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182
Who have you been offered this from?
182
Whats his number?
Buy it, cat D or not they are always sold at around 12k now. It will only go up in value.
Buy it, cat D or not they are always sold at around 12k now. It will only go up in value.
1.2Clio / 182!!
Why's that? Is it a dog of a shell or something??
Snapshot arm off if I were you!! Or blag him lower haha
If it's a Mk.1 clio it's probably not a V6 :rasp:
Take a look, if the repair is sweet go for it!
p.s. ANOTHER V6?
p.s. ANOTHER V6?
Inf 182 Cup
If it doesn't change the way the car drives and it's been fixed up then why not
My Inferno 182 is a cat D, because someone reversed into the back of it (company guy) and left a dent in the boot, which I'm getting fixed for £50, but it's still a cat D....no different to any other 182 driving wise!
My Inferno 182 is a cat D, because someone reversed into the back of it (company guy) and left a dent in the boot, which I'm getting fixed for £50, but it's still a cat D....no different to any other 182 driving wise!
Stefan.
ClioSport Club Member
When was it registered as a cat d, as if it wasn't that old than it would of been a big crash.
I had £500 worth of damage done to a 1.2 and it was never categorised even though the insurer initially said it was cat c. You've been had somewhere I think.
i was under the impression a cat c was uneconomical repair and cat d was unsafe to repair. Is that not the case?
V6 255, 172's, JCW,
The whole cat D thing is quite subjective. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not in the trade but have friends that are...
A car can be classed as a cat. D if the cost of the repairs exceed (approximately) 75% of the value of the car. If it's written off as cat D from new, that'd be £18,750 on a £25k car. 12 years down the line the same car is only worth, say £10k.. So it would get a cat D status with just £7.5k worth of damage... A huge difference. So I'd be looking at when it was recorded as a car D, as a gauge to find out how serious the damage was likely to have been.
No?
A car can be classed as a cat. D if the cost of the repairs exceed (approximately) 75% of the value of the car. If it's written off as cat D from new, that'd be £18,750 on a £25k car. 12 years down the line the same car is only worth, say £10k.. So it would get a cat D status with just £7.5k worth of damage... A huge difference. So I'd be looking at when it was recorded as a car D, as a gauge to find out how serious the damage was likely to have been.
No?
Stefan.
ClioSport Club Member
R-Sport.
ClioSport Club Member
Mint 1*2's for sale-
Yes. That is correct, however the issue with a v6 is insurance companies will under value it
i guesd though if you put the accident in the last 5 years it was probably worth around 10k so the bill was north of 7500 however for a vee thats not many body parts...
as ever the worry would be the outside has been done nicely & the non visible stuff hasnt -
it might seem a bargain but throw in belts, tax a few mechanical repairs & your north of 9k off the bat-
i dont think its a worthwhile investment - maybe 5.5-6k to take the sting out of the cambelt etc ......
S
i guesd though if you put the accident in the last 5 years it was probably worth around 10k so the bill was north of 7500 however for a vee thats not many body parts...
as ever the worry would be the outside has been done nicely & the non visible stuff hasnt -
it might seem a bargain but throw in belts, tax a few mechanical repairs & your north of 9k off the bat-
i dont think its a worthwhile investment - maybe 5.5-6k to take the sting out of the cambelt etc ......
S
V6 255, 172's, JCW,
Ah yes, so they did... Lol
I just elaborated on your comment a little
For a long term investment, finding wheels etc at the right price and storing it for a few years, it's a reasonable price (assuming values continue to appreciate). Keep it for another 5 years, stored and in-used, and you could probably dodge a cam belt service too.
But as you suggest Steve, not one for a quick turn around.... as a cat D
How can it be a Cat D - but be HPI clear ??
Uwotm8 ??
Also, those wheels are gash. It'll cost you best part of a grand just to replace them.
loggyboy
ClioSport Club Member
HPI clear doesnt mean the car has no history. If it was Cat D and hadn't been VIC'd it wouldnt be 'clear'.
Besides he's probably meaning that its finance clear.
Besides he's probably meaning that its finance clear.
loggyboy
ClioSport Club Member
It says in the listing the CAT D was due to damage to side skirts. Which owing to the rarity/expense of genuine parts and labour on bodywork, it wouldn't take much to write off a 10-12k car.
loggyboy
ClioSport Club Member
Looks like they are mounted fine, to a large chassis member/cross brace.
Id be more worried about the stainless fastener, id want that changed to a couple of 10.9 eyebolts.
EDIT
Looks like there are 2 different photos showing two different mounts - the one of the engine bay cover removed shows a good chassis mount but rubbish bolts, the other shows the tailgate up, cover on and good eyebolts mounted to a flimsy angle bracket.
Most people think vehicle salvage means a heap of metal, which does not drive and is not worth a penny. This is absolute nonsense because yes vehicle salvage can be a heap of metal which is worthless, but more often than not vehicle salvage simply means the car is damaged and can be repaired. As this definition of vehicle salvage is vague it is best to inform you that vehicle salvage actually comes in categories and they are A, B, C, D and X, all with various pros and cons and as explained in this article can make us a nice bit of cash and many people use it as their main source of income. Firstly we will define the vehicle salvage categories in the below vehicle salvage guidelines: Category A suits the original theory of vehicle salvage being a heap of metal and usually by the time you pay for the new car parts and costs of fixing it up you stand to make a loss. The category is only good for car parts, maybe an ECU or a car engine. Category B is similar to A in that it should only be used for car parts, however if you broke the vehicle salvage and sold the car parts you would stand to make a profit. However if you want to fix the vehicle salvage up to be road worthy then you would make a loss. Category C is where the vehicle can be repaired and can bring you a profit. The damage may still be a lot but it is fixable to a road worthy state. If you get it done by a retailer they the costs may exceed the pre accident value, however if you know how to do something?s yourself or have a relationship with a certain garage you will almost certainly make a profit. Since category C is on the border of breaking the vehicle salvage down for car parts and fixing the vehicle salvage up, you should always ensure you can fix it up for a profit before purchasing. Category D ensures the vehicle is always repairable and that the cost of doing so (retailer or no retailer) will be less than the pre-sale value, thus making you a tidy profit. The damage is always less than a category C and often parts such as new wings or bumpers are needed with very little damage. Category X is the best vehicle salvage around since the car has no or little damage (apart from wear and tear from the previous owners) to it and is simply stolen recovered or unclassified as being in an accident. This type of vehicle salvage always makes a high profit. Therefore vehicle salvage can be categories and vehicle salvage guidelines produced and as a rule of thumb category?s A and B are used for car parts, categories C and D are for repairs and category X is a bargain and should be bought on the spot. Most vehicle salvage sites such as SalvageSpareFinder only deal with categories C, D and X and ensure only the best vehicle salvage, and often have more in-depth vehicle salvage guidelines.
BMW M4; S1000 RR
Why has it got harnesses for 2 high chairs...
loggyboy
ClioSport Club Member
Sold by looks of it.
Correct. Not a fan of either location tbh. Mine are going on the inside of the bulkhead with welded plates for added strength.
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