ABS Delete - Fittings question

[Usr117063]

I have ordered a 23.8 4 port mc now for abs delete, just need some clarification on fittings

This is all the gear. Im using 90 degree swivels for the top mc port holes to make things a bit more tidy and 2 for the rear calipers. Normal swivels for Y adapters and bottom port holes

This is not including the m to m for the rear calipers or into the front lines, does anyone know the sizes for them?

How much line will I roughly need? 8 metres a safe number or dont need that much?

I then take it its routing, securing the lines and the bias location

Please give me a shout if ive missed anything

Tia

 

[Camsmyth]

I have ordered a 23.8 4 port mc now for abs delete, just need some clarification on fittings

View attachment 1345463
This is all the gear. Im using 90 degree swivels for the top mc port holes to make things a bit more tidy and 2 for the rear calipers. Normal swivels for Y adapters and bottom port holes
View attachment 1345451

This is not including the m to m for the rear calipers or into the front lines, does anyone know the sizes for them?

How much line will I roughly need? 8 metres a safe number or dont need that much?

I then take it its routing, securing the lines and the bias location

Please give me a shout if ive missed anything

Tia

You should consider hard lines - flaring and bending is not all that hard but if you go for braided then the part I can't see is how you are connecting to the bias valve.

For the connection back to the brake lines at the ends you will need m10x1 males like the 4 you have for the mc.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[Usr117063]

@Camsmyth

Thanks for the info!

https://www.motamec.com/motamec-male-adaptor-bulkhead-brake-hose-fitting-m10-aeroquip.html

Im considering this, so just a line from the mono into the valve then the same again to the rears, with the bolt hole it will be easier to secure also
https://www.motamec.com/motamec-3-8...ess-steel-brake-fitting-adaptor.html?___SID=S

I know performance wise a braided setup probably wont be any difference, but its pretty nice... even though you wont ever see it :yum:

 

[Camsmyth]

@Camsmyth

Thanks for the info!

https://www.motamec.com/motamec-male-adaptor-bulkhead-brake-hose-fitting-m10-aeroquip.html

Im considering this, so just a line from the mono into the valve then the same again to the rears, with the bolt hole it will be easier to secure also
https://www.motamec.com/motamec-3-8...ess-steel-brake-fitting-adaptor.html?___SID=S

I know performance wise a braided setup probably wont be any difference, but its pretty nice... even though you wont ever see it :yum:

Don't you need the M10 to an3 male/male at the brake end (your not running right to the caliper right, just to the front hoses and rear beam?).

Re the bias valve that makes sense but what fitting are you actually screwing into each end of the valve?

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[Usr117063]

https://www.motamec.com/motamec-bra...ressure-adjustable-knob-type-100-1000psi.html

I will be replacing the f to m that come with the bias with these
https://www.motamec.com/motamec-1-8-npt-to-3-8x24-unf-brake-hose-fitting-connector-adaptor.html

Then this fitting and line will connect the valve to the t piece
https://www.motamec.com/motamec-an-...hose-fitting-end-alloy-fuel-oil-aeroquip.html

I will have 2 of those ^^ from the mc into these for the fronts to connect to the lines from the caliper (Not sure about this completely)
https://www.motamec.com/media/catal...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/S/MSTRD1502_1.jpg

@Camsmyth
Rears will be m to m yes

 

[Camsmyth]

https://www.motamec.com/motamec-bra...ressure-adjustable-knob-type-100-1000psi.html
View attachment 1345520

I will be replacing the f to m that come with the bias with these
https://www.motamec.com/motamec-1-8-npt-to-3-8x24-unf-brake-hose-fitting-connector-adaptor.html
View attachment 1345521
Then this fitting and line will connect the valve to the t piece
https://www.motamec.com/motamec-an-...hose-fitting-end-alloy-fuel-oil-aeroquip.html
View attachment 1345522


I will have 2 of those ^^ from the mc into these for the fronts to connect to the lines from the caliper (Not sure about this completely)
https://www.motamec.com/media/catal...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/S/MSTRD1502_1.jpg
View attachment 1345523
@Camsmyth
Rears will be m to m yes

Looks good. Could not see that in your basket! Make sure it is an3 (looks like it is but does not say).

So a bulkhead fitting through the current holes at the front caliper end. Good idea.

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[Usr117063]

Looks good. Could not see that in your basket! Make sure it is an3 (looks like it is but does not say).

So a bulkhead fitting through the current holes at the front caliper end. Good idea.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I had a little change around since the first post!:smile: Was just figuring out whats gonna work best

Thanks for the help

New basket, all from motamec now. More than I had in mind but will be worth it

Would be nice..

 

[Usr117063]

Regarding the routing, I would like to route the bias in arms reach so by the gear stick, I see this done often. I will have a proper look my self but was wondering if people have done this sort of thing and where the lines would route through, would you drill a hole through the passenger firewall and feed through there? Is it best I use a bulkhead m to m for this and to help with securing?

Also how hot do the lines get externally? Or is the heat just nearer to the callipers?

