are air speeds and the flow characteristics really going to have that much of an affect on a relatively standard engine? You may just be over complicating things for yourself I thought both the feeds on the airbox was the same, circular and the standard ducting has a plastic piece on the end...

And you'll have to do the belts on the replacement engine anyway so you would be aswell spend the money and time on your original engine as you know its history Destroy your original engine, buy a replacement engine, throw a belt kit on it and fit itand then it throws a bearing on your next...

Thats a really tidy setup that

The new bracket design should still reference removing the ac bracket and maybe mention the number of bolts etc to remove to give you some idea

Cant remember off the top of my head when removing mine but wasn't overly complicated Have you looked on the pure motorsport website at their guide as it is quite helpful Does it look like the bolts hold it in, can you see a split on it where it would seperate if you removed the bolts on the side?

Bought some sealey sockets and torx / allen bits off their big container stand at autosport. Some of their new stuff is quite nice and it came with lifetime warranty aswell If you can get a trade card it really helps with the halfords prices

Cup setup or pure motorsport a/c delete kit Will simplify the tensioner arrangement, give you some space and slight weight saving

As said PMS a/c delete kit will include a belt and manual tensioner. Standard tensioner assembly gets binned

If the car is left outside you could use the solar panel trickle chargers to keep it topped up? I have a ctek charger I use to keep my smaller pc680 battery topped up over winter, its on an isolator switch aswell so doesn't drain itself

That belt works fine for me using the turn buckle tensioner above with cup alternator and top bracket. Everything else is standard. Just remember run the belt 1 rib away from the engine as it can rub on the cambelt cover apparently

Are you looking to just delete pas rather than replace with epas? If so then you can remove all the power steering lines along with the pump. And fit the following kit to your existing rack https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio-2-rs-pas-steering-rack-blanking-plug-kit.html The blanking plug...

I could be wrong though. One of them has definately been replaced and one seems original on the ph1 When I fitted one of each the handbrake seemed to have a bit more slack on the flat lever

Dont think so, my ph1 has both the rounded bars like the left type When I replaced both calipers on the cup from dingbro I annoyingly got one of each type

I dont think li ion batteries like a long cable run on them and seem to be best off in engine bay

Think you've pretty much nailed it to the uniroyal rainsports with your suggestions

Thats the air intake feed to the airbox. Better replacing it with similar ducting as the original item has become quite expensive, one on ebay last week for £130!

I have the carista one from amazon and now use the obd fusion app. Have used torque pro in the past aswell Havent really had to use them in anger for diagnostics so cant comment, I use obd fusion for monitoring dpf levels mainly