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Another cambelt thread omg
- Thread starter coxxy
- Start date
INA are a bearing/lifters and other metal work engine parts company and usually make the bearings in the gates kits too, as said there is 2 main belt companys that make the belts and either INA or SKF who make OEM tensioners perhaps a few more but INA make OEM for ford parts as i work at ford
ITB'd MK1
but you're still using the same thing in a different box now.....
DCi 100
Not really.
Look at it this way:
Who do you go to see about your health? A doctor right? But why? Who go you go to see about your finances? Your bank right? Why again? Who do you trust to buy meat from? A butcher yeah?
You trust all these I've mentioned because they deal with their respective products and services day in, day out. Their experienced and qualified.
Would you want to go to your butcher about your health and your bank for some meat? Hell no, that's comparable to taking your car to be fixed by your local joiner is it not?
What I'm getting at is. You would want the best possible for a lot of things in life, the best doctor, the best quality food, the best financial advice etc. But then why should your car be any different? Maybe you don't care about your car all that much. But I'm sure you do care about what's in your wallet very much.
Take the best you have available and you can't go wrong. A lot of people on here have enough about them to realise this first time round. Unfortunately for some they only realise once they've taken their 4 wheels else where and had then had to invest time and money to get the job done again. This is why people go to Fred.
ITB'd MK1
yeah and we still don't know why they rattled, i'm still blaming the cambelt tensioner, THE ONLY difference was the INA kit the tensioner lined up at 1 o'clock, powergrip they lined up at 11-12 o'clock
weird, but you have been warned, £4K i'm out of pocket there
oh I accept they were a faulty batch, but they were just that, a BATCH. I've fitted a contitech kit recently which had an INA tensioner kit in it, and it was perfect. Using mostly genuine at the moment anyway, and they do a full labour and repair warranty if there's an issue with parts. I use the best dealer in the area for sorting warranty too.
Changing the belts is not that hard if you're competent and follow the manual. PM me your e-mail and I'll send you the manual.
These cambelt threads are getting ridiculous!
These cambelt threads are getting ridiculous!
Clio T 314hp c43 AMG
I am a "pro mechanic" and I paid to have it done, stick to what you know, if you don't know f4r and it's timing/cambelt procedure don't touch it, o how I wish it was a k series
MicKPM
ClioSport Trader
Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
I'm here to run a business, try to provide a genuine service and not scare cash out of anyone... personally. I hate that aboutgeneral garages but sometimes the scare mongering is justified and I honestly believe the F4R timing belt service is one of them. I've just done a gorgeous petrol blue 182 today for a CS member who purchased the car from a large Ford/Kia group in the West Midlands and if they can get it wrong WITH the qualifications, manual and Renault tools to hand then a DIY enthusiast can do the same. I'm not against people doing it themselves... if they can do it right then great but the horror stories are there in plain sight for all to read so if you need your car, why would you purposefully try to fudge it up by being cavalier about it and "have a go"?
The trick, I find at least, is to not get complacent with the F4R and double check EVERYTHING. Today I managed to somehow get the inlet cam a whole 180 degrees out after re-sealing the top cover. It was just one of those unthinking moments that I saw before I started to re-time the top end but it shows how easy it can happen if you don't think about what you're doing. This is also why I write a build log for every car I do so I know what torque and angle I did each bolt according to the Tech Wrench because if its my fault an engine fails I'll hold my hand s up and pay to put it right but if its someone elses trying to be bumped on to my plate then I'm ready to defend my work.
Mick
The trick, I find at least, is to not get complacent with the F4R and double check EVERYTHING. Today I managed to somehow get the inlet cam a whole 180 degrees out after re-sealing the top cover. It was just one of those unthinking moments that I saw before I started to re-time the top end but it shows how easy it can happen if you don't think about what you're doing. This is also why I write a build log for every car I do so I know what torque and angle I did each bolt according to the Tech Wrench because if its my fault an engine fails I'll hold my hand s up and pay to put it right but if its someone elses trying to be bumped on to my plate then I'm ready to defend my work.
Mick
main problem in my opinion is people (be it mechanics, DIY'ers etc) "THINK" they've got it right as the car runs ok
I was driving a phs1 172 (the famous Fred overtook a lambo round the outside in the wet at Oulton park jobbie) turned out that phs1 172 only had 146bhp and i didn't really notice, on reflection i did have to try a bit harder LOL
I was driving a phs1 172 (the famous Fred overtook a lambo round the outside in the wet at Oulton park jobbie) turned out that phs1 172 only had 146bhp and i didn't really notice, on reflection i did have to try a bit harder LOL
Evo 5 RS
I am a "pro mechanic" and I paid to have it done, stick to what you know, if you don't know f4r and it's timing/cambelt procedure don't touch it, o how I wish it was a k series
I've said it before my mates a mechanic and Cosworth nut, and he openly admits he wouldn't want to time my Ph1 up - just as much as I wouldn't want him doing it. For what it could cost you in the long run if you want it done properly it's a no brainer!!!
My point is if people want to have a go we should support them, obviously with warnings of the difficulties.
Not subscribe to the thread to see when it goes wrong! Great community spirit guys.
