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I had this problem mate, I ended up taking it back to Andyrg to take the gasket out and different bolts put in, my downpipe bolts still come loose tho, I might have the gasket removed from that too as they will not stay tight.
Its a fiddly job tho and I will probably have to take it to an exhaust specialists.
Its a fiddly job tho and I will probably have to take it to an exhaust specialists.
there is no gasket between my turbo and manifold, did you manage to nip yours up your self then or did Andy do it? Andy nipped them up mate, I was fed up of them coming loose.
Andy has put a wire in my turbo to Mani bolts now from one bolt to the other and its stopped them twisting loose, its not the nut that comes loose, its the bolt that screws into the manifold, when you put a wire from one to the other, it stops them twisting looses, theres a hole in my bolts to thread a wire through.
I'm fed up of the downpipe bolts coming loose tho, ive been to andys 3 times for that sorting!
Andy has put a wire in my turbo to Mani bolts now from one bolt to the other and its stopped them twisting loose, its not the nut that comes loose, its the bolt that screws into the manifold, when you put a wire from one to the other, it stops them twisting looses, theres a hole in my bolts to thread a wire through.
I'm fed up of the downpipe bolts coming loose tho, ive been to andys 3 times for that sorting!
Manifold to turbo gasket is non essential, i blew a few and got fed up replacing them and decided to not run one. You get a minor blow for about 30s-1min on startup as soon as theres a bit of heat the metal expands and it forms a good seal.
I'm guessing most are using M8 to m10 step studs (M10 at the manifold, M8 through the turbine housing). Take the turbo off and drill out to M10. Use M10 studs which are far stronger, use Knut M10 nuts, unlike most M10 nuts which take a 16 or 17mm head spanner which is useless when doing up the one nut with super tight access. THe Knuts use a 12mm spanner which is far far more workable.
These issues have been discussed on the net by the miata turbo lads, the only sure fire way to eliminate it is to make a stud that does not stretch with heat (its not just shaking causing them to rattle loose, its the extreme heat cycles the go through stretching the boggo stainless studs we all use. You need to use inconel.
I'm guessing most are using M8 to m10 step studs (M10 at the manifold, M8 through the turbine housing). Take the turbo off and drill out to M10. Use M10 studs which are far stronger, use Knut M10 nuts, unlike most M10 nuts which take a 16 or 17mm head spanner which is useless when doing up the one nut with super tight access. THe Knuts use a 12mm spanner which is far far more workable.
These issues have been discussed on the net by the miata turbo lads, the only sure fire way to eliminate it is to make a stud that does not stretch with heat (its not just shaking causing them to rattle loose, its the extreme heat cycles the go through stretching the boggo stainless studs we all use. You need to use inconel.
