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Cambelt checks



When I got the 182 in July it came with receipts saying cam belt & accessory belt had been changed earlier this year.
Took it to a Ren specialist and they told me the tensioner wasn't correctly fitted and the accessory belt needed changing.
Because of that I'm doubting the cam belt has actually been changed.
Is there any way of checking?

I haven't driven it much at all since I got it & it's only just over 71k, but noticed a slight whine on idle from the drivers side last night... dephaser?
 

Poopensharten

ClioSport Club Member
  Golf R
There isn't any physical way to check a cambelt. The only way to be sure is getting it done at your own accord.

The whine is usually the aux belt, if they're telling you it was incorrectly fitted, change it. The dephaser will tick, loudly, when up to temperature, not whine.
 
Thanks Danny. Thought that might be the case, better err on the side of caution.
Aux belt was changed and tensioner fitted properly in July, before that it was whining when PAS pump was under load.
Hard to describe the noise, it's not as loud as aux belt whine, and I probably wouldnt have even noticed it if I wasnt smoking.
 

Stay Puft

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
Should be okay, but people often say a Renault specialist and a sport specialist are 'different'.
 
I take it they're doing the aux belt kit again too, seeing as they're changing the waterpump?

What price have they quoted?
I asked about that, but they only did aux belt back in July and it's done less than 100 miles since, so they said should be no need to replace.
Price was just over £400 inc VAT just for the labour (cam belt, dephaser, water pump & coolant flush), as I've already sourced the parts.
 

Poopensharten

ClioSport Club Member
  Golf R
You should never re-tension a belt and any garage worth the hair on their b****cks will know/tell you that!
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
As Danny says.

I also hate to tell you that it's a £600 all in job for everything from a specialist. I bet it's cost a fair bit just for the parts you've bought.
 
@JamesBryan Yeah, since I've had the car the radiator fan never switches on even when the engine is above thermostat kick in temp.
Fan comes on straight away with AC on, so ruled that out.
Have a new thermostat, coolant temp sensor and housing gasket so asked him to swap those when he does the coolant flush.
 
  dan's cast offs.
Fan doesn't kick in until 99deg. I've had them sit ticking over for half hour before the fan comes on.
 
Spot on @bloke
Started car from cold and it hit 85c within 10 mins then dropped to 80c so revved at 2krpm for a few mins and it eventually hit 99c and i heard and felt the fan kick in. So the cts is good.
Turned engine off for a few mins and the car would only start after 3 attempts. Never had an issue with starting it.
Temp was 93c when it started up again.
 
Just had a look under the car and noticed a bit of fresh oil on the bottom of the sump and fresh oil spots on the floor that looks to be coming from the gear linkage. That seal looks pretty shot, is it easy to fit a new seal?
Never a dull moment with this clio 😂
20161019_205113.jpg
 
  dan's cast offs.
It's cool, just trying to picture it.

Box has to be stripped for selector seal unless you use the repair kit.
 
  dan's cast offs.
strip and full rebuild is pricey, not looked a prices for a while but parts alone are nudging £300.
 
@bloke I saw PMS offer a rebuild service but it's £300 before parts, so around £600 for gearbox & maybe another £250 for clutch & flywheel. Hmmm I may drain the gearbox and see what the oil is like before doing anything else.
Clutch is heavy but I hear thats normal on the 182s, gearing is fairly smooth and don't have any crunching.

Another quick question, does the coolant need to be drained to remove the water pump?
Was going to tell the guy not to bother with coolant flush, cts & thermo but still do water pump as he'll be doing the aux & cam anyways. Just wondering if he would need to drain the coolant anyway
 

Amos91

Honorary Member
ClioSport Club Member
Leak isn't even that bad, not worth fixing until the gearbox starts crunching. A litre of of oil is less than a tenner and would rarely need to be topped up anyway.
 
Will leave the gearbox for now, will flush it and keep an eye on it.
Had a look around the forum and the issue i had last night, when the engine was hot and wouldnt start up could be the tdc sensor. So will pull that out and clean up the connector.
Going to do a compression test tomorrow so might hold off on cambelt if results are bad.
 


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