I'd like to see that shootout done again at Surrey Rolling Road, Powerstation figures are always high, and their losses are complete fiction. They're always roughly 10% high in my experience
I'd like to see that shootout done again at Surrey Rolling Road, Powerstation figures are always high, and their losses are complete fiction. They're always roughly 10% high in my experience
Will post pic of the graphs later, but the 3 overlayed all look very similar.
What knowone has mentioned yet is the amount of boost they were making.... Lol. Let's just say mine may last longer ha.
Twin turbo Audi RS6 aren't that quick it turns out
Mine made 145bhp @0.43bar
Adey's made 178bhp @0.65bar
MSO's made 168bhp @0.??bar
So all in all, not a shootout as opposed to working out what boost levels make what. And on the road, 33bhp didn't make alot of difference, not enough for me to increase it until I'm ready for 330+. Glad today happened tbh
Video to come, a mate had his HD camera with him
I'd like to see that shootout done again at Surrey Rolling Road, Powerstation figures are always high, and their losses are complete fiction. They're always roughly 10% high in my experience
From the looks of things Bombers car has made pretty identical figures on both!
I've added up my total bills this evening, less that I thourght actually...
Under £3800 Inc cambelt and mapping, sensors and tubing. Could of saved about £100 in wasted samco and other bits
Like i said before well done for doing it yourself but for me I paid £4200 to get it done dropped it off picked it up 1week later job done if it breaks they fix it, I took the easy way!!!
Interesting past few pages, awesome bumface.
It's like I said before I wouldn't know where to start on something like this so I have no choice but to pay someone to Do it for me. Ktec have a done a bloody good job on my car so I have no problems in paying out the money, another 4 grand would see around 380 bhp which would be bloody mental but it might be to much 300 bhp I think would be fine nice useable power and hopefully reliable.See half the fun is in the build for me, then pushing my build to it's limits is a good laugh. If it let's go it'll get a new build with low comp pistons and such, I don't like just giving money away especially if it can be done for next to nothing, I think u said another 4-5 k for a low comp build Mso? I could build it myself for the cost of parts alone
See half the fun is in the build for me, then pushing my build to it's limits is a good laugh. If it let's go it'll get a new build with low comp pistons and such, I don't like just giving money away especially if it can be done for next to nothing, I think u said another 4-5 k for a low comp build Mso? I could build it myself for the cost of parts alone
An interesting read over the last couple of pages....
I think your overlooking something crucial though mate, could the lower output be caused by belt slip??!
I've given tuners too much money in my 9 years of playing with cars, was about time to do the whole thing myself
Well yours seems to read about 5% up on SRR also. I know i've said it before, but it's time and again that the Superflow (f**king awesome piece of kit that it is) gives higher numbers. I'm not saying which is correct either way.....just that there's a consistent difference
Ours is a bit different though as we have a Froude 201 engine dyno to compare it against, the fly compensations we've written for our chassis dyno match the engine dyno results as accurately as is possible when measuring through two rubber bands. Generally the chassis dyno is within 1 ftlb of what the engine dyno reckons for the Duratec, 2ZZ and F4R engines I've tested on both. We're in quite a unique position as we're one of the few companies in the UK to have a true OEM grade engine dyno (i.e. Cadet control etc.) and a decent chassis dyno in the same place.
One of the reasons DD chassis dynos and others differ is the ATMC correction factor applied by DD roads vs SAE correction applied by most others. This can cause differences, it doesn't mean either are more/less correct than the other - just that the correction factor applied has resulted in differences in the corrected figure..... there's not really a way around that as without correction factors we're all f**ked and it's the reason our crate engine books have three pages at the front concerning correction factors It's impossible to say a chassis or engine dyno reads high/low/correct without also knowing what correction factor has been applied to the raw figures recorded. A DD road will do SAE correction on wheel power and when we back to back'd a couple of cars on our old DD 2WD and our current Superflow with SAEJ1995 correction factor the difference was tolerance only. We have to correct to SAE really so our engine packages can be directly compared to those provided by Cosworth, Minister, CPT etc.
There's a really good SAE paper on correction factors BTW if you're bored and fancy a read