 

[Usr117063]

Ive just secured all the internal lines today and am making up the external ones tomorrow, should be done by the weekend but Im worried ill die. The fittings are very tight on the braid so I see no reason for failure but still paranoid

 

[VenomUK]

@ZachB Was there ever an update on this or pictures, as I'm currently looking to do the same on my clio and found this thread very helpful. Would be good to see the finished project and how you routed things?

 

[Usr117063]

@VenomUK So Ive changed brake systems a couple times since that. It worked.. But wasnt ideal. The mc was angled and brake fluid would escape from the reservoir easily, the npt fittings into the valve were such a pain to deal with and leaked at the start, the motamec fittings arnt great quality, seeing what their steering wheel could do (almost snap in 2 its so flexible) I would assume they distribute a lot of chinese parts. Some adapators/male fittings are not the same 'seat angle' as the female ones and will cause problems and I would only buy fittings now from reputable companies such as;
https://atec-autotechnik.com/en/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/torques_uk?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Ive bought a lot from them now, decent stuff

If you're doing internal lines then route them so they look the neatest, it really has no difference where they go, unless they are close to the exhaust... I would also go for a tilton or ap racing bias valve and they will be either m10 or -3 threads which I would chose heavily over npt.

 

[VenomUK]

I was looking at getting the parts from Torque UK as you've suggested.

Don't suppose you have a list of fittings and quantities to hand do you along with length of line you ended up using?

Also interested in how you done the rear lines? I was thinking of going direct to the rear calipers (if thats even an option). If you go through the rear wheel wells (or local area) towards the rear caliper and into the caliper or do you still use the original hardline at the caliper? (this is where pictures give great inspiration)

As much help as you're willing would be gratefully received

 

[Usr117063]

@VenomUK Sorry I was cut short earlier so couldnt finish my post.

I dont have a parts list as theres lots of different ways you can go about it. I was going to say that it depends on how much you want to spend, you could use a bulkhead male fitting that bolts to the boot floor then a female to female that goes into the caliper with an -3 to -3 adaptor. That would be one less fitting than using a bulkhead adaptor through the boot then 2 female fittings to connect to it. Or you could use some nice polymer coated hardline and save £££ As all the fittings are cheaper and look tidier imo.

Rear lines are -3 to -3 adaptor, then a 90deg swivel into a straight swivel or 45deg, whatever angle you thinks best going into the car. The problem Is the seat angle of the adaptor I dont trust into the caliper, it works... But possibly using a crush washer type fitting would be better. This is where I would be looking at the atec fittings for this sort of thing because they have many different variations and if you call you can ask them questions on the fittings and they'l visually inspect them for you there and then.

I looked at Tomoteks build as he'l be the best person to look at for this. He used a crush washer so that answers that 😁

#36

First job was to get the car stripped back to where it was before. All the body panels were removed for better access, plus modification at a later date!

(I apologise for the poor photo quality on some of these pics... ancient Galaxy S4 plus poor lighting in the garage led to some great pics haha)

View attachment 1316209
View attachment 1316210

I decided to tackle to brake flexi lines next. I measured up and cut some dash 3 clear coated braided hose and fitted the glorious ATEC aluminium fittings. (defo worth the money!)

Rear Lines first.
View attachment 1316211
View attachment 1316212View attachment 1316213View attachment 1316214

Just need to P clip the hose to the rear axle to prevent it going anywhere near the rear springs!.. don't want to trap a brake line do we... not that the rears do much anyway!

Caliper back plate, standard pads and new retaining clips/plate fitted.

View attachment 1316215

Then onto the front lines - checking the length was correct for full lock and both full bump and rebound.
(the spherical is just there to stop dirt getting in the caliper until the new bleed nipples arrived)
View attachment 1316216
View attachment 1316217

 

[VenomUK]

I see what you mean by having an actual hard line run through the car, it looks alot nicer. I've had a search for polymer coated hardline but cant find any info on them?

 

[Usr117063]

I see what you mean by having an actual hard line run through the car, it looks alot nicer. I've had a search for polymer coated hardline but cant find any info on them?

I got the line from atec, its the 5mm aluminium one, I know tomotek used the same as well. IIRC it has a sightly smaller inner dimeter than the stainless steel version. Its a lot cheaper than the SS line as well.

Its very hard to find the stuff, unless you live in the states you may be able to find some of it. Its whats used on cars from the factory and imo looks way better than the copper or nickel line, has much better corrosion resistance too.

Where are you based?

 

[VenomUK]

I got the line from atec, its the 5mm aluminium one, I know tomotek used the same as well. IIRC it has a sightly smaller inner dimeter than the stainless steel version. Its a lot cheaper than the SS line as well.

Its very hard to find the stuff, unless you live in the states you may be able to find some of it. Its whats used on cars from the factory and imo looks way better than the copper or nickel line, has much better corrosion resistance too.

Where are you based?

I'm based in Gloucester.

Did you buy direct from Atec or did you find a distributor?

Yes, looking at his photos it looks more neater. My issue was with the braided option would be you'd have to mount it many time to reduce flex.

 

[Usr117063]

Direct from Atec, its pretty cheap but they have to cut it in to pieces 2m+1m due to postage, still good sizes, if you want uncut (3m) then it costs like 30-40 quid!

I know you can get it else where, from Krontec, I think thats who supply the stuff but they are from Germany. They also do 4.75mm version.