Aux tensioner top bolt sheared

[Commie VID]

Hi again,
Second day of this odyssey, and I'm getting almost to a point where I can actually start looking at the timing belt. The crank pulley and lower timing belt covers are the only obstacles in that regard. I'm ignoring the elephant in the room of the water pump. Access really is tight!
I'm not sure whether I did it or it was like this before, but the top bolt for the aux tensioner has sheared, leaving a bit in the bracket. It looks like the bracket for the power steering pump, once I took off the top bracket.
I'll probably just drill the remains and helicoil it, which I think should be sufficient, given the alternative is a replacement bracket, which looks like removing the pump would be necessary. I'm not sure if the pump can be left without upsetting the hoses, so don't want to go down that route.
I'm guessing the bolt is an M8, hoping so. Is there any particular reason to use the E12 bolt, or could I just use any old M8 bolt? If not, does anyone have the part number to hand?
No worries if not, I'll have to fire up the Windows machine to find out.

 

[da rok]

as long as the threads are the same pitch, you could run a normal bolt...

 

[Budgie]

Yep, i always swap for a hex bolt when i put them back.

Re: bracket. If it's a std Ph1 bracket, then it comes off without the PAS pump needing to be touched. Few bolts into the lower inlet. One awkward 16mm by the upper engine mount, aux tensioner(which is done already) and a nut and bolt onto the top of the Alternator..

 

[Commie VID]

It's a Ph2 bracket.
So it is just an M8 bolt? Length?

 

[coverman]

I would only use a high grade bolt, not something from a DIY shed, because failure can/will result in cambelt disturbance with catastrophic results

 

[Commie VID]

Well yeah of course, but what size?

 

[Commie VID]

Ok, whipped out the Dialogys. It looks like the part number is 77 03 002 949. This is a flanged hex head bolt rather than an E12, and some images online suggest that too. Even looking at my replacement aux tensioner, there is now a hex head bolt instread of a E12, so must have changed for convenience.
The bolt I have appears to say 10.9 on it, but the bolt on the aux tensioner says 8.8, so not sure whether 10.9 is unnecessary.

 

[flebay]

Model
name engineNo engine options model manufactured complectation
7700864098 SUP AIR CND COMPR 1
7703002190 SCRWEW M10X150-65 2
7703002697 SCRW M10X 3
7700114754 STRNG PUMP BRKT 4
7703002949 FLGD HEX HEAD SCRE 5
8200139054 ROD-TIE ALTRNTR 6
7703002854 SCRW M10X 7
8200139051 ALTERNAT SUPT 8
7703035041 FLANGED HEX NUT M8 9
7703002949 FLGD HEX HEAD SCRE 10
7703602241 SCRW RDL 11
7703101545 HEX HD SCR W/WAS M 12
7700114742 BELT TENSIONER 13
7703002710 FLGD HEX HD SCREW 14 (X) dimension = 60
7703002697 SCRW M10X 15

Its not on the diagram I tried to get one from Renault you will have to measure the old one

• New Genuine Catalogs

 

[flebay]

Number Name Code note
8200226493 RIBBED BELT 1 Special feature?; No special feature
8660001511 COURROIE ALTERNAT 1 Special feature?; Motrio alternative offer for Renault vehicles over 5 years old and Dacia vehicles over 3 years old = Yes
8660001578 GALET TENDEUR 2 Special feature?; Motrio alternative offer for Renault vehicles over 5 years old and Dacia vehicles over 3 years old = Yes
8200429703 TENSIONER-DYNAMIC 2 Special feature?; No special feature
8671019888 GALET ACCESSOIRES 3 Special feature?; Motrio alternative offer for Renault vehicles over 5 years old and Dacia vehicles over 3 years old = Yes
8200065479 PULLEY 3 Special feature?; No special feature
7703002949 FLGD HEX HEAD SCRE 4
7703002419 SCRW 5
7703053934 PLAIN WASHER 8.2X2 6
7701477519 BELT ACCESS KIT 7

 

[Commie VID]

Is it not that one in the first diagram, no. 5, 7703002949? As it seems to go into the power steering bracket on the end?

 

[flebay]

Is it not that one in the first diagram, no. 5, 7703002949? As it seems to go into the power steering bracket on the end?

