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Changing Track Rod Ends.

Is it fairly simple?
As in just undo the bolt attaching it to the hub, knock it down and out, then mark its position roughly and just unwind it using the Hex bolt bit on the end of the TRE until it comes off?
Then getting geo setup afterwards. Or is there anything I've missed?
 
Thats it mate yes, as you've obviously realised production tolerances mean you cant just assumine cause its going back onto the same thread its still the correct toe, so needs geo checking after.
Although if you do one at a time and make sure the steering wheel returns to straight after each one thats a way of avoiding it being far out.

Worth doing the inner arms as well on most 1*2's if they havent been done recently as they wear out too.
 
Inners are a pain though unless you make yourself a bodge tool. PM ^Jonff^ on here as he made himself one for his.

Also make sure you've got a balljoint remover. Makes life a LOT easier to get the TRE out of the hub.
 
Yea I don't have a ball joint splitter, was just going to smack downwards with a hammer, as you said doesn't matter if I damage it.
I'm just going to do the TRE's for now. Thanks, if I get stuck I'll post again!
 
Yea I don't have a ball joint splitter, was just going to smack downwards with a hammer, as you said doesn't matter if I damage it.
I'm just going to do the TRE's for now. Thanks, if I get stuck I'll post again!

I suggest cracking the nut on the end of the TRE before removing it from the hub.
 
Also smack the thread section poking through the hub not the main body of the TRE, as whacking the main body of the TRE will impact up into the rack, unliklely to cause harm as they are pretty tough, but better safe than sorry.
 
Yea that's what I was going to do, Remove the little nut, then hit downwards on the thread. Should be simple enough.
When you say crack the nut on the end of the TRE, do you mean the little one on the thread, or the big one attached to the inner arms?
 
He means the big one used as lock nut where its attached to the track rod, as once you have the TRE free its harder to hold it still while you undo the lock nut.
 
Im thinking of changing mine too, sure this is where my knockings coming from.

Does the inner rod have a hex for spanner to stop it spinning? Also when putting the new tre on does it need greese applying , and lastly do u need Loctite on the small nut that goes through hub part

thanks
 
Im thinking of changing mine too, sure this is where my knockings coming from.

Does the inner rod have a hex for spanner to stop it spinning? Also when putting the new tre on does it need greese applying , and lastly do u need Loctite on the small nut that goes through hub part

thanks

Try your ball joints and top mounts too.

Aftermarket ones usually have a hex in the top, but OEM to take off you'll need an impact gun ideally and a set of molegrips if it spins.

If they come with a grease nipple you've got the wrong ones, they won't need greasing.

No loctite needed as it'll be a nyloc nut, but put some copper grease around it to keep it free in the hub and a bit on the thread too for next time!
 
noo i dont mean nipples , i mean the thread on the track rod, greese that?

no doubt mine will be OE ones theyve been on whilst ive had car in 2005 :/
 
Wheel alignment is a term people use to say tracking/camber/caster basically, ie it's the same thing.


You need to get your tracking redone and also your camber if it's adjustable on your car (as standard it isn't)
 
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