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Yeah - never mind, at least I got another bearing out of it for nothing, just means finding another stub and doing the work again when ive got time :)

Yeah, probably about the same as mine and Whiteleys if you took all the bits you mentioned out too! Pretty much, plenty of spares all ready to go just need to get it all in the cars. Pretty p*ssed off that one of my hubs was knackered so ive got 3 hubs with bolts and one with stubs, oh well!

Good result, especially with a spare wheel and jack! Looking forward to having a gander at the weekend

I saw a 089 with a serial of C012937 once in a picture, not sure what it was from though.. Edit - Im sure JC5 089 is what Matteh's gearbox calculator says is for a Ph1 172, not got it to hand so cant check at the moment

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Yeah - at the time the bearing itself seemed perfectly fine (only covered a few hundred miles) but no doubt it would have got worse - its just wierd that the outer half of the stub was a smaller size, it literally drops into the bearing with room to spare...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Unsure, I turned them but had another guy clean them up for me... The other one is perfect with zero play and took a fair amount of force to press it in fully (as its always been), just wierd how this one is a loose fit and now useless!

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Had the car off the floor the other day and noticed a bit of play in the drivers side hub bearing (few hundred miles old). I thought the bearing was knackered already, so ECP agreed to replace it free of charge if I returned the pieces of the 'broken'...

Ph1 and Cup have the speedo drive in the back of the gearbox...the majority (not all) of the others use the ABS system. Take a look down the back of your engine and you will clearly see if its got a speed sensor going into the top of the diff or not.. If its not got one and its using the ABS...

Who knows if this £6 per 5l is even 10w40, its probably crude oil lol.

Mine was alright on cut slicks all day at Mallory last year, Gerrards was a good 10-15 seconds of constant 100mph right handed cornering, never had any engine/oil problems. Probably due to the cheap'o nasty 10w40 I use being nice and thick lol.

Standard ones im guessing, they are pretty much a set design to bolt into the door in specific places - they can be had dirt cheap from scrap yards and are easy to swap

Its alright, mine are now more like brown with all the baked on brake dust, lol.

Snap... Black ftw!

Nice one - My phone ran out of battery as I was texting you back about your PAS pump lol, whats up with it?

Its a small road between J22 of the M6 and Lowton - Just off Winwick lane

M10 with a 13mm head? Cant say ive ever used one on the car, ever lol. The ones that came with this engine were M10 with a 16mm head, same as all the gearbox-to-block bolts, wierd.

3 x 16mm bolts and 1 x 13mm nut for the main live feed - just make sure you disconnect the battery first! Comes out through the top easy enough...

One thing ive never understood about the 172/182 F4R's is why did Renault use a keyed crank pulley? Yeah, the timing is 'floating' and you have to spin the belt over to tension it without anything tight - but even if the crank was locked/keyed the cam pullies are still floating so it would...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Sounds a lot different to outside (now ive heard it, lol). I had never heard it from outside, as since doing the changes above last year it seemend a lot quieter than the original Mongoose in general, especially when at 70mph. Probably leave it as is now as...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project - Decat/Downpipe - Modified Mongoose Center Section with Silencer Removed (2.5") - Modified Mongoose Backbox with 2.5" Tip (And half the internal wadding removed) Backbox Cut Open & Half of The Wadding Removed Tip Removed New Tip Welded On

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Bit of a sound clip from yesterday - the exhaust has changed the way it sounds over the past few thousand miles compared to when I first modified it... ...still, its only 97db so its all good!

Yup as said really, same engine pretty much externally so the same gearbox and drivetrain can be retained. You just need to make a downpipe and plumb some sort of intercooler in. ECU unlocking is easy these days, Scoff does it - http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=167

Been the past two years, always a good day even if its just to see some 'proper' cars. Unfortunately I cant make it there this year as im at Ford Fair on the same day :(

Yeah - its quite a common conversion, alot have done it. Engines can be picked up cheap, easy to get power from etc

Just needs a new set of brackets making and painting black really, its just being driven for now to test everythings ok :)

It could be anywhere between 150-160bhp at the moment from research, he keeps playing with the boost controller etc. The Volvo ECU has a boost cut/limiter at approx 14psi - but once thats removed from the ECU anywhere upto 190bhp is possible apparently!

Grabbed a few pictures and videos of a mates recently finished Mk1 with a Volvo B18FT engine - plenty of fun for something which has cost pretty much nothing to do in comparison to some builds! Bit of a video to come later.

Embed ftw..

Yeah - but his throttle is stopping short of the grub screw which is leaving him a high idle. If he winds the screw out to rest on it, it will never go lower than the 'high idle' position - as the throttle will be in the same position as when it sticks. If he wanted to set a 'manual' idle, he...

Oh a ph1 its an 'ok' signal, but ph2 might be coded. Easier to access the solenoid wire from underneath the engine with your hand/arm up the back I think it is on mine anyway!