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Burpspeed Version 2: Race Car Build
- Thread starter Jay Payne
- Start date
172 Race Car
Saturday 5th December 2009
The clock and radio display has been replaced with big, bright red warning lights. We will use them for oil and alternator warning. Were using a Trail Tech Vapor dashboard display for speed, engine temperature and revs. These are normally fitted to off road bikes and its a very compact unit. Fitted to the steering column cowling should make it easy to see. We also have a surround for extra warning lights.
The clock and radio display has been replaced with big, bright red warning lights. We will use them for oil and alternator warning. Were using a Trail Tech Vapor dashboard display for speed, engine temperature and revs. These are normally fitted to off road bikes and its a very compact unit. Fitted to the steering column cowling should make it easy to see. We also have a surround for extra warning lights.
182cup & 172 racecar
I can't see what's on it,but as long as it flashes at the right times I'll be ok lol.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
awesome again, when i am driving again i will pop and visit
M
mini-valver
Proper Jay! Cant wait to see it finished 
Im making my own loom ATM just for the lights, wipers, indicators, clocks and starting/charging system. What guage cable are you using? I initially planned to use as much of the original loom as I could for the things I needed to run but Im not sure it'll a) Have enough rating to carry the ampage of things b) look very good.
What wiring diagrams are you using? I can only find basic ones for indicators and hazards (things I need a relay for) but they're proper crude, lol.
Im making my own loom ATM just for the lights, wipers, indicators, clocks and starting/charging system. What guage cable are you using? I initially planned to use as much of the original loom as I could for the things I needed to run but Im not sure it'll a) Have enough rating to carry the ampage of things b) look very good.
What wiring diagrams are you using? I can only find basic ones for indicators and hazards (things I need a relay for) but they're proper crude, lol.
182cup & 172 racecar
Now its got to wiring I just sit and pass him bits of wire because I just dont understand any of it.
Hes done a good job so far,bless him.
Just taken me all afternoon to get the exhaust to fit,not easy on your own
Hes done a good job so far,bless him.
Just taken me all afternoon to get the exhaust to fit,not easy on your own
Now its got to wiring I just sit and pass him bits of wire because I just dont understand any of it.
Hes done a good job so far,bless him.
Just taken me all afternoon to get the exhaust to fit,not easy on your own
Next time you need a hand mate let me know and I'll pop up.
M
mini-valver
Thats what I've decided to do! Could do with a half decent indicator and hazard diagram. Not using Renault stalks either.
When you say 2mm for everything else.....Whats everything else? lol
Stu- There is yeah but everything runs through the UCH and its all spacky CANbus so is completely irrelevant for what im doing
When you say 2mm for everything else.....Whats everything else? lol
Stu- There is yeah but everything runs through the UCH and its all spacky CANbus so is completely irrelevant for what im doing
TTRS & V50
Wow, Top stuff.
172 Race Car
PM sent wih diagram.
using 2mm for fuel pumps, wipers, blower, coil power, injector power (then splits into 4x1mm to feed them) alternator IND, starter trigger, etc All the high powered stuff.
Icuras said you can get away with 1.5mm wire but they only did 5 colours.
I dont think i need to but im using 3mm for the cooling fan
182cup & 172 racecar
See what I mean,he's lost me again already.:S
M
mini-valver
Retaining the Renault ECU?
182cup & 172 racecar
No Dave,we are using a Tour de Force EC1 ECU with full calibration software and all that shizz.
M
mini-valver
I thought as much, but Jay mentioned running loom to the injectors and coil pack?! Does the EC1 not supply them itself with a dedicated loom?
Sorry if Im just adding confusion
Sorry if Im just adding confusion
182cup & 172 racecar
No,we are running our own loom in the engine compartment so the whole lot can be lifted out in one.But if you were to speak to Matt(Icarus) the options are never ending.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
its the future
M
mini-valver
Surely you're still going to need an EC1 loom of sorts though so you could put a twist connector between the ECU and the engine loom so you can lift the engine and loom out as one?
182cup & 172 racecar
Maybe I misunderstood your first question,we have the pin out plug to run our own wires to Matts diagram.
I dont want to get myself in too deep here cos techno I dont do lol.
I dont want to get myself in too deep here cos techno I dont do lol.
M
mini-valver
Ahhhh, now it makes sense, lol! I thought you were planning on running half an EC1 loom and half your own
182cup & 172 racecar
Did I get it wrong
M
mini-valver
On it now Jay, cheers!
You didn't get it wrong Tony, I just didn't know you were making a loom for the ECU too as a pose to buying a pre-built engine loom then banging a connector in!
You didn't get it wrong Tony, I just didn't know you were making a loom for the ECU too as a pose to buying a pre-built engine loom then banging a connector in!
