Another geometry setup thread!

[Rob G]

I am currently running the below settings on my clio:

I am planning on fitting some hub spacers in the not too distant future and was wondering wether it would be worth adding any more camber and correcting the toe whilst I'm at it.

The car is used for fast road driving and the occasional trackday so nothing too extreme required! What would your suggestions be based on what I already have to work with?

 

[Rob G]

Been doing a bit more research and it seems 1mm toe out total on the rear is preferable. In reality am I going to notice the difference on the road by correcting the NSR toe to bring it in line with the OSR? Also camber wise again will there be any real world difference bringing the OSR to match NSR?
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[MG cup]

Camber no, alignment yes. Fronts and back alignment is a good bit off tbh. Correct the front first and see how it goes, I run parallel on the front myself.

 

[Rob G]

Last time I use f1 auto centres for geo then! Haha. Time to get the axle stands and fishing line out!!

 

[PNichols]

Just had mine done, went with neg camber on front at -2 ish, toeing out by 8 minutes, rears were slighly different either side, yet to work out why but between 1 and 2 degree camber with slight toe in

 

[PNichols]

Last time I use f1 auto centres for geo then! Haha. Time to get the axle stands and fishing line out!!

Just noticed you're in Bedford, me too

 

[Rob G]

Good times! Where abouts did you go for setup, and how much was it if you don't mind me asking!

 

[NorthloopCup]

rears were slighly different either side, yet to work out why but between 1 and 2 degree camber

They're all slightly out mate tbh. Check your rear wheel bearings have no play as well, as this can give false readings if they have play.

Been doing a bit more research and it seems 1mm toe out total on the rear is preferable.​

If you run toe out at the rear remember it WILL try and swap ends. You'll get a fair amount of lift off oversteer as well mate. For fast road I'd stick with toe in on the rear tbh. I'd run parallel at the very most.

 

[Rob G]

Cheers for the info mate! Bearings should be fine as I changed discs and bearings earlier in the year!

 

[NorthloopCup]

Cheers for the info mate! Bearings should be fine as I changed discs and bearings earlier in the year!

No worries mate! If you have anymore questions, fire away.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Rear beams are made of chocolate, they will all vary to some degree.

 

[PNichols]

Rear beams are made of chocolate, they will all vary to some degree.

Ok so I shouldnt worry too much then ? it wasn't miles out anyway

 

[Rob G]

So going to have a play at the weekend....will be setting camber to 1.5-2 degrees with 5 mins toe out. This sound ok?

Will measure the rear toe aswel and report back. Looks like fingers crossed the camber should be fine as its in tolerance! May fit some shims to get the rear parrallel when I do the hub spacers.

This all sound like a good starting point? Spec is eibach sportlines, RARB and standard shocks for reference.

 

[PNichols]

They're all slightly out mate tbh. Check your rear wheel bearings have no play as well, as this can give false readings if they have play.



If you run toe out at the rear remember it WILL try and swap ends. You'll get a fair amount of lift off oversteer as well mate. For fast road I'd stick with toe in on the rear tbh. I'd run parallel at the very most.

Cheers mate, It was a bit concerning at forst as I had just changed the stub axles and added 15mm hub spacers with some camber, wasn't sure if they were machined perfectly ?, discs and bearings just changed too, I wont worry too much unless its noticeable whilst on track

 

[PNichols]

Good times! Where abouts did you go for setup, and how much was it if you don't mind me asking!

A mate of mine works in the trade and has a Hunter alignment machine and ramp, so he did it for me

 

[NorthloopCup]

I had just changed the stub axles and added 15mm hub spacers with some camber, wasn't sure if they were machined perfectly ?

It's where the stub axles usually mount on the axle that will be out mate. You may even find your rear axle is slightly bent, but that's the worst case scenario of course.

 

[Tony Hunter]

I had to buy two different size shims to get mine the same both sides, it was a lot of messing about, but got there in the end.

 

[PNichols]

It's where the stub axles usually mount on the axle that will be out mate. You may even find your rear axle is slightly bent, but that's the worst case scenario of course.

ahhhh ok !

 

[Rob G]

Anyone do shims smaller than 10' worked out my rear toe and one side is equal to 7' toe out and the other 3.5' so my thinking would be a 5' one side and 10' the other to toe the rear wheels in. Or will the 3.5' diff side to side be negligible once I've got some toe in?

 

[rdoxenham]

I had to buy two different size shims to get mine the same both sides, it was a lot of messing about, but got there in the end.

Did you use more than one shim per side? I don't see why it would be impossible, but whether or not it's safe is another... would appreciate peoples comments!

 

[Tony Hunter]

Yes, I have shims for camber, and another shim for toe.