Detailing Chat & Questions Thread

[Cliotoby]

f**king seriously? What was the need in that? I dropped that trolling s**t a while ago and you bring it up for no reason?

3M is too big and bulky IMO which is why I liked the EP800 so much. Rupes might be too expensive.

 

[JonnyW]

Good weekend for detailing

 

[Adamm.]

Also decided I'll be applying tripple with a DA, any recommendations on a pad?

​Any one?

 

[Yellow Dave]

Sorry Toby, was only meant in jest. was more along the lines you seem to be willing to spend a little more to get a better product. I apologise. Reading back I didn't type want I actually meant.

Hadn't realised you'd used the EP before, not a machine i liked personally. what did you use?

 

[Yellow Dave]

​Any one?

A softer finishing pad would be my choice. What pads do you have?

 

[Adamm.]

A softer finishing pad would be my choice. What pads do you have?

Absolutely none atm, chem guys finishing pad best then you reckon?

 

[Yellow Dave]

Hexlogic? I used to use it with black or white pads, pre wax cleansers like lime prime or rejuvenate with with or green hex pads.

 

[Adamm.]

Yeah the hexlogic I used them before and they were brilliant to work with just not sure there any good for the likes of tripple etc.

Black seems to be the one to use just interested to see what people would use themselves before I buy. Cheers.

 

[Cliotoby]

Sorry Toby, was only meant in jest. was more along the lines you seem to be willing to spend a little more to get a better product. I apologise. Reading back I didn't type want I actually meant.

Hadn't realised you'd used the EP before, not a machine i liked personally. what did you use?

EP800, S1M180, Megs G220.

Das 6 Pro or Rupes would be a good bet for me I think as I no longer do any serious correction work. Rupes is so expensive though, might have to sling some dope.

 

[Cliotoby]

I managed this with a broked polisher. Ill upload dslr photos next week.

Loved CQUK btw its like old skool C1 used to be. Topped it with reload for now. I hope the beading will be ok. Forgot what a pain in the ass waterbased QD's are.

 

[Jaff.]

I love reload. It's fecking awesome!

i put it on that merc I've been doing (he's selling it soon) and its soooooo much easier than going around the car with a wax!

 

[Cliotoby]

I quite liked it. I prefer ipa based QD's but I guess you need to take care when topping other products. Waxing cars is so last tuesday its all about QD's now.

 

[Cliotoby]

Will Sonax Paint Prep (Basically IPA) remove CQUK atall?

Ive read that IPA will barely touch nano sealants.

 

[Gally]

It won't remove the actual cq it will remove reload which is silly imo.

 

[yellowbelly]

It won't remove the actual cq it will remove reload which is silly imo.

​can you elaborate Gally?

 

[Gally]

Well the CQ has a ceramic bond so Ipa might remove all beading and sheeting for example but it'll never remove the ceramic coating.

Anyway using something like that is retarded. Stick to reload or C2V3 which is piss easy to use also.

 

[yellowbelly]

Having only just used Reload for the first time last week I'm rather impressed

 

[JonnyW]

What trim/rubber product do people use?

 

[yellowbelly]

What trim/rubber product do people use?

Gtechniq C4 for near enough permanent otherwise Autofinesse Revive isn't bad

 

[Yellow Dave]

AF revive is cheap and easy to use but gives good results

i also like GTechniq t1

 

[yellowbelly]

AF revive is cheap and easy to use but gives good results i also like GTechniq t1

Seems a cheap-ish product, how does it compare to Revive?

 

[Cliotoby]

Thanks thats what I wanted to know so long as I wont wake up tomorrow to find its uncovered all the marring and buffer trails ive left like a mong. C2V3 is too expensive - I need a QD for wipedowns and post wash water spots, and the QD will take care of the beading. CQ is only there to stop defects.....

 

[yellowbelly]

The QD I find I'm always picking up the most is Z6.

 

[Cliotoby]

Also I needed to remove a load of marks from the bonnet, I didnt do it for the hell of it! The rest of the car is fine but this is what it looked like. I removed these with Sonax Prep after trying to rub it with reload with no effect. See the left hand side, not the right. They look about twice as bad in real life.

 

[Cliotoby]

The QD I find I'm always picking up the most is Z6.

Doesnt produce enough water behavior for me.

But it is frankly the best detailing spray out there if you dont care for water behavior. Such a pleasure to use.

 

[Detail Chris]

Is CQUK application the same as Gtechniq C1 then? Simple explanation for a simple mind please????

