Search results

No they're advertised at 6.2 but that's for a bare wheel with no centre cap, maximum centre bore and 5 studs and ET45. The higher the ET number the further in the arch it sits. ET35 is the best option IMO

TD 1.2 are 6.7kg in ET35 then take off around 100g per 5mm e.g 6.6kg ET40

Looks nice. 2118 weigh 7.2kg

Mine doesn't use any. Haven't had to top it up in the 2 years and several track days I've had it.

If you're going to do cams then fit something better than 428s! The ITB kit you're looking at is good value.

I like the wheels, but that's only because I know what they are! I do like the EP3. A bit of weight loss and that will be quicker than a Clio I reckon.

We need to get out on track @Chi and make some BWARRRRP ITB noises :)

Yes

They don't!

Cool car! I'd love a Rallye. Glad to see its the S1, I prefer them to the S2.

I had to bed my CL pads in on track!

Yeah they are very good, all you need to go with them are the normal Brembo HC discs around £40-50. I need to build a new garage, that's the plan for next winter. I've got a car port to keep the car under but it's not wide enough to open the doors fully. I feel your pain with winter car work!

25mm inner 23mm outer I think

I found the DS2500 would fade after a while and the last time I used them they glazed over and took the discs with them. The DS3000 are good pads but they wear discs and the dust eats into the paint on the wheels and the car. Yellowstuff are pretty good for the money but I find the brake...

This update makes me sad :( Mind you, we need a bigger house really but the new one will be a second house which undoubtedly means the Clio will go. So no diff is much better than no Clio!

DS2500 aren't good for track and DS3000 will make a right mess of your white wheels.

Looks good with the white wheels and cage. Don't fancy the Gordini stripes? Wish my Mrs would have a go on track, tried to persuade her a few times but to no avail.

You want something with a round backbox and no centre silencer. So something like a yozza or oreca system. Although on a turbo I would go custom and 2.75-3" pipework.

Of all those you've listed, ET38. I'd fit ET35 though

Do as Dan has said, All the 197 bits in a 1*2 block. The alternative is to go forged high company and just fit the head with uprated valve springs and bigger cams then go for more power from the off. Exhaust manifold can be retained but you need a 197 specific inlet manifold (either AT Power or...

With a F4R you're best starting with a 197/200 engine if you want to go N/A. The lighter crank, better flowing head and stronger valve springs mean achieving something like 225bhp is much cheaper than a 1*2 engine. You don't need to touch the head and the standard pistons just need slight...

Same diameter though. A few people have the Brembos with ABS

Yeah have a look through the last 2-3 pages of my project thread. On the standard cup cylinder. If you want an equivalent braking effort from Wilwoods you need 300mm discs and more aggressive pads than you need with Brembos and 280mm discs. That made the choice for me quite an easy decision.

Yeah they're not a bad tyre, a little better than the R888 imo. But I'd go Dunlop, Michelin pilot sport cup first; although I haven't tried the pilot sports only read excellent reviews.

You can't compare the two...one is an ultra high performance road tyre MSA List 1A and the other is a road legal slick MSA List 1B. Try them both in the wet and then see what comes out on top. The AD08R is a great all rounder and it doesn't go off after plenty of abuse. Anyway for all the posts...

Should have said, I have the Brembos under 15" ET35 pro race 1.2. I went for the superior callipers (imo)

3mm spacer should be enough. I've got 10mm but I'll be replacing these with 3mm ones.

Impressed with my Yokohama AD08R so far, great in the dry and wet although a bit difficult to get heat into when wet. If you want more performance in the dry then DZ03G are very good, get the hard compound rather than the medium. What tyres were you overheating?

Cool car! That torque is impressive. What ecu are you running?

OEM/OEM+ all the way. Buy a tatty one to track, plenty of them around but not many honest low mileage/owner ones so look after it!