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Surprisingly I ended up with two missing nuts, And having my nose glued back together after the breaker bar I was levering the exhaust manifold off with twatted me in the face.

Thanks!

As the post says, I'm in the process of putting the car back together after changing the gearbox, and having been weeks since i stripped it down I cannot for the life of me remember where this parts goes, and I didn't take a photo of this part unlike everything else. Help.

It has cruise control, traction control and abs, if that helps.

As above , having first thought it was a circlip failure, I'm led to believe by those in the know on here that it's actually a fubar'd diff, so I need a new gearbox, So it's a 2003 172 with the bolt on diff plate instead of the circlip. So what's the best gearbox to look out for? Can I fit...

Yep drive shaft is fine, So should the drive shaft just pull out with no resistance? So how will I know if it's the diff without removing the gearbox, don't wanna buy a new box before I know I need it. The outer part with the t30 torx screws can also be spun independently from the middle part.

So finally stripped it down, to my surprise it has the bolt on cover, however there was no circlip present and the drive shaft was loose, is it just a case of undoing the cover put the new circlip and spacer on and bolt bag together?

Can I just replace the circlip thing ? As a temporary measure

Fancy a trip to the Isle of Wight lol so how hard is it to fit the bolt on plate, accessible without much hassle?

Wait just saw the post about the circlip, so is welding the only option?

Yep jacked it up checked all gears wheels roll fine, put a little pressure on the passenger side wheel and the grinding starts. It has traction control and cruise control. Anyone selling a suitable second hand drive shaft?

Sorry forgot to add this is my second 172 and it's not a cup this time.

So I've just pulled out from a roundabout on my way home, at 10mph tops, as I turned there was a loud bang and I lost all drive to the wheels. If i put the car in gear you can hear spinning but the wheels don't move and the car doesn't stall, I was towed home by the AA, and the car made no weird...

Anyone??

So I've had a look online but cannot find a solution, My traction control light doesn't illuminate when in use or if I turn the switch off, however it is still working and so is the switch. When I activate the test mode for the dials it light's up. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Kirk.

So I checked but couldn't even find that earth connection, however as I suspected it was the UCH I removed it and sent it away for repair, and yep it was the UCH, cost £60 and had to send the key with it, but two days later it was back and with a new key fob Thanks for all the replies tho

Could one broken earth really cause all the fault's with the windows light's wipers etc and all the relays clicking. I'll check this wire tomorrow thanks.

Car has had new alternator a couple of weeks ago, and swapped the battery from mates that he only bought a couple of days ago. Changed the battery in the key fob straight away, all terminals and pcb board look ok.

The reason I thought it was the UCH is the day before, the lights, windows and wipwes all stop working, and the relays under the glove box clicked like crazy and the wipers were off and on. It had previously happened before, for a few seconds, but only noticed the headlight's flash on and off.

It's definitely not the battery, checked with a volt meter as is fine but charged it ivernover to he sure, key fob will still not unlock the car or do anything what so ever.

So Ive just gone to go out and the key fob does nothing, it light's up on the key but the car doesn't react. Opening the door with the key sets of the alarm which will not switch off, the car will also not start. The indicators do not flash.. It is lifeless.

This noise is on top of the dephaser pulley rattle,(that has been an issue for a while) this is new noise and a lot louder. I've been debating whether to replace the dephaser pulley or buy a new car as it had a few power loss issue's last winter, that arrived and left with the cold I was...

Hi all just drove back from work and while reversing out of a space it let out a very loud rattle, while driving I dipped the clutch and the noise stopped, revved it sharply and it rattles again, slowly revving in neutral and no rattle, but rev a little harder and it rattles like crazy.

So I replaced the wire from the ecu to the coilpack, it's been fine all weekend however on the way to work this morning it was doing the same again , so it wasn't the wiring? Do the ecu's have any known faults that can cause this?

Surely the lambda sensor would not stop the coilpack sparking?

Hi people been a member for a while had the car for 3 year's but a couple of months ago the car started misfiring on two cylinders although can't remember which ones. I replaced the coil pack, ht leads and sparkplugs, but to no avail. While the misfire was happening i took of the ht leads one...

It's a weight saving then lol and on the plus side i guess i won't ever have to replace the rear brakes then :D

Would it not be an m.o.t fail tho?

always one ain't there lol. So i tried the search option on here but couldn't find anything about the brakes any info for me guys?

So i bought a clio cup 172 today and noticed one of the rear discs is rusted and only worn in the centre of the disc despite some heavy braking on my way home, now I've read about these cars having a weak rear brakes but surely this is not normal that about half the disc isn't making contact...