172 Race Car
Sunday 6th December 2009 - Paint complete
Tony has been busy this weekend but now all the paint work is done. I had to work this weekend so he had to do it all himself. The whole thing was rubbed down on friday night and them masked up. The first coat of primer went on early Saturday morning. Then the white later in the day.
Monday 7th December 2009 - Rain Light
To meet the regulations we have to have a bright red LED rain light to use in wet conditions. A few ideas on where to mount it were discussed but most cars we've seen run them inside the car. A bracket had to be made to mount it to the roof just inside the boot. First bolted together to get the correct angle, then when we were happy it was welded in position. The bracket given a coat of white paint and the rain light bolted to it. Then finally attached to the car.
Another small job was to mount the new fuse and relay box inside the glovebox. The back had to be cut out to make it easier to get the wires into. The fuse/relay box dropped nicely into some slots cut in the base and bolted to the top to secure.
Tuesday 8th December 2009 - Loom Building
Now that the car is painted we felt the time as right to get the front screen replaced. It was cracked when we bought the shell. A local firm, Wizard Windscreens came out bright and early to fit one for us. Its so clean and clear.
We started with a massive box of wire with many, many different colours and lengths. These had been worked out over many late nights to make sure we had all we needed. As with all best made plans, we didn't. The rear of the car was a good a place to start as any. After fitting the nearside rear light, the loom began to take shape. A brake light and indicator is all that was needed so a grand total of 2 wires was carefully wrapped in loom tape and secured along the back panel towards the off side rear light.
Once at the offside light a 3rd and 4th wire were added. One for the indicator on that side and another for the rain light. The rain light wire routed up the 'C' pillar along with a brake feed for the centre brake light on the tailgate. Again loom taped and 'P' clipped neatly into place.
It was taking forever, but was turning out better than we had expected. A fuel pump feed and earth were fed into the spare wheel well and taped into the loom, as well as a feed for the stock, in tank pump. (We are running a second fuel pump and swirl pot, more on that in a later update) The loom then ran along the drivers sill and towards the offside front footwell.
We were up to the dash now so the brake light wire had to be connected to the pedal switch. The lower steering column cover was then fitted and had to be modified to fit. As we are using phase 2 covers on a phase 1 column, none of the screw holes lined up. The reason we swapped them is the fact that the top cover just clips to the lower cover, rather than screwed in place on the phase 1 version. It makes it easier to mount the display and make changes.
The bundle of loom was starting to get bigger at this point, as we added in the wires to run the dash display and indicator relay. Any joins that had to be made were done using heat-shrink butt connectors. These are crimped as normal using an appropriate crimping tool, then heated with a hot air gun so they shrink down around the wire. They also release some glue when heated to make a very solid and secure, waterproof joint.
While I concentrated on getting the dash display and indicators working properly, Tony finished off the battery installation. A cable was feed from the cut out relay, along the passenger floor and through the bulkhead to the mega fuse holder in the engine bay.
Cutout switches were then fitted to the nearside scuttle panel (outside) and to the offside lower dash (inside) These control the cutout relay. We are also using them as a main ignition switch. That was it for today. 10 hours with wires was enough
Tony has been busy this weekend but now all the paint work is done. I had to work this weekend so he had to do it all himself. The whole thing was rubbed down on friday night and them masked up. The first coat of primer went on early Saturday morning. Then the white later in the day.
Monday 7th December 2009 - Rain Light
To meet the regulations we have to have a bright red LED rain light to use in wet conditions. A few ideas on where to mount it were discussed but most cars we've seen run them inside the car. A bracket had to be made to mount it to the roof just inside the boot. First bolted together to get the correct angle, then when we were happy it was welded in position. The bracket given a coat of white paint and the rain light bolted to it. Then finally attached to the car.
Another small job was to mount the new fuse and relay box inside the glovebox. The back had to be cut out to make it easier to get the wires into. The fuse/relay box dropped nicely into some slots cut in the base and bolted to the top to secure.
Tuesday 8th December 2009 - Loom Building
Now that the car is painted we felt the time as right to get the front screen replaced. It was cracked when we bought the shell. A local firm, Wizard Windscreens came out bright and early to fit one for us. Its so clean and clear.
We started with a massive box of wire with many, many different colours and lengths. These had been worked out over many late nights to make sure we had all we needed. As with all best made plans, we didn't. The rear of the car was a good a place to start as any. After fitting the nearside rear light, the loom began to take shape. A brake light and indicator is all that was needed so a grand total of 2 wires was carefully wrapped in loom tape and secured along the back panel towards the off side rear light.
Once at the offside light a 3rd and 4th wire were added. One for the indicator on that side and another for the rain light. The rain light wire routed up the 'C' pillar along with a brake feed for the centre brake light on the tailgate. Again loom taped and 'P' clipped neatly into place.