Also can I apply it to exterior trims?

Very easy, do a panel or half a bonnet say at a time. Remove residue nearly immediately remove with provided suede MF. Done! I feel it's easier to use than most other products as you can see where you have applied and its easy on & off. Only thing to be carefull of is contaminants in the air. I only apply ceramic sealants inside, but you dont want grit etc in the coating ideally!
​It can be used on trim but Dlux is far better an cheap enough not to be an issue!

 

[yellowbelly]

Doesnt produce enough water behavior for me.

But it is frankly the best detailing spray out there if you dont care for water behavior. Such a pleasure to use.

Granted it doesn't but for a nice slick finish after your LSP its hard to beat in my eyes

 

[Cliotoby]

Very easy, do a panel or half a bonnet say at a time. Remove residue nearly immediately remove with provided suede MF. Done! I feel it's easier to use than most other products as you can see where you have applied and its easy on & off. Only thing to be carefull of is contaminants in the air. I only apply ceramic sealants inside, but you dont want grit etc in the coating ideally!
​It can be used on trim but Dlux is far better an cheap enough not to be an issue!

Cheers. I managed OK today aside from that mark on my bonnet. What is your take on Sonax Paint Prep (IPA) being ued to remove the marks? Will it uncover the marring CQUK is hiding?

 

[Gally]

Also I needed to remove a load of marks from the bonnet, I didnt do it for the hell of it! The rest of the car is fine but this is what it looked like. I removed these with Sonax Prep after trying to rub it with reload with no effect. See the left hand side, not the right. They look about twice as bad in real life.

That looks like the CQ has cured without being removed. Ie a big f**king deal!

 

[JonnyW]

Cool, thanks chaps. Bought some AF Revive. Will see how it goes.

Also.. Can you put C2V3 on top of a sealant, is that the correct method? I've seen people saying it goes on instead of a sealant/wax.. I thought from reading when I bought it its a spray on after you've done your LSP as a kind of water beading layer.

 

[Chapppers11]

Yea you can put it over most things and on most surfaces, but applying it to a fresh car after polishing will give it the best chance of lasting.

Very easy stuff to use, just spray and buff with a microfibre.

 

[JonnyW]

Excellent. I clayed/IronX/tardis, AF Tripple, FK Sealant.. It yesterday, also have some Blue Velvet I was tempted to put on after the sealant but not sure if it's worth it tbh. Looks like glass at the moment!

Think I'll give it a go over with the C2V3 though, looks like an easy product.

 

[Cliotoby]

That looks like the CQ has cured without being removed. Ie a big f**king deal!

Went out this morning. Paintwork is crystal clear having rubbed it down last night with IPA and retoping with reload last night. Should be fine now.

 

[Jack!]

Odd question; how do people go about detailing on sunny days if they don't have sheltered/inside space? Most products tend to state don't use/apply in direct sunlight, but days where it is neither sunny nor damp and wet in this country are few and far between - I have no access to a garage or the like. Would detailing in the later afternoon be suffice, when the sun is less powerful?

 

[Cliotoby]

Bright sunlight is the worst environment possible. Can you invest in a marquee, perhaps one which doesnt have sides on it? Hardly ideal but trust me it will save you a lot of time and a bad result.

 

[Gally]

Yeah detailing in proper sun will never work mate. Panel are simply too hot at times.

 

[MatthewR]

Odd question; how do people go about detailing on sunny days if they don't have sheltered/inside space? Most products tend to state don't use/apply in direct sunlight, but days where it is neither sunny nor damp and wet in this country are few and far between - I have no access to a garage or the like. Would detailing in the later afternoon be suffice, when the sun is less powerful?

get up really early in order no have it all done before the sun has got too powerful, that way the panels won't be too hot as they haven't been sat in the sun all day!

 

[Yellow Dave]

I finished washing the car at 9.30 this morning. was still too hot by the time I had finished and has left water marks on most panels, luckily nothing major that a QD wipedown won't sort out but by the time I had finished that it was too hot to do any more to it.

 

[Jack!]

So if I wanted to go through all stages, wash, decon, polish, seal etc then I'm gonna have to get up pretty early.

 

[Jaff.]

What finishing polish is best to go for?

i don't know wether to chose menzerna 106fa or 85rd...

also auto finesse revive, worth it for plastics and rubbers? Can I put some reload over this to seal in the look?

got a seat Leon to do on Friday so I want it to be top notch