Reading threads where it has gone wrong it is mostly when people start the job without doing any research about what it involves or give it to a garage without checking they know it is a little out of the ordinary.
Not subscribe to the thread to see when it goes wrong! Great community spirit guys.
Reading threads where it has gone wrong it is mostly when people start the job without doing any research about what it involves or give it to a garage without checking they know it is a little out of the ordinary.
ive pick up my parts from renault except the one tool which is coming from france. Ive had all the new cam and crank bolts too but in my bag of goodies there is two bolts which im assuming are 1 cam and 1 crank bolt, then ive got a small threaded stud and a nut separate. is the stud and nut for exhaust cam?
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Clio172 / Focus Ti X
what made me do this job myself (apart from feeling competent enough) is the fact that if i take it to a garage and they get it wrong, they may not accept liability if something goes wrong and try blame a seperate component on the engine. meaning your even more out of pocket to get it fixed and alot more stressed by arguing with them over the job
There is no "specialist" up my way (i got reffered to one guy who someone says they used on here)
The convo was
"can you do by cambelt service?"
"you mean chain?"
"No, the belt"
"Iv done plenty of these so i know best. seeing as your coming to me for it to get done so obviously your not aware, i know they are chains"
"Ok, can you phone renault and get me a quote on a cam chain kit?"
You can all imagine the outcome after that happened so i walked out and decided to do the job myself. The guy got fired from his job.
I found it relatively easy if you have the CORRECT tools and follow ALL the procedures that have been set out, like said above, there should be no room for complacency
Before someone else says though, the proof will be when i start her up and hope all is ok.
There is no "specialist" up my way (i got reffered to one guy who someone says they used on here)
The convo was
"can you do by cambelt service?"
"you mean chain?"
"No, the belt"
"Iv done plenty of these so i know best. seeing as your coming to me for it to get done so obviously your not aware, i know they are chains"
"Ok, can you phone renault and get me a quote on a cam chain kit?"
You can all imagine the outcome after that happened so i walked out and decided to do the job myself. The guy got fired from his job.
I found it relatively easy if you have the CORRECT tools and follow ALL the procedures that have been set out, like said above, there should be no room for complacency
Before someone else says though, the proof will be when i start her up and hope all is ok.
Yep, that'll be the banjo bolt for the dephaser pulley and dont forget to fit those new oil seals that come in the bag to
Inlet cam bolt = 100Nm, Inlet cam nut = 30Nm + 86 degrees (+/- 4 degrees).
The only oil seals ive got are the ones for the cams gearbox side
imprezaworks
ClioSport Club Member
Mk5 Golf GTI :)
When I bought my ph1 twelve months ago the timing belt had been done by a very well known company before I bought it. It was only when I got it mapped by Paul It was down on power and that the timing was out by a fair bit. If it was me I would take it to someone like birchdown to get piece of mind. But hey if it all works out good on you. Hope it does mate
Dan
Dan
Yeah seperate. Is it worth takin the bolts back and swaping for the kit or just get the seals
How do i torque the stud???Yep, that'll be the banjo bolt for the dephaser pulley and dont forget to fit those new oil seals that come in the bag to
Inlet cam bolt = 100Nm, Inlet cam nut = 30Nm + 86 degrees (+/- 4 degrees).
There is no stud to torque, the stud is factory fitted to the exhaust camshaft, you never touch that. Just torque the nut on the exhaust cam, and bolt on the inlet cam.
MicKPM
ClioSport Trader
Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
The stud is user changeable as its a stretch stud... works in the same way a stretch bolt does which is why we always check them for signs of tapering when the exhaust pulley is removed and replace if necesary. You will need a good stud extractor/insert set to put it in properly though or you can go to pikey method 'A' which is to use two nuts and turn the outer one until it reaches the end of the cam.
As for part numbers, the service kit is: 7701471629 and the crankshaft pulley bolt is: 8200557644
172, Tiguan
Clio T 314hp c43 AMG
Dont mean to offend but you could have had this done by now lol.
As much I am for people working on their owns cars and trying things for themselves, it doesnt add up to do it yourself. I'd like to think i'm competant enough to tackle most jobs but here is my main point when it comes to the f4r. To do it yourself, your are going to be spendiing over £400, buying tools and parts. Spend a fraction more and have a specialist do it and you get it done for you and you have a come back (and obv safe knowledge of it being done correctly). Its a lot of pain in the arse to save a little amount of money.
I payed Renault to do it because I didnt want to travel as the car was 2 years overdue the belt or I would have been happy to part with my cash at any of the specialists.
I payed Renault to do it because I didnt want to travel as the car was 2 years overdue the belt or I would have been happy to part with my cash at any of the specialists.
davo172
ClioSport Club Member
TCR'd 172
This is bang on no point risking it for the small amount of money you save and having all the hassle, presuming it runs right afterwards and dosent go bang ! leave it to the pros .
AFAIK Renault don't undo the cam pulley bolts for a simple cambelt job.
So they will have needed only one tool to do your car. Since they will not have undone the cam pulleys the laser tool would have been fine for holding the cams in position as no force goes through it unless you undo the cam pulleys.
So that would have been only 40 quid on tools for your job.