It was taking forever, but was turning out better than we had expected. A fuel pump feed and earth were fed into the spare wheel well and taped into the loom, as well as a feed for the stock, in tank pump. (We are running a second fuel pump and swirl pot, more on that in a later update) The loom then ran along the drivers sill and towards the offside front footwell.
We were up to the dash now so the brake light wire had to be connected to the pedal switch. The lower steering column cover was then fitted and had to be modified to fit. As we are using phase 2 covers on a phase 1 column, none of the screw holes lined up. The reason we swapped them is the fact that the top cover just clips to the lower cover, rather than screwed in place on the phase 1 version. It makes it easier to mount the display and make changes.
The bundle of loom was starting to get bigger at this point, as we added in the wires to run the dash display and indicator relay. Any joins that had to be made were done using heat-shrink butt connectors. These are crimped as normal using an appropriate crimping tool, then heated with a hot air gun so they shrink down around the wire. They also release some glue when heated to make a very solid and secure, waterproof joint.
While I concentrated on getting the dash display and indicators working properly, Tony finished off the battery installation. A cable was feed from the cut out relay, along the passenger floor and through the bulkhead to the mega fuse holder in the engine bay.
Cutout switches were then fitted to the nearside scuttle panel (outside) and to the offside lower dash (inside) These control the cutout relay. We are also using them as a main ignition switch. That was it for today. 10 hours with wires was enough
172 Race Car
Saturday 12th December 2009 - Fire!
Our extinguisher arrived. A lifeline fully plumbed kit, thanks to Oxford Fire Solutions. It was mounted in the passenger side and the pull cable fitted to the scuttle panel. The we realised a big error when the bonnet was put on. We the had to relocate it so it was actually useable with the bonnet on
Sunday 13th December 2009 - Loom Building Day 2
We had hoped to get the loom all finished today, didn't quite happen. A good 10 hours spent on the car and there is still lots to do with the wiring. As we mentioned in an earlier post, the engine bay loom will be on a quick release connector. We chose to use a Neptune 12/19 connector. They are not cheap but are very high spec and more than enough for what we need. A hole was drilled in the bulkhead for the socket to fit through. The best place we found was next to the heater matrix outlets
Then the task of connecting the wires at the ECU end of the connector. They were threaded through the waterproof grommet one by one and the terminals crimped on. The engine control system uses less sensors than the Renault ECU. We retain coolant temperature, air temperature, throttle position and crank sensors. The engine loom will be significantly smaller than the stock one.
Back to the main loom, it was starting to come together. The indicator relay was fitted to the heater box, wired and tested along with the dash warning lights. Every thing worked as planned (eventually) The lower dash went in so the wires for the switch panel could be cut to the correct lengths
The switch panel was connected up and all circuits tested yet again. The wipers gave a small headache as I was trying to be clever with the way the washers worked. My idea just confused things so it was simplified and all worked fine. The connections behind the panel will need further tidying up but will do for now. So thats a far as we got. It doesn't look like big progress but there is light at the end of the wiring tunnel.
Our extinguisher arrived. A lifeline fully plumbed kit, thanks to Oxford Fire Solutions. It was mounted in the passenger side and the pull cable fitted to the scuttle panel. The we realised a big error when the bonnet was put on. We the had to relocate it so it was actually useable with the bonnet on
Sunday 13th December 2009 - Loom Building Day 2
We had hoped to get the loom all finished today, didn't quite happen. A good 10 hours spent on the car and there is still lots to do with the wiring. As we mentioned in an earlier post, the engine bay loom will be on a quick release connector. We chose to use a Neptune 12/19 connector. They are not cheap but are very high spec and more than enough for what we need. A hole was drilled in the bulkhead for the socket to fit through. The best place we found was next to the heater matrix outlets
Then the task of connecting the wires at the ECU end of the connector. They were threaded through the waterproof grommet one by one and the terminals crimped on. The engine control system uses less sensors than the Renault ECU. We retain coolant temperature, air temperature, throttle position and crank sensors. The engine loom will be significantly smaller than the stock one.
Back to the main loom, it was starting to come together. The indicator relay was fitted to the heater box, wired and tested along with the dash warning lights. Every thing worked as planned (eventually) The lower dash went in so the wires for the switch panel could be cut to the correct lengths
The switch panel was connected up and all circuits tested yet again. The wipers gave a small headache as I was trying to be clever with the way the washers worked. My idea just confused things so it was simplified and all worked fine. The connections behind the panel will need further tidying up but will do for now. So thats a far as we got. It doesn't look like big progress but there is light at the end of the wiring tunnel.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
great update again chap
R26
Nice updates. Still looking forward to seeing it!
182cup & 172 racecar
