Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
or go for mine and save over £200 vs the 550D ;o)
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Canon EOS 550D
- Thread starter Danny133
- Start date
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
i want to future proof up to the 7D but not sure if 60D would be better for me
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
yeppp
but i cant find a flower hood for an 18-55m IS canon lens
any 58mm lens hood will fit the 18-55mm lens
Absolutely. They do exactly the same.
The hoods have also saved the glass on my lenses from a knock a couple of times so they offer added protection too.
forgot about that youd need a round one =\
not really could use them in most environments tbh
I use them whenever my kids are about, or if I am in crowds for protection, and for studio work to reduce flair. In fact, I pretty much use the hoods all the time.
I don't have one on my 50mm and the 24-70 I am borrowing didn't come with one, which does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on my pictures from the weekend. If the lens comes with one, there is no harm in using it IMHO.
You're right. There is always something bigger, better and faster around the corner.
I'll be happy with my 5DII for a while though. It even beats the 1DIV in terms of image quality up to about 3200 ISO. The 1DIV gets perfectly usable images up to 12800 with minimal in camera noise reduction which blows the 5 out of the water.
The AF is the only thing I wish they would sort, but the 1DIV also suffers in low light.
I'll be happy with my 5DII for a while though. It even beats the 1DIV in terms of image quality up to about 3200 ISO. The 1DIV gets perfectly usable images up to 12800 with minimal in camera noise reduction which blows the 5 out of the water.
The AF is the only thing I wish they would sort, but the 1DIV also suffers in low light.
snobby lol
im just worried
ive never spent £500 on anything before - its took me AGESSSSSSSSSSS to get this money .. and now i have it im thinking wtf do i buy 550 or 500.
the 500 i can afford
the 550 i can buy lol but not neccessarily afford etc
its so complex i just dont understand etc
im just worried
ive never spent £500 on anything before - its took me AGESSSSSSSSSSS to get this money .. and now i have it im thinking wtf do i buy 550 or 500.
the 500 i can afford
the 550 i can buy lol but not neccessarily afford etc
its so complex i just dont understand etc
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
go with what your hear says Danny. The 500D is a very capable camera, it just depends on what you need. here is a comoarison from camerlabs.com
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
I still see video recording as a very secondary feature of SLR cameras. nice featre but tbh I have prob used it 3-4 times tops
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
the 50mm is one of the best investments anyone could make. awesome lens and can be picked up for less than £80 if you look around
Oil Burner
The 50mm is a prime lens with a large maximum aperture (f1.8), so you can use DOF to structure images, get rid of rubbish background etc... Also having a large aperture lens gives you several more stops of light, so you wont have to use such high ISO to achieve the same shutter speeds.
For £80 its a bargain, albeit not exactly the best lens in the world, but will teach you to compose your shots better (being a prime) and give you some shallow DOF to play with which usually costs a lot more.
Your 18-55 will probably have a max aperture of f4.5 - 5.6 @ 50mm.....
For £80 its a bargain, albeit not exactly the best lens in the world, but will teach you to compose your shots better (being a prime) and give you some shallow DOF to play with which usually costs a lot more.
Your 18-55 will probably have a max aperture of f4.5 - 5.6 @ 50mm.....
my 18-55 is 3.5 -5.6 i think .. but goes up to 36 ... 3.6 is the lowest it goes i think?
so am i right in saying the lower that number the better and for macro a lower aperture will blur the background and focus on the subject so a 1.8 lens is best?
f**king hell i hope im learning this right!?
50mm is also the amount of zoom right? does it being a 50mm lens mean i cannot zoom out at all and its fixed?
also my shutter speeds go up to 4000 is that good?
so am i right in saying the lower that number the better and for macro a lower aperture will blur the background and focus on the subject so a 1.8 lens is best?
f**king hell i hope im learning this right!?
50mm is also the amount of zoom right? does it being a 50mm lens mean i cannot zoom out at all and its fixed?
also my shutter speeds go up to 4000 is that good?
