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Drilled/Vented Discs
- Thread starter BrianB
- Start date
Grooved or slotted can be of benefit if you find your brakes tend to squeal a lot. While a few good hard stops from a reasonable speed will clear this up no worries, slotted rotors help to keep the face of the pad clean and fresh thus preventing any build up on the rotors. It also helps to discharge any gas build up between the pad and the rotor under heavy or repetitive braking. Drilled rotors can also help with the gas build up but the primary reason to drill the rotors is to reduce their weight. Air is a rubbish dissipater of heat and is also much harder to grab a hold of (try it yourself with your hand). 
By adding too many grooves or drilling holes in the rotor you are effectively reducing your braking capacity as a trade off for other gains as described above.
Cheers.
By adding too many grooves or drilling holes in the rotor you are effectively reducing your braking capacity as a trade off for other gains as described above.
Cheers.
182cup & 172 racecar
Very good,but you missed out that they are prone to cracking.
Vented/drilled disc's are not needed on a clio.
Vented/drilled disc's are not needed on a clio.
Clio Trophy
i think they would look the balls tho
Drilled rotors especially are prone to fractures around where they are drilled. Slotted not as much.
Cheers.
After having Brembo HC's and max's i'll be saving my money and going for some HC's again, lasted longer and felt like they braked better! Plus the squeeling I got from my pads wasn't as bad.
CBR1K, F21 125D
Depends what its for, I guess.
If your going on track, then uprate to better calipers etc too.
If not, solids or grooved with fast road pads + good lines will be more than enough.
Good fluid is a must too.. RBF etc. And a Brake stopper.
I say go the whole hog...
If your going on track, then uprate to better calipers etc too.
If not, solids or grooved with fast road pads + good lines will be more than enough.
Good fluid is a must too.. RBF etc. And a Brake stopper.
I say go the whole hog...
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As above, surely the extra would be better spent on pads? The brembo max do look nice though, even if any benefit is/maybe pretty negligable.
Of course pads are the way to do to better stopping power, I run Carbone Lorraines RC6's and the stopping power of them is phenominal! Paired with Braided brake lines and decent dot4 fluid means I get no fade even when on track!
p@blo
ClioSport Club Member
Clio/A3
Heard the CLs are pretty good. How you finding disc wear with them? Wouldnt mind trying some pagid blues myself. Just a pity theyre so pricey.
The CL's are awesome end of! Excellent from cold, would go to say there probably better than most warmed up aftermarket pads! I heard people talk about 5 sets of disks to a set of pads, i'm on my second set of disks and they have loads of life left. I've done 5 trackdays and a fair bit of 'fast road' if you call it that and the pads are actually wearing quicker than I thought, but I have done 15k miles on them and as said with hard trackdays included.
Only thing with them is the squeeling, but if you bed them in well with a thorough bedding in process the squeeling isn't as bad.
172 Ph1, Lupo GTI
The CL Brakes RC5+ is more suited for road use. Less wear and no dust and noise.
ime you want to treat the discs as consumables and spend big on the pads... so cheap and nasty plain discs
And no, cheap discs dosent mean warping by default, 95% of 'warped' discs are simply poorly bed in with the pads causing uneven transfer layers to be put on the disc face.
Drilled discs are only 'good' if the drillings are cast in and just tidied up at the machining phase, that way the stress is lower, but then those discs are rare and funking expensive.
And no, cheap discs dosent mean warping by default, 95% of 'warped' discs are simply poorly bed in with the pads causing uneven transfer layers to be put on the disc face.
Drilled discs are only 'good' if the drillings are cast in and just tidied up at the machining phase, that way the stress is lower, but then those discs are rare and funking expensive.
Never tried the RC5+'s but tbh i'm more than happy with the RC6's, prefer more break power than getting maybe an extra couple of thousands miles out of them/dust/squeeling.
172 Ph1, Lupo GTI
The RC6 have a high iron content and thats why they are not wheel friendly, and have a tendency to chew their way through discs when operating cold. The RC5+ are still very good and I supply these to a lot of race teams as well as more normal enthusiasts like you and me, using them for trackdays and road.
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