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cams are in! car feels slower





had kent cams fitted today, BUT they ahve been set up like they are standard, not as kent intended. Idle seems fine, had full exhaust system and modified air box done at the same time, it sounds really good, BUT the car feels slower! much slower low down the revs, between 5k-6.5k it gets really lively but its a bit pants before that? any ideas guys? Assume its cos ti needs setting up right and chipping? Also its leaking oil quite badly from what looks like where the pulleys sit, its going in 2moro to have its cam seals checked, will i be doing any damage by driving it in the mean time?
 
  Volvo S60 T5


they cocked that up then, get them to check it all again to ensure its all set up correctly.

Sounds like the cam seals leaking, I would hold back from driving it till sorted m8
 
  williams and trophy


mate u know how mine is...

but mines set to wot kent recommend.....

felt quite a bit flatter low down , an the 2500 pull of the willy dint seem to be there, hit 4500 rpm tho an it jus takes off........

felt a bit slower tbh to begin with , but the times down the strip are slightly better, so sumats workin hehe

would sort the leak out tho,
 


i agreed onletting them time cams to standard, gonna get Andy GDI to do them, if im gonna spend a mint getting it reight it may as well be bang on......leave it to Andy!
 
  2005 Nissan Navara


thats wot happens when u increase cam duration----less torque at lower engine speeds.

correct setting up will help things, but the power-band will still be higher up
 
  williams and trophy


tbh the power band doesnt seem to be all that much higher up the rev range.......jus a lot more power in the band if u know wot i mean, all the 60ft/1/8 mile times are quicker too so the 2500 push of the willy lump is stil there jus not as noticable with the extra power of the 4500 one........IMHO
 


low down power really feels affected, 5k-6.5 sounds mental and goes like stink though! bare in mind that its been sat for a month also, needs new plugs and only done 20 miles since being put back together!
 


Who did it?

Really shouldnt time the cams into std, thats the main reason we call it cam timing, because its specific.

If its leaking from the pulyl area they probably pushed the cam seals all the way in till they stopped rather than keeping them flush with the carrier face and keeping a gap behind.
 
  williams and trophy


i felt that also, but wasnt sure if it was jus me not drivin it for 3 months an expectin to much wen i did finally drive it lol

but with the times , and the more i drive it, the low down power doesnt seem to be affected much at all, the 2500 kick is stil there but doesnt seem to be as strong as before, but i expectd this, but like i say gets to 4500 an things start gettin good, until limiters stop play, the car is pulling really strong even 100rpm befor limiters, so i reckon it rev a bit higher very nicely

will be even better wen its sorted properly with ecu n new mani n sh*t
 


Hi Ben, they didnt really know what they were doing with timing the cams, and because every mm counts so to speak, im gonna let Andy GDI do them, at least that way i know they will be bang on.

As for cam seals, you reckon they pushed them in too far? will driving the car like this, albeit carefully, do much harm?
 


ive always been told to let new internals bed in on mineral oil basic castrol is fine although i stand to be corrected
 


Pardon?

When you fit a new cam you have to run it in for about 15 mins to work harden the surface and prevent excessive nose loading which can ruin the cam. SO you run it at about 2500rpm for 15 mins.
 


thought this was only for billet cams? and if not, how much damage do you do if you just let it idle normal for 20 mins?
 


yup totaly agree with you there mate after rebuilds i cover a few hundred miles with mineral oil then drop change filter and replace with good quality stuff . that make sense or am i totaly wrong ?
 


glad you agree generaly i prefer to run in any new parts purely to clean and flush out engine hows the car coming on any way ?
 


cannot say if it has or will damage them but the instructions in with the cams clearly state not to let it idle for the first 15/20 mins for reasons ben mentioned above i would defo drop oil and replace with new
 
  GDI Demo 182, Rsi Spider


simple on cams, just keep at 2500 rpm for about 15 mins.... not to let idle....

however I have rearly seen damage done.... so if there is no problem dont worry

the cam timing will help, as will the chip mate.
 
  172 Cup


interesting bit of reading cheers boys! i think i will be in way over my head with rebuilding and tuning the willy lump myself! i think that when i have saved up enough cash i will pass it all over to andy to do!

Paul
 
  Skoda Fabia vRS


really the garage should have done the 2500rpm thing for 15 mins

even i know about that and i know f**k all ! lol
 


Quote: Originally posted by Andy GDI on 05 May 2004


simple on cams, just keep at 2500 rpm for about 15 mins.... not to let idle....

however I have rearly seen damage done.... so if there is no problem dont worry

the cam timing will help, as will the chip mate.





No noticeable damage.....although its a bit poo starting over, but my spark plugs are in need of change. Basically when you start the car, its as though the battery is really weak and not got enough power to start the car, this aint cos of the cams is it? The car aint gonna be driven now until i take it to Andy(well its gonna get its camseal done 2moro) but after that im sitting it, taking it for oil/filter/plugs change then up to Andy for cam timing and SMT6, any other advice guys? Thanks for all the replys again, much appreciated!
 
  172 Cup


after the cams head work and a full rebuild and balance after its run in and set up with the SMT6 i am hoping for about 180 - 190bhp.

Paul
 


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