Correcting burnt paint, which has then been sanded

[ScarySquirrel]

Very quick background info, changed the RS badge on my 182 to the new 197 style and in the process caused 3 burn marks on the boot lid, very small, but they annoyed me. I managed to get them off by VERY lighting sanding the affected area with wet & dry fine sandpaper (don't shoot me if this was a stupid thing to do. I panicked!)

It looks fine and much better than before, but obviously it's lost it's shine in that area. I have a touch up kit, but worried that I might cause more problems.

You don't really notice it unless you get your face right up to it, but obviously I'd like to fix it if possible. No pics at the moment unfortunately.

 

[ekaJ]

Machine polisher would sort easily enough, not sure if possible by hand though?

Rubbing compound maybe?

 

[Gaz_]

how do you burn paint changing badges?!

 

[Sheilas’ Wheels]

Easily sorted.

A cloth, some cutting compound, a boat load of hard work and some normal car polish to protect it after.

Nowt to worry about mate. (Although like Gaz said, how on earth do you burn your boot taking badges off?? :S)

 

[Andyrg@ ClioTurbo]

Most body shops use G3 followed by G10 but by hand will take a while to do, just keep it wet with a spray bottle,

 

[ScarySquirrel]

Thanks for the advice so far. Any guides I can follow to get the best finish?

I'm not 100% sure it was burnt, but it looked it, and I can only assume it was from holding the hair dryer in one spot for too long. To make matters worse I feel like the new badge is ever so slightly wonky. All in all a bad day

Will this stuff do the job? - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polish/meguiars-ultimate-compound/prod_554.html

 

[JMR]

The Megs stuff above would probably be ok by hand.

I have wet sanded scratches out of one of the black company vans before and yes the paintwork loses all of its gloss.
I used Menzerna polish below by hand and it restored the gloss nicely.

Even better by machine polisher - I just couldnt be bothered to get it out.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...a-intensive-polish-po85rd-3-02-/prod_229.html

 

[ScarySquirrel]

Thank you. I feel much better now knowing that this can be fixed.

From a 'technical' perspective, what has actually happened. By wet sanding it I've removed the defact, what actually happens when using the products above to bring to shine back?

Also, can I apply the above with a foam applicator?

 

[JMR]

By wet sanding the defect, you have removed a very small amount of the clearcoat or lacquer.
The frictional nature of the sanding action leaves very fine scratches in the clearcoat which also means light cannot reflect off as it usually does.

By using finer grades of wet & dry the scratches get finer and finer so a point where a polishing compound can remove these almost completely and restore the high gloss reflective nature of the original finish.
The polishes have microscopic elements of milled aluminium which due to their fragile nature break down completely when applied by machine or [very] thoroughly by hand.

Importantly when areas of paintwork are polished they need to have the finish protected by either a wax or sealant.

 

[ScarySquirrel]

Thank you for the detailed explanation.

So would I be better to sand it further with a finer grade of sand paper, and then polish, wax, and seal?

 

[JMR]

Depends what grade wet and dry you used.
You need to have gone down to 2500 or 3000 grit if you are going to polish out the sanding marks by hand.
Orbital polisher will take out 1500 - 2000 grit in one fell swoop with something like Menzerna IP.

 

[JMR]

Sorry, forgot about the rest of your question.

Re-sand with fine grade as above, then polish, then seal and wax.

You can apply synthetic sealant after polish, then wax over the sealant.
But you shouldn't synthetic seal over a wax.

 

[ScarySquirrel]

Thanks, I'll give it a go this weekend.

Will AG SRP for polish, AG EGP for sealant, and Dodo Blue Velvet be ok for wax?

 

[Jonny1*2]

be CAREFUL when wet sanding if you've never done it before. Pics of the defect would be useful, but as said, a quick going over with machine polisher would probably shift it. I'm sure there will be someone on here local to you that would lend a hand. AG SRP might not be harsh enough to use by hand, but give it a go. Definately seal it afterwards.

 

[JMR]

Thanks, I'll give it a go this weekend.

Will AG SRP for polish, AG EGP for sealant, and Dodo Blue Velvet be ok for wax?

You may have to go for something with a bit more cut than AG SRP.
Meguiars Scratch X should go some way to removing the wet sanding marks.

 

[Mr R.]

Should have called me mate, i did work on Porsches and Ferrari in a bodyshop for over 4 years..

 

[ScarySquirrel]

I went at it tonight with 3 layers of Megs Scratch X 2.0, then some AG SRP, and finally some AG EGP. It was getting dark so I couldn't see too well, but it seems to have helped. I'll know for certain in the morning

 

[ScarySquirrel]

Woohoo, it's pretty much completely gone (around 98% I would say). I had to look EXTREMELY closely to see signs of the problem, and I literally had my face on it and looking at a certain angle. I'll go over it again next time I wash the car and it will be 100% fixed.

Thanks everyone.

 

[fUbAr]