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Haha, TBH honest mate on a more road oriented car I think they would be fine as they grip really well in all condition. Its just on my super stiff track car they are the only thing to flex when road driving, therefore they feel very spongy and lack real feed back.

With my AR1's now shot, i'm in need of some more semi-slicks. I currently have the overkill of 3 sets of wheels and have to rely on others to carry an extra set to track. One set for wets and road with Rainsport 5's, which are only good for very wet conditions, for road they really lack and...

MTEC C-hook discs are decent. I've also used MTEC grooved/dotted with no issues. Stay away from drilled. I've had mixed experiences with Brembo HC so I stay away from them now. However Pagid OE are very good.

At the rear of the car you can use the rear beam. You can also use the chassis rails front and rear, just use a pad or cardboard so you dont scratch away the rubber coating.

Check both front shocks for rebound speed and stiffness.

SC all day, TC track cars are boooooring!

YOLO! R8 all day, it will be infinitely more fun than a RS6 and worth the monthly payments.

I just arrange the freight myself and ask them to pack as above, if they wont then they get told to do one.

Just get 2 square bits of cardboard for each face of the wheel, bin bag over and tape the s**t out of it. Sent lots through Paisley freight this way.

Used slicks can be a lottery. Some maybe relatively new with decent tread but heat cycled out. If heat cycled out they tend to be like plastic and feel rock hard. I always ask the sellers what car and race series they came from and if they still feel tacky and soft enough you can dig a finger...

You can use wheel and tyre sizes to slightly adjust final drive too. If I use 16s with a 45 sidewall at Oulton it means I can stay in 4th down island straight before hitting the limiter at 107mph. With 15s and a 45 sidewall I'm having to shift into 5th at 103mph just before braking. Its...

7J

Go with 15s, there's zero gains running 17s. Plenty of slick tyre choice too. Dunlop, Michelin, MRF, Hankook etc. I run Hankook ventus F200 on my MR2 in 15s and they are fantastic. 200/580/15 but the actual contact patch are nearly as wide as my 225 45 15 AR1's.

Once you drop the coolant, use a hose pipe to run through the system before filling with new coolant. Cant remember if the housing is plastic or metal? If metal just re-use, if plastic buy new. Cant remember what I did when I changed mine on the 182. Dont remember it being a tough job though.

Yeah same, wired brushed the flywheel and rubbed down the plate disc.

What's the deal here? Never fitted a new clutch. I'm reading info a clutch should be bedded in gently over 300-500 city miles, surely not. The kit is only LUK OE and my car has as much torque as a lawn mower.

The want for one of these as a daily/back-up track car is still strong. My favorite looking Reno.

Still not managed to drop it on its wheels, but when in gear with the engine off I can spin one of the hubs, it doesn't lock like its in gear, and the other shaft spins the opposite direction. With the engine on and in gear i can stop one of the hubs from spinning. As@JamesBryan mentioned this...

Just changed the clutch on my MR2 and after bolting it all back together, with just the hubs attached on stands, I can change gear without the clutch. The hubs are spinning quite fast in neutral so thinking that its spinning fast enough to match gears without the clutch? In gear it definitely...

If the valves aren't moving with the crank turning then it doesn't look good. Sounds like the belts gone. Did you rotate the crank whilst viewing the belt?

Remove the plugs to see what they look like, and whilst they're out turn the crank again and look at the belt as it turns. The aux belt runs the alternator so it may not start without the belt and a drained battery.

Just pull the top cam belt cover off and turn the crank by hand to see what the cam belt is doing.

Would be the first time mate.

Jeez, what a bloody minefield. Cant find a definitive answer online on what to use. Was just going to use a spear of this below, but not sure now? Liqui Moly - LM47 Long Life Grease with MoS2 - High Performance - 100g - 3510 | eBay

Only clutch kit I can find for the MR2 with discount is from Larkspeed, but never heard of the brand DriveTorque :unsure: DriveTorque Stage 1 Clutch Kit Toyota Celica 1.8i 16v (09/99 >) Eng Code 2ZZGE | eBay

Awesome experience. A PUG 208 R5 was at Blyton testing last year, the way they exit corners is just unreal.

Presume this type of s**t is why K-TEC isn't affiliated with the club anymore?

Well worth it that. Mine is £300 on the MR2 and an extra few hundred quid for 6 track days is a bargain. Its £60-70 for one days track insurance normally. Do they cover mods like for like though?

Another cheap 2ZZ Roadster going here on MR2OC, needs a few minor bits and MOT but i'd bet he'd take £2k for it. 2000 PFL 2ZZ Roadster for Sale (mr2roc.org) I've owned this car for around 4 years now, and it's been great fun on the road and the track. But my priorities have changed so don't...

Looking for a laptop for video editing in 1080p, will need to be under £300 so used/refurbished. Currently looking at this. Any other recommendations?