Oil Burner
As your lens is a 18-55 3.5 - 5.6 at its shortest focal length (18mm) its largest aperture will be f3.5, the smallest aperture might be 36, i'm not sure, its not a commonly used end of the scale.
The lower the number the shallower the DOF.
Shallow DOF does not make it a Macro lens. However where your probably getting confused is that macro lenses often display very shallow depth of field, but this is a side effect of them often being fairly long focal length lenses with a very close minimum focus distance. This gives you the effect of a very shallow DOF and is why focus is more critical the closer the subject is to you.
50mm is the Focal Length.
A prime lens is a lens with a fixed focal length, a zoom lens is a lens which covers a range of Focal lengths.
1/4000th is plenty fast enough for pretty much anything.
The lower the number the shallower the DOF.
Shallow DOF does not make it a Macro lens. However where your probably getting confused is that macro lenses often display very shallow depth of field, but this is a side effect of them often being fairly long focal length lenses with a very close minimum focus distance. This gives you the effect of a very shallow DOF and is why focus is more critical the closer the subject is to you.
50mm is the Focal Length.
A prime lens is a lens with a fixed focal length, a zoom lens is a lens which covers a range of Focal lengths.
1/4000th is plenty fast enough for pretty much anything.
Oil Burner
You get specific Macro Lenses. They are Lenses that will Focus very close. They are typically pretty expensive. However to take photos of flowers you don't really need a macro lens tbh, any lens will do really. 50mm f1.8 would be fine.
Extension tubes are a way of making a normal lens focus much closer. You get two types, the super cheap ones that wont allow the Auto Focus to work (so you have to manual focus) and expensive ones that will still allow Auto Focus to work.
Extension tubes are a way of making a normal lens focus much closer. You get two types, the super cheap ones that wont allow the Auto Focus to work (so you have to manual focus) and expensive ones that will still allow Auto Focus to work.
Oil Burner
Its not a zoom lens. Its prime.
Its largest aperture is f1.8 compared to f5.6 of the 18-55 @ 55mm. This means that at its largest aperture the 50mm f1.8 will produce a shallower depth of field than the 18-55mm.
Here is a basic guide i have written for another forum. I'm sure there are some mistakes in it (wrote it ages ago) but it should help get you up to speed if you read it carefully.
The basics behind how a camera works is this: You control How much light is let into the camera (aperture) for how long (shutter speed) and how sensitive you want the camera to be to this light (iso)
Shutter speed is the time the shutter on the camera is open (exposing the sensor to light) during the shot. This can vary from 1/8000th of a second to 30 seconds. The longer it is open the more light that gets let in, but the greater the chance the subject will have moved during the shot.
Aperture This is a system of blades that control the amount of light allowed to enter the camera. This can be anywhere from F1.2 to F32 depending on the lens. Confusingly the smaller the number the greater the opening and the more light is allowed in. Aperture also effects Depth of Field (how deep the area of photo in focus is). A large Aperture like F2.8 will produce very shallow depth of field.
ISO Like Film this is how sensitive the Sensor is to light. Typically this will vary from iso100 to iso1600 (or even higher on recent models) The higher the number the more sensitive the sensor is to light, but the more noise in the photo.
How to use my DSLR:
There are 4 main settings to consider on your camera:
There are Auto settings (green box) or P will sort out the camera so you get a photo in the light conditions. However they don’t take into account if the subject is moving, if it is stationary etc… We don’t like these settings.
The more complex settings are TV, AV and M (or S and A on a Nikon)
M is Manual, you control everything, best avoided until your getting the hang of TV and AV (see below)
TV is Shutter priority mode. In this mode you set the shutter speed/ISO and the camera will work out a suitable Aperture for your current ISO/Shutter speed to get you a properly exposed photo. Adjusted using the little wheel just below the shutter release.
AV is Aperture priority. In this mode you set the Aperture/ISO and the camera will select a suitable shutter speed so the picture is exposed correctly. Adjusted using the little wheel just below the shutter release.
