Brake fluid change...

[Da]

Now i have the new fluid, I have the Eezibleed kit, new pads are fitted and new lines are waiting to be fitted.

So, I want to change the brake fluid for new, I understand the bleed system but how would I go about ensuring I removed all the old fluid and wasn't simply bleeding out the new?

 

[Henry]

i just use a large syringe (chemists) to take most of the old fluid out of the the res before filling it back up with new. it's not all that easy to tell when the new fluid's being pulled through (unless you use a different coloured brake fluid - eg. ATE Blue) - just need to give it a good few seconds at each wheel with the Easibleed until you're getting good, clean fluid, free of any air bubbles coming through

ed. from your last point, if you're bleeding out the new, you'll have passed all the old through the bleed nipple anyway

 

[Da]

Thanks for the advice Henry.

Having read into things a little further I'm lead to believe the system only holds 0.5 litre of fluid, is this correct?

I have 2 litres at the ready as I thought it held around 1?

 

[Henry]

i did the same - bought 2L just incase, as i thought it held 1L. mine bled through at about 0.5L, but it's a Cup and i'm guessing there's some extra capacity in the ABS gubbins on the other cars (?). should be fine with what you've got anyway - Easibleed method is v efficient at minimising fluid loss

ed. i'm sure you're already aware, but don't allow the system to run dry, otherwise you'll apparently create an airlock in the ABS pump, which needs sorting at a dealer

 

[Da]

Well they are all listed the same Henry - 172/182/Cup/Trophy all say 0.5L of fluid.

Either way, with 2L I should have plenty then, thanks once again.

 

[Henry]

no bother

 

[Tigger]

I'm doing this soon too (Dear God, help us!)

Does it add any further complications if you are replacing a brake pipe when fitting your braided lines?

 

[Da]

I wouldn't have thought so no mate, I guess you'll just lose more of the original fluid. If you're doing a change anyway then this shouldn't matter.

 

[Munson]

It's soon pretty obvious when the new fluid is coming through the nipple. I changed my original stuff on Monday, and it was dark brown. There will be some mixing, and some old fluid in the system, but as long as you bleed it all through, you'll have mostly all new fluid. I got through ~750ml when I changed my hoses and fluid. I was quite worried by the whole prospect of it, but it was a piece of piss in the end. Mind you, it helped having a pit for working on the rear

NB: The first wheel will take the longest. The others are quite quick after that.

 

[Da]

Thanks for the info Roy

Am I correct in thinking the bleed sequence is N/S rear, O/S rear, N/S front, O/S front?

 

[Munson]

I don't think it really matters TBH. I just did NSF - OSF - NSR - OSR.

EDIT: Make sure you check the run of the front hoses is ok on full lock in either direction.

 

[Da]

Yeah had read that previously Roy, about the hoses, but thanks once again

 

[Munson]

No worries. I know what I was like before I did mine

Also, it's a good idea to have a bowl of hot soapy water handy, and lots and lots of newspaper. I put newspaper over the lower suspension arm to protect the paint, and then used the soapy water and a sponge to clean down any spillages. You'll get some fluid over the body, near the bracket for starters. Plus, your hands will be covered in the stuff so you'll want to wash those

 

[Henry]

as Roy, the order shouldn't make any difference

i think it's NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF in the manual; logic presumably being that you start with the wheel furthest the m/c, then move on to the other in that circuit (diagonally split system), then the next furthest from m/c, ..

shouldn't make any odds though

 

[Da]

Cheers chaps, will make sure I have plenty of soapy water and newspaper to hand then!

Can't wait to get the lines done now!