£3.50 answer to a stiff and creaky clutch?

[buzzer1955]

There are quite a few references on here to creaky clutches, I.E. you get a creak when you press the pedal. Mine has suffered this since I bought it so a couple of weeks ago I decided to look into it.

I lubricated the cable where it comes through the bulkhead, under the dash, but this made no difference. With someone working the pedal I could actually hear the creak it in the clutch area so I turned my attention there.

I removed the air box so I could get to the clutch lever easily. With this removed I disconnected the clutch cable for a moment and then removed the rubber lever gaiter. I could then see the ball where the lever pivots. I gave this a squirt of grease.

I then reconnected the clutch cable (still with the gaiter off) and tried the clutch again. It was slightly smother but the creak was still there, louder in fact as with the gaiter removed you could hear it more.

The noise seemed to be coming from the clutch diaphragm fingers… I popped to the motor factors and bought a tin of spray grease for £3.50, one with a long spray extension on. Back home I made the extension longer with a pen refill (I blew the ink out first!)

With the engine on tick over, and a good torch so I could see where I was squirting, I gave the clutch diaphragm fingers a squirt of grease … I didn’t use much for obvious reasons! I got in the car and worked the clutch… not only had the creak gone but the clutch was noticeably lighter and much smother! It REALLY has made a massive difference to how the clutch feels!

I know some people are going to say that you should not get grease near a clutch but in reality I was spraying it well away from any friction material. Anyway, soon as you get some revs on there the excess will centrifuge off to the bell housing. just go easy with the grease!


Up to you if you try it… As I say it’s worked for me and my clutch is creak free and nice and smooth!

 

[ripp]

so you say it's rubbing where the release bearing touches the pressure plate fingers? interesting to see if this cure lasts, so please report back if it's coming back soon

 

[jinjur]

VERY interesting post mate, I had thought this EXACT same thing but didnt try it as I doubted whether it would last given the forces in there.

Keep us posted.

J

 

[jinjur]

Also curious to what spray grease you used?

I wonder just how heavy a grease you can get that sprays through a tube.......can you get molyb stuff?

I have copper grease in a spray tin that I thought was usually quite resilient.

J

 

[Blue Mez]

Does anyone else get the following symptoms...

When de-pressing the clutch slowly, it comes up in stages rather than smoothly. and when stuck in traffic for a long time, it gets worse. Makes it really hard to get a smooth biting point?

 

[buzzer1955]

Also curious to what spray grease you used?

I wonder just how heavy a grease you can get that sprays through a tube.......can you get molyb stuff?

I have copper grease in a spray tin that I thought was usually quite resilient.

J

I used some Motorcycle chain grease. It comes in a spray tin and is used for motorbike chains. it has high lubrication, penetration and importantly, good cling properties as you would expect for something that needs to stick to a super-bike chain!

Motorbike chain grease also has the advantage that its thinned with a highly volatile solvent that very quickly evaporates leaving a much thicker grease than you could easily spray.

I will report back if there is any change, but its been a while now since i did it and i did a 300 mile trip the other day...

 

[buzzer1955]

Does anyone else get the following symptoms...

When de-pressing the clutch slowly, it comes up in stages rather than smoothly. and when stuck in traffic for a long time, it gets worse. Makes it really hard to get a smooth biting point?

Thats exactly the symptoms I had... its gone now...

It would be great if someone else tried this and reported back as well.

 

[Blue Mez]

I used some Motorcycle chain grease. It comes in a spray tin and is used for motorbike chains. it has high lubrication, penetration and importantly, good cling properties as you would expect for something that needs to stick to a super-bike chain!

Motorbike chain grease also has the advantage that its thinned with a highly volatile solvent that very quickly evaporates leaving a much thicker grease than you could easily spray.

I will report back if there is any change, but its been a while now since i did it and i did a 300 mile trip the other day...

Is the grease oil based, if so it will eventually rot the nylon cable!

Thats exactly the symptoms I had... its gone now...

It would be great if someone else tried this and reported back as well.

hmmmm would of been good of you to get some pics up mate, then we all know exactly where you were spraying

 

[boomerbang2006]

"When de-pressing the clutch slowly, it comes up in stages rather than smoothly. and when stuck in traffic for a long time, it gets worse. Makes it really hard to get a smooth biting point?"

I have always had this since i`ve had the car,it can get a bit embarassing when you move in traffic and kangaroo!!,i`d be interesred in pics and where to spray if this works.

 

[buzzer1955]

Is the grease oil based, if so it will eventually rot the nylon cable!


hmmmm would of been good of you to get some pics up mate, then we all know exactly where you were spraying

??? I didn't spray the grease on the cable?

