brake, problem or no problem

[Craggy]

had my rally pads, 5.1 fluid, braided hosres and group n discs fitted today, went out with the intent on bedding em in slowly and after only a few miles found myself having to dive on em from 80mph and they didnt work......at all!, this wasnt helped by having 4 people in the car either. so do you rekon i could of damaged them or owt or do they

a) need bedding in b4 they work(ie 50 miles)

b) need to be warm b4 they work(rally pads, have been told reliably to go for these pads)

c) a combination of both.

lastly again, could i have knackered them or am i worryin for nowt and just need to do any/all the above?

craggy

 

[Ben j]

na new brakes are always sh*tter till they wear in properly, just be careful till u notice them working good.

 

[Craggy]

hi ben, hows it goin? motor ok?, dont spose youve got an orginal wiily wheel have ya? mine cureently has 1 replica since i trashed the other one and it does my ed in although no-one else notices, i do!

craggy

 

[Ben j]

na but i got a spare replica. i just put oz super ls on now. its going in monday to get its geometry set up, then its just a bit of body work!!! woohoo end in site!!!!

 

[Craggy]

anyone else wanna confirm this to reassure me some more/or not!

 

[DAVE77]

Hi Craggy, How you doing mate?
Rally pads usually need a higher temp to work properly, but with you having new discs and pads, you should bed them in a bit before hammering it.
Dave

 

[Craggy]

cheers dave, im sound mate, you?, did you get your big brakes sorted out?, just alately iv gone to brake freak not a power freak after some discussion with my lotus driving friend!.

craggy

 

[BenR]

if they really are group n discs (where did you buy them from? raldes?) then there slightly soft and heatup quicker. The rally pads (band and spec?) are harder and need heat to work, but from 80mph they should!!
they dont take that long to wear in although some say up to 100-200miles!!

so just take it easy and see how it goes.

 

[Craggy]

they are rally design group n discs, and tarox rally pads mate.

craggy

 

[Craggy]

i must say, the bite seems to be improving but im not sure when i can give them a real pounding?, maybe drive around for a few miles braking and stuff then speed up and jump on the things to see how good they are??, after all, that is what there for isnt it??

craggy

 

[Simon172]

Craggy - try driving along for a while at a moderately slow speed with your right foot on the accelerator and your left foot on the brake (lightly) to bed them in quicker?

 

[Captain Slarty]

Hi Craggy, Simon is correct.. dont overdo it though lol

They should be fine at 100 miles.. we used to bed pads in for the night rallies on the way to the event, sometimes only 10-25 miles.

If there is no improvement soon, take a pad out and look at the wear area (u will see where the pad is working on the disc by the smoothness of the compound face.

sometimes the calliper / disc can be offset and need a far longer time to bed in.

Joe

 

[Nick Read]

Thats a bummer. And also why I use Ferodo DS2000. Bedding in is a thing of the past for me now.

Maybe youve glazed them over already? Really you should have a look at the pads to be sure.

 

[Captain Slarty]

hey Nick..

bloody good choice..

Joe

 

[Captain Slarty]

for anyone interested...

a Captn S. pad 101 lol

the theory says that the rally pad should, even if it becomes glazed, be skimmed by the grooves..

the pad wont give of heat (or as much heat) once glazed, so the groves are actually breaking the surface glaze down (as the pad is pressed with more force towards the disk,,,)

as the glaze dissapears, the friction material is left.. this causes.. as the name implies.. friction causing a retardation... the friction causes heat.. the heat causes gassing.. the gassing is the cause of the boundry layer that can, under increased pressure, cause glazing (polishing).. but the grovves in the disc allow the gasses to escape increasing actual friction and retardation.

ok, I will go back to my beer lol.

Joe

 

[Craggy]

in laymens terms please joe!

just been out testing, brakes are sh*t, squeel like fuk all the time and start burning and smelling really bad after jumpin on em twice?, what do you reckon i should do next eh???

 

[Matbrown]

Get some EBCs

Mat.

 

[DAVE77]

Yeah Im fine mate. Never got the big brake conversion, still toying with the idea of some nice big 4pots and bell houses.
Keep whuppin ass for all the clio owners in the world.

 

[Captain Slarty]

Hi Craggy..



sounds like you need to bed them in more.. me thinks they sold you a pup old boy ???


look at the pads ??.. take them out.. how much of the surface of the pad shows wear ?.. this is a good indication of pad / caliper line-up..

also, sorry dood, but never, ever, ever, buy group n stuff...

group n was the almost standard class and mods were limited... it usually meanswhat can be achieved within the constraints of the regs not waht can be achieved on this chassis

sorry to be the bearer of ill tidings.. but...

practical solution follows lol

if they aint bedded in after 100 miles.. smack em in the mouth.. ok, well... maybe send them back and DEMAND a refund as they are not suitable for the purpose... you dont have the luxury of bedding in rally pads...

speak to Nick Hill for TAROX discs, get the red pads if poss, otherwise use bog standard..

note.... a boggo pad is bloody excellent on a super vented (Gaseous not cooling) disc.... (as in tarox)

sound like you NEED to re- err - obtain - yer dosh from them n start again..

I can get yer a set of 172 struts, calipers and disks for about 300 complete. may well be better...

Joe - dissapointed in the crap some tuners sell or palm off to us joe public types....

 

[BenR]

Tarox!!!! What a waste of money (although youll probebly say you cant spend enough on brakes (true to an extent) but not when they dost 150 quid for fronts!!)

I hate (ok maybe not hate) Tarox and there not much better than OE and other performance (and by that i mean not EBC, Red Dot, etc) discs.....but for double the money!

capt, im using maxtorque softer discs with mintex 1144 pads and they work superb! Both on my clio RT with 16V brake setup and on the XR2....which has spend hrs on the track and never faded or felt overwhelmed.

this probably led craggy to buy some as ive always recommended them highly.

true, you can get better as groupn is showroom spec esentially, but there a tad better than OE....and for 50 quid
!! B&Q value me thinks!

 

[rockport]

CRAGGY!!!

i got the same worry M8, i have just fitted some Tarox G88s with some DS2000 PADS!!!

At first they felt really crap.. 200miles later.. they feel ... less crap. Not really the anchor power i was hoping for.. tho i have been taking it easy... ill give it another 100miles before a start slamming the brakes.. if no improvment, me not sure what to do?!

ill keep ya posted!!

 

[Craggy]

im not sure either mate, its quite a let down to say i spent over 200 quid of my hard earned on what was supposed to be good, and tbh, thery are sh*t, fade way too much and start smokin straight away.

crap int it mate. not sure wed get very far sendin em back tho

craggy

 

[TinTin]

Craggy,
I changed the standard discs and pads for EBC groved and red pads, probally not the best choice but sounded good at the time. I had exactly the same prob and to a degree still do. My prob is that at tick over i have no vacum, this is due to running with no idle valve, which is hard to understand as the standards wernt that bad. (Just a thought!)

Hope u get it sorted as it is a lot of money to spend.

Good luck

 

[BRUN]

hey Ben ive got Tarox, and there a million times better than OE stuff

ive got the rally pads so they do need warmin up a bit but there still better than OE from cold

 

[DAVE77]

So whats the best pad/disc combination then??????????????

 

[BenR]

i dont get it!
mine work so well!
ive had them up to glowing red hot!(literally!), but thats with a bit of provication.

hmmm, just dont understand. i got maxtorque with 1144 pads...fab stuff.