With both of these settings the camera still doesn’t know what you really want to take a photo of, however it allows you to set the shutter speed/aperture to a suitable setting.
TV/Shutter priority is the more common mode to use as you need to make sure the shutter speed is not too low and you don’t end up with a blurry shot. There is a simple way to make sure the shutter speed is correctly set. It should always be no lower than the length of lens you are using.
For example if I am using a 250mm lens (or a longer zoom lens set at 250mm) then I would set my shutter speed to 1/250th as a minimum. Faster is always better. I very barely drop below 1/400th of a second, this will allow for shots of most things moving with little chance of blurr.
Why would you use AV/Aperture priority? If you wanted to control the depth of field, either having a very shallow area in focus (low F Number) to help seperate the subject from the background. Or a large area in focus (large F number) if you wanted everything in the shot to be sharp.
An example:
What do all the other buttons do?
Without writing an explanation for every single camera the basics that you will also need to work out are:
AF Points
This is where you tell the camera where it is going to look to auto focus.
When you look through the camera you may have noticed there are a number of boxes dotted around the view finder in a diamond shape. Well you can choose any of these boxes individually or all of them at once or just let the camera take a wild stab in the dark.
Say in the below shot i have used one of the l/h side AF spots as the thing i want in focus is on the l/h side of the frame.
I would try and always use a specific AF point, even if you just leave it on the centre one and make sure your subject is always in the middle of the frame. The logo for this is a diamond of squares like you see through your viewfinder.
Metering mode
This in lamens terms is where you tell the camera to work out how bright it is. There are normally 3/4 settings
Evaluative, Gives it a good guess, will work for 99% of stuff unless the background is very bright/dark as it takes an average based on your AF point.
Partial Looks at the middle 10% of the image
Spot Just looks at the middle (or selected AF Point). Good for subjects that are very dark/bright compared to background.
C/W Average Just looks at the whole photo, but considers the middle's opinion slightly more valuable than the outside.
The button to change the ISO
Either set this to auto or try and keep it as low as possible. Auto may be better while you get used to the new settings.
The Auto Focus Mode
There are 3 modes here, They do the following:
One shot AF You focus on subject (first stage of the shutter release) the camera beeps, it has now held focus and so long as you keep your finger held down it wont change. Good for things that dont move. Castles or walls or something.
AI Servo This mode never locks focus, as long as you have your finger pushed down on the first stage of the shutter it will focus wherever you point it.
AI Focus The camera does a bit of both of the above settings. This is used when a subject might move a small amount. Trying to do portraits of the family or dogs or something. I've never found a use for this mode.
Shot Type
Nice and simple, do you want 1 shot per press, or do you want the camera to keep taking shots untill you take your finger off the shutter release. I would use the later as we all have such fine trigger control on this forum. The logo to find this is normally lots of boxes ontop of each other. You can also set timers for self portraits/family pics, but this isnt for men.
Its largest aperture is f1.8 compared to f5.6 of the 18-55 @ 55mm. This means that at its largest aperture the 50mm f1.8 will produce a shallower depth of field than the 18-55mm.
Here is a basic guide i have written for another forum. I'm sure there are some mistakes in it (wrote it ages ago) but it should help get you up to speed if you read it carefully.
The basics behind how a camera works is this: You control How much light is let into the camera (aperture) for how long (shutter speed) and how sensitive you want the camera to be to this light (iso)
Shutter speed is the time the shutter on the camera is open (exposing the sensor to light) during the shot. This can vary from 1/8000th of a second to 30 seconds. The longer it is open the more light that gets let in, but the greater the chance the subject will have moved during the shot.
Aperture This is a system of blades that control the amount of light allowed to enter the camera. This can be anywhere from F1.2 to F32 depending on the lens. Confusingly the smaller the number the greater the opening and the more light is allowed in. Aperture also effects Depth of Field (how deep the area of photo in focus is). A large Aperture like F2.8 will produce very shallow depth of field.