Its difficult enough getting your hand down there, let alone a camera!

you are spraying the grease on the clutch diaphragm fingers to lubricate where the clutch release bearing contacts, and the pivot points of the fingers/diaphram itself.

 

[ripp]

you mean the fork (or lever as you said initially) fingers that press the release bearing onto the pressure plate? is that where you greased? never heard of clutch diaphragm before

 

[buzzer1955]

here is a picture of a clutch cover (its not a Clio but you will get the idea...)

you need to spray where i have highlighted in red. To be honest, with the engine running you are going to get good coverage in these areas anyway! critical points are where the bearing touches the fingers and the diaphragm pivot points (of which there are many but you cant see them in the picture....) spraying with the engine running means you will get them all.

Also lubricate the clutch lever pivot ball which you can see when you take the gaiter off easily.

 

[ripp]

ok, this is clear now, thx! I have some lithium based grease, do you think I should buy some motor bike chain oil instead?

 

[buzzer1955]

you mean the fork (or lever as you said initially) fingers that press the release bearing onto the pressure plate? is that where you greased? never heard of clutch diaphragm before

Cars use different types of clutch cover. they used to use a spring type which used a series of coil springs to put pressure on the the driven plate. Most modern clutches now use a diaphragm spring for this purpose. its a single piece spring, pressed from a flat piece of spring steel. Most clutches use these these days as they are lighter, cheaper to make and last longer. Even motorcycles use these now...

 

[buzzer1955]

ok, this is clear now, thx! I have some lithium based grease, do you think I should buy some motor bike chain oil instead?

If it was me, and I already had some, I would give it a try....

Let me know how you get on!

 

[jinjur]

Ill have a wee crack at this over the weekend and document it just in case it is a durable fix and merits the guides section

Of course, Buzz will have to take the glory though

J

 

[Blue Mez]

Keep us updated as to how long this lasts please, cheers.

 

[Jonny1*2]

also interested in this. Mine squeeks like a b**ch after a track session. Heat is the enemy

 

[Triki]

Just throwing this out there .......


I think it's actually the release bearing that's sticking on the input shaft. And the lube is allowing the release bearing to move freely on the shaft, hence the better clutch pedal.

 

[Jonny1*2]

Just throwing this out there .......


I think it's actually the release bearing that's sticking on the input shaft. And the lube is allowing the release bearing to move freely on the shaft, hence the better clutch pedal.

That's kind of obvious no? There might be nothing wrong with the bearing, just the heat makes it a little more squeeky against the fingers. Will be interesting to see if this lasts, but if not, it's not exactly a long job to redo every few months.

 

[jinjur]

The fingers obviously get worn a little, somtimes with ridges in them because of the force the release bearing puts on them but a bit of oil may help the bearing slide over these ridges...

Getting the oil on the input shaft slider may also help as this tends to get dirty over time and loses its "slideyness" (patent on that word)

So the oil is probably helping in 2 areas IMO.


J

 

[buzzer1955]

The fingers obviously get worn a little, somtimes with ridges in them because of the force the release bearing puts on them but a bit of oil may help the bearing slide over these ridges...

Getting the oil on the input shaft slider may also help as this tends to get dirty over time and loses its "slideyness" (patent on that word)

So the oil is probably helping in 2 areas IMO.


J

I think you are right, getting a bit of grease in this area probably does add a little "slideyness" to everything (awaits letter for patent infringement) I would be interested to hear from anyone else who gives it a go...

 

[Triki]

That's kind of obvious no? There might be nothing wrong with the bearing, just the heat makes it a little more squeeky against the fingers. Will be interesting to see if this lasts, but if not, it's not exactly a long job to redo every few months.

Well I thought it was obvious. Hence why I mentioned it ....

 

[Jonny1*2]

Well I thought it was obvious. Hence why I mentioned it ....

 

[Andyman]

Not sure about all this.

How comes when you fit a new clutch cable the squeeky noise usually disappears? :S

 

[Andy_con]

can we get a photo guide?

 

[jinjur]

can we get a photo guide?

Ill do it this w/e

Lithium grease or motorbike chain grease?

Or arte they the same?


J

 

[jenic]

Might try this, once a guide is produced.

I have loads of chain wax from when i had a bike, would this work or is it too thick do you think?

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/castrol-chain-wax/

 

[buzzer1955]

Might try this, once a guide is produced.

I have loads of chain wax from when i had a bike, would this work or is it too thick do you think?

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/castrol-chain-wax/

Just reading the first line which states....

"Castrol Chain Wax is a synthetic motorcycle chain lube that sprays on as a mildly thick wax. It dries hard and leaves a coating. "

I dont think its suitable if it dries hard.