 

[Commie VID]

Just spent the last three and a half hours taking ogg the water pump. I officially hate this car. Once this is all done, I will go and wrap it around a tree. Never getting a Renault ever again.
How come none of the guides around mention that the water pump pulley doesn't really come out, not without some crazy bending and rotating of the water pump itself? No amount of raising or lowering the engine gives enough clearance, and thank god I have no gas in the air con, because that means I can remove the compressor and condenser and radiator out of the way and it's still tight.
Oh and of course, there had to be 9 bolts for the water pump, and they had to be stupid E8 bolts, of which the last one had to turn into cheese. So out comes the Dremel, to grind it away before the pump can be freed.
So I'm left with this:

These aren't M6 nor M8 bolts, which either suggests they're M7 or some completely different size. So ditching these for standard hex heads still isn't an easy option. I still haven't removed the bottom cover yet. I'll be spending the weekend on this one stud, and then probably the cam seals on the end so I can start thinking about doing the actual damn cam belt.
I changed the cam belt on a 1.5 diesel Nissan Note, that also has the Renault K9K engine. That was bloody frustrating too. Never touching a Renault again.

 

[Mike@Rentech]

nut and bolt, thats what everyone else seems to do when they f**k them up, it works as well.

 

[Commie VID]

Ok, calmed down a bit after a rest, back to the warzone.
I will go to Halfords and pick up some M7 nuts, and attempt the two nut trick to try and free that stud. Looks like they are M7 x 25 bolts, so will just go on the internet to get some. Does anyone if these are the same bolts for the sump pan? Planning ahead, as I can't tell if the sump is leaking.
Got the belt off, but amusingly:

Now, I'm not using the genuine camshaft timing tool (a U.S. Pro one), but even so, looks like the timing is off. Don't worry, I have the genuine Renault pulley locking tool. I discover now that you can buy the complete genuine set, I should have waited rather than think that Renault weren't making them anymore (they were out of stock when I was preparing for all this).
Looks like the actual process of changing the belt doesn't look super tough:

It was really getting to this stage, and reversing it all, that is proving to be the nightmare.
There's oil stains everywhere, but these could be years old, so no idea where it's coming from. Bloody cars.

 

[Commie VID]

Hi all.
I have the belt on and initial tension set. The manual says to rotate six revolutions, presumably to let the belt settle in?
Maybe it's obvious, but I should take the TDC pin out to do this? I would guess the pistons would move, but the camshafts are still set by the camshaft tool, so no valves will be hit? Is that correct?

 

[bloke]

leave the cams locked and just turn the belt, as all the pulleys are floating nothing will move.

 

[Commie VID]

Yes, you are right, the pulleys are meant to be floating. Just that the crankshaft one wasn't. So had to take the belt off and get a pry bar on the teeth of the bottom pulley and it slowly came free.
Looks like there was residue of what looks like red loctite around the inside of that pulley. Cleaned as best as I could, back on and spins freely, so now all nice and tensioned up. Just need to get a new crankshaft pulley bolt.
Need some gasket remover, as the water pump gasket is really really stuck on there.

 

[Budgie]

Can you not get a Stanley blade down there to clean up the old gasket?

 

[Commie VID]

No choice but to do that, just a little tight, but elbow grease is the only answer.

 

[bloke]

get a decent scraper on it.

 

[Commie VID]

Wow, this is a disaster diary.
Cambelt is in, seems to be timed correctly, fingers crossed. Knowing my luck it'll blow itself up on first start.
Gasket remover didn't do anything, so no choice but to get at it with a scraper and elbow grease. Will get a better one. The gasket remover looks useful to ensure its clean once most of it is gone. I've gotten about half of it off just using the edge of a chisel. It's on there good, banged my hands, arms and head a few times.
Decided to sort out the engine mounts as a way of staving off the boredom. Got the bottom gearbox one in place, but had a complete disaster with the top one:

The bolts for one of the brackets that attaches to the gearbox. Two bolts came out with no drama, but this one was unbelievably solid, a breaker bar and pipe on that got it to move a few degrees before it snapped. Nothing has worked. Got a couple of nuts to try and lock them to undo the remaining (same as for the sheared water pump bolt), ended up stripping the threads on the nuts!
In a rage, just got the dremel out, cut a horizontal slot to try the chisel and hammer method in attempt to undo it. Not budging. Then cut the damn thing off, cut a slot in the middle, and attempted an impact driver. Not budging. Have now decided to cut if off flush and drill it. Which is where I am at, because I have this feeling this bolt is not going to go without a fight. I have no idea why this one is stuck so solid.
More drill bits, probably a helicoil kit just in case. I am really falling out of love with this car.