**Doing cam belt/dephaser question**

[Richard102]

Replacing the belt on my clio 172 cup and iv come accross a problem:
The timing tool that goes in the cams to lock them in place is not lining up on the inlet side, looks like it needs to be rotated anit clockwise. But looking at the dephaser side the marking on the rocker cover to the markings on the dephaser are slightly out and need to go clockwise. I dont want to under the dephaser just in case it needs to locked in place - does it need to be? or if i undo the dephaser pully will it just stay in the same place where it is now? Pictures below.

Also on the dephaser pully there is a marking (left hand side of the white tipex mark) what does this need to be lined up to or doesnt it matter?

Rich

 

[Cupman29]

Your timing is out and that's why it won't go in the slots. The white marks just show that after 2 revolutions they should line up again.

By the sounds of your questions I guess you don't know how to change a cambelt on an F4R!

 

[Richard102]

Your timing is out and that's why it won't go in the slots. The white marks just show that after 2 revolutions they should line up again.

By the sounds of your questions I guess you don't know how to change a cambelt on an F4R!

Yer i know the timings out but i really want to know weather i can remove the belt and the dephase will or wont move??
i know how to change a cambelt!, im just unsure on how these dephaser work when changing the belt??

 

[dencol]

Read the guide!

 

[not normal dan]

Both the exhaust pulley and inlet dephaser need to be loosened to time the f4r up correctly. Neither the crank, exhaust or inlet are keyed (fully floating). Basically remover the dephaser, exhaust pulley and crank and de grease then refit loose so they are free to rotate. Fit new tensioner and idler and fit belt with pulleys loose. Tension belt rotate the belt and pulleys backwards twice via the exhaust pulley with pulley rotating tool. Then refit pulley locking tool to pulley side of engine, remove crank pin and horse shoe. Then tighten all 3 pulleys then turn engine over and try and refit crank pin and horse shoe. That's only a brief description by the way.

 

[Richard102]

Read the guide!

what guide?

 

[Richard102]

Both the exhaust pulley and inlet dephaser need to be loosened to time the f4r up correctly. Neither the crank, exhaust or inlet are keyed (fully floating). Basically remover the dephaser, exhaust pulley and crank and de grease then refit loose so they are free to rotate. Fit new tensioner and idler and fit belt with pulleys loose. Tension belt rotate the belt and pulleys backwards twice via the exhaust pulley with pulley rotating tool. Then refit pulley locking tool to pulley side of engine, remove crank pin and horse shoe. Then tighten all 3 pulleys then turn engine over and try and refit crank pin and horse shoe. That's only a brief description by the way.

thanks for the help mate but unsure why you say rotate the belt and pulleys backwards twice? dont you mean clockwise twice? and using the exhaust pulley shouldn't it be crank?

 

[not normal dan]

what guide?

There's a downloadable PDF somewhere for the genuine Renault manual. The only guide I know of is correct but it says pulleys don't need undoing unless you are changing the dephaser which is INCORRECT !​Also if there's any movement within the dephaser when the belt is of it needs replacing

 

[barnesautos]

HERE

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=437872

 

[not normal dan]

thanks for the help mate but unsure why you say rotate the belt and pulleys backwards twice? dont you mean clockwise twice? and using the exhaust pulley shouldn't it be crank?

Nope your not actually turning the engine over, the engine will be locked at this point. This is just to tension the belt! Tbh you seriously need to look of over the manual, the f4r is very similar to the ford zetec in how you change the belt, it sounds like you may be a little out your depth.

These belts are easy and fairly straight forward providing you have all the correct tooling and procedures!

 

[sam JFM]

At what point in the cambelt change are you?

If you have changed the belt and tensioned correctly then all you need to do to get the cam timing back is:

Lock the pulleys with the correct tool, undo the dephaser then rotate the cam back into place and re torgue the bolt.

Its important to follow the correct tensioning procedure to make sure you have even tension throughout the belt (the rotating it all backwards part)

Edit:

you have to forget about how you would normally fit a cambelt - because nothing has a fixed location as far as the pulleys are concerned.

You setup the cambelt tension without the crank or cam bolts being tight and then torque the bolts up when you are happy (whilst locking the cam pulleys so you dont bend the cams with the horseshoe)

Its not really that hard you just need to have it straight in your head what you need to do.

 

[Dan519]

Locking tool looks flimsy, do you have the other one for th pulley end?

 

[Richard102]

Thanks for all you help lads, I get the bit about loosening the pulleys to take up the Slake in the belt, basically like anyother cam belt that has flouting pulleys. I just really want to know if the dephaser is under any tension when the belt is still on?? So when I remove the belt the dephaser will not need to be preloaded if it does have tension??

The timming tools are AST(I think that's the make lol)

 

[not normal dan]

Thanks for all you help lads, I get the bit about loosening the pulleys to take up the Slake in the belt, basically like anyother cam belt that has flouting pulleys. I just really want to know if the dephaser is under any tension when the belt is still on?? So when I remove the belt the dephaser will not need to be preloaded if it does have tension??

The timming tools are AST(I think that's the make lol)

As I said the dephaser shouldn't have any movement in it when you remove the belt. If it does it'll need replacing!

 

[not normal dan]

This is a picture of all the genuine tooling you need, I paid around 130 for mine.

 

[Dan@SJM]

The timming tools are AST(I think that's the make lol)

Oh dear...

 

[Dan519]

Thanks for all you help lads, I get the bit about loosening the pulleys to take up the Slake in the belt, basically like anyother cam belt that has flouting pulleys. I just really want to know if the dephaser is under any tension when the belt is still on?? So when I remove the belt the dephaser will not need to be preloaded if it does have tension??

The timming tools are AST(I think that's the make lol)

no, it's not going to go anywhere, it only moves under oil pressure, and moved back to locked when pressure drops.


as already said, your locking tools aren't much good, I wouldn't use them.

 

[Richard102]

Oh cheers mate thought they where oil pressure but wasn't sure! thanks