In reality, i think any ordinary spray grease will do, even the coppa slip type. its about lubing the bits that have gone dry over time

 

[jinjur]

its about lubing the bits that have gone dry over time

 

[buzzer1955]

I am talking grease here.... not KY jelly :rasp:

 

[Alexjfinch]

This warrants a stick IMO.

*Awaits guide*

 

[Andyman]

So why does replacing the cable stop the 'squeek' ??

 

[jinjur]

Submitted to "guides" as follows.

So, our fellow board member buzzer1955 came across this wee idea to sort out a creaky clutch pedal which i am sure we all have experienced so I tried it over the weekend and it has indeed made a notable difference to the clutch feel in my car which has the creak.

I thought i'd document the work while i did it.

Ok, you will need:

T30 Torx screwdriver
10mm socket
8mm socket
Teeny tiny torch (Halfords, awesomely useful)
Flat head screwdriver
Some spray grease (I used lithium grease but we havent decided whats best)

View attachment 47853

I also "fashioned" an extended nozzle for my spray oil using a spare straw and some lovely heatshrink.....you will appreciate the longer reach when you see where you have to get the oil.

View attachment 47857

First, start by removing the airbox lid, using the T30 Torx driver to undo the bolts

View attachment 47851

Now, using the 8mm socket, undo the jubilee clips holding on the flexi, i tend to remove them both for ease

View attachment 47852

Now, hoik the filter out....

View attachment 47856

2 10mm bolts hold in the airbox so start by removing these with the 10mm socket

View attachment 47854

The 2 air intake pipes into the airbox also hold it in so using the flat head screwdriver, prise them out....you can see where press tabs hold them both in.

View attachment 47855

You will be left looking at this pile of crap.......but that wee rubbery yoke that i have highlighted needs to be trailed out. Remove the clutch cable from the arm (very easy, just slides off) and pull the rubber cover off......

View attachment 47860

Now, you will be looking at 2 things through this hole....you will see the fingers of the clutch cover and you will also see the wee white bush that the arm pivots on.....i greased both.

So firstly i pulled the arm towards the engine exposing the pretty much grease/oil/lubricant free ball....I hit this with a wee toot of lube.

View attachment 47850


Now the fun and games.....very hard to show but ill try my best.....I started the engine and VERY CAREFULLY (i.e. WATCH THE COOLING FAN :dead, I took aim with my spray and a torch and gave the clutch cover fingers a spray as close to the centre as possible.

Dont go crazy though, remember there are friction surfaces in there that MUST NOT get slippy or its new clutch time.

View attachment 47849

You might get some lube on the shaft, which is good.....i couldnt see the shaft to get any spray on it but it might have happened as a byproduct.

The longevity of this hasnt been tested yet so this is far from a confirmed long term fix....but it might just buy you a few months.

There is no quick fix for a worn/ridged clutch cover but a bit 'O' lube never hurt anyone



Cheers
Andy

With full credit to: buzzer1955

 

[jinjur]

So why does replacing the cable stop the 'squeek' ??

I reckon that the squeak is indeed in the cable Andy and that if things are a bit tougher inside the box, the new cable deals with it better than the old.

 

[Andyman]

So really this guide is for the stifness, the creak is a seperate issue (the cable)

I had my box fully rebuilt a few K's ago and the clutch feel is a hell of a lot lighter. The creek is still there but retained the original cable so would tie in with the seperate issue theory

 

[ripp]

no, the cable has rarely anything to do with the creak. I changed my clutch one year ago and used some copper grease here and there. the creak was gone for a few days. if the cable was one of the parts causing it I should've heard the creak right after the clutch was replaced

 

[Darren S]

As others - mine really, really pisses my off in warm weather. This time of year though, all is quiet.

D.

 

[jinjur]

no, the cable has rarely anything to do with the creak. I changed my clutch one year ago and used some copper grease here and there. the creak was gone for a few days. if the cable was one of the parts causing it I should've heard the creak right after the clutch was replaced

Actually, ill second this.......my Civic clutch pedal used to creak like an old cupboard door. I hated that pedal.

Anyway, changed the clutch one day and bish bosh bash....creak gone.

Again, all down to the lower load on the cable i think.

So yeah, i think the above will do no harm to try tbh....

Do it FFS, it took me ages to do that guide.

YOU OWE IT TO ME!!



J

 

[Andyman]

no, the cable has rarely anything to do with the creak. I changed my clutch one year ago and used some copper grease here and there. the creak was gone for a few days. if the cable was one of the parts causing it I should've heard the creak right after the clutch was replaced

Well im in the 'rare group' then lol because changing the cable few years back cured my creaking