ISO Like Film this is how sensitive the Sensor is to light. Typically this will vary from iso100 to iso1600 (or even higher on recent models) The higher the number the more sensitive the sensor is to light, but the more noise in the photo.
How to use my DSLR:
There are 4 main settings to consider on your camera:
There are Auto settings (green box) or P will sort out the camera so you get a photo in the light conditions. However they don’t take into account if the subject is moving, if it is stationary etc… We don’t like these settings.
The more complex settings are TV, AV and M (or S and A on a Nikon)
M is Manual, you control everything, best avoided until your getting the hang of TV and AV (see below)
TV is Shutter priority mode. In this mode you set the shutter speed/ISO and the camera will work out a suitable Aperture for your current ISO/Shutter speed to get you a properly exposed photo. Adjusted using the little wheel just below the shutter release.
AV is Aperture priority. In this mode you set the Aperture/ISO and the camera will select a suitable shutter speed so the picture is exposed correctly. Adjusted using the little wheel just below the shutter release.
With both of these settings the camera still doesn’t know what you really want to take a photo of, however it allows you to set the shutter speed/aperture to a suitable setting.
TV/Shutter priority is the more common mode to use as you need to make sure the shutter speed is not too low and you don’t end up with a blurry shot. There is a simple way to make sure the shutter speed is correctly set. It should always be no lower than the length of lens you are using.
For example if I am using a 250mm lens (or a longer zoom lens set at 250mm) then I would set my shutter speed to 1/250th as a minimum. Faster is always better. I very barely drop below 1/400th of a second, this will allow for shots of most things moving with little chance of blurr.
Why would you use AV/Aperture priority? If you wanted to control the depth of field, either having a very shallow area in focus (low F Number) to help seperate the subject from the background. Or a large area in focus (large F number) if you wanted everything in the shot to be sharp.
An example:
What do all the other buttons do?
Without writing an explanation for every single camera the basics that you will also need to work out are:
AF Points
This is where you tell the camera where it is going to look to auto focus.
When you look through the camera you may have noticed there are a number of boxes dotted around the view finder in a diamond shape. Well you can choose any of these boxes individually or all of them at once or just let the camera take a wild stab in the dark.
Say in the below shot i have used one of the l/h side AF spots as the thing i want in focus is on the l/h side of the frame.
I would try and always use a specific AF point, even if you just leave it on the centre one and make sure your subject is always in the middle of the frame. The logo for this is a diamond of squares like you see through your viewfinder.
Metering mode
This in lamens terms is where you tell the camera to work out how bright it is. There are normally 3/4 settings
Evaluative, Gives it a good guess, will work for 99% of stuff unless the background is very bright/dark as it takes an average based on your AF point.
Partial Looks at the middle 10% of the image
Spot Just looks at the middle (or selected AF Point). Good for subjects that are very dark/bright compared to background.
C/W Average Just looks at the whole photo, but considers the middle's opinion slightly more valuable than the outside.
The button to change the ISO
Either set this to auto or try and keep it as low as possible. Auto may be better while you get used to the new settings.
The Auto Focus Mode
There are 3 modes here, They do the following:
One shot AF You focus on subject (first stage of the shutter release) the camera beeps, it has now held focus and so long as you keep your finger held down it wont change. Good for things that dont move. Castles or walls or something.
AI Servo This mode never locks focus, as long as you have your finger pushed down on the first stage of the shutter it will focus wherever you point it.
AI Focus The camera does a bit of both of the above settings. This is used when a subject might move a small amount. Trying to do portraits of the family or dogs or something. I've never found a use for this mode.
Shot Type
Nice and simple, do you want 1 shot per press, or do you want the camera to keep taking shots untill you take your finger off the shutter release. I would use the later as we all have such fine trigger control on this forum. The logo to find this is normally lots of boxes ontop of each other. You can also set timers for self portraits/family pics, but this isnt for men.
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
very good beginner guide which forum was it intended for?
which forum was it intended for?
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
haha yeah, they can be an odd bunch over there. unless you know everything there is to know about cameras you are entering a minefield!
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