Right, lets try this again (Just lost my last attempt at replying to this)...
... It could be something as simple as a fuse, a broken wire or the actuator itself but it could also be the UCH at fault. There are some checks you can do yourself to rule some bits out so if you're handy with the tools and have a multi-meter to hand here goes:
- Firstly check all fuses are intact
- Secondly, door car off the offending door and using a multi-meter check for power and earth at the actuator when the door switch on the dash is actuated (You will know the power and earth as they're be the only two thick-ish wires on the actuator).
If you have power/earth
(which will switch when the door is locked/unlocked) then the fault is with the actuator itself... replace it and job done! If however you get nothing then you will have to delve a little deeper and check for any signs of broken wiring to that circuit. The most common place for this kind of breakage occuring is in the flexi-section of the loom in the door hinge area. You will have to remove the outer rubber protection sleave but its easily done without damaging it providing you take you time.
If any wires are broken simply repair them with a good clean solder joint, heat shrink them and retry the switching test again. If it works that's job done and permission to feel manly is granted. If not there is proberbly a good chance that the fault is down to an internal fault on the UCH's PCB and you will need either a CLIP session to confirm or the skills of an auto-spark to find the faulty relay (
Which is fixed to the PCB) and surgically de-solder it/replace it. Failing that, you could always buy a new UCH and have it coded/setup to your car.
We offer both services should you need it and a new N3 UCH is around £330-370 supplied, fitted and coded to your vehicle however we do need your vehicle and any keys you have for it to do this.
Mick
although the alarm does go off..
