Driveshafts

[Gandi69]

In all honestly I’ve not counted them but placing it next to the standard ring there are differing numbers of teeth as they begin to not match up round the circumference. You can see if in the photo to some degree. The thin ring matches the spacing of the Renault ring perfectly, just not in the width of the ring itself

 

[Gandi69]

I went and counted them

44 teeth for the thin ring and the oem old one

52 for the new wider ring

 

[imprezaworks]

Odd. The one that came with mine was correct

 

[bloke]

they've put the wrong ring in the box.

 

[Gandi69]

Odd. The one that came with mine was correct

Was yours the wider one then but with 44 teeth then mate? Not a huge problem I’ll just use the old one as it’s not damaged and looks like it will fit

 

[Gandi69]

they've put the wrong ring in the box.

Yeah looking at it now I’m inclined to agree. Plus the inner cv boot securing ring was on backwards but easily rectified. I might ring them tomorrow see if I can blag a new 44 tooth ring be useful to have a spare

 

[imprezaworks]

Was yours the wider one then but with 44 teeth then mate? Not a huge problem I’ll just use the old one as it’s not damaged and looks like it will fit

Yep the wider one. Give them a ring, chances (hopefully) they will send you one out.

 

[Gandi69]

Thanks I’ll let you know how I get on, pretty thankful the old one is still serviceable if they don’t want to help me out.
What a palaver!

 

[imprezaworks]

Cars generally are.

 

[VR46-G@Z]

Yep I've lost count how many times wrong parts turn up for my cars, and I always wonder why I bother...🙈

 

[Gandi69]

I rang j&r again today just to see what they’d do about the abs ring

The person I spoke to was adamant they didn’t send two abs rings with any drive shafts and they certainly didn’t make a 52 toothed one. Funny that considering their eBay guys said the opposite!
Finally after much back and forth they said they’ll sent another 44 toothed ring so I await the post tomorrow to see what I get.
I’ve fitted the shaft anyway with the old abs ring so If the new one is right it’ll be a spare as I really couldn’t be arsed with my garage stinking of gearbox oil and just generally being a mess.
No real dramas in fitting (touch wood), my torque wrench only goes up to 210nm so I did the hub nut to that then as much as felt safe to do on a 1.5 metre breaker bar, that’ll do hopefully.

 

[imprezaworks]

It’s no wonder their reviews are tragic. The product is good, from experience. They do send two abs rings, they sent two with mine.

7.5mm and 15mm or whatever they are. But definitely two. Did I mention they send two?

 

[STEVE.M]

they certainly didn’t make a 52 toothed one. .

Well they make this fucker, which will also fit a an old Ford Mondeo Mk2.
I`ve no idea if it has the same ID of 74.9mm as a 182.
The t**t`s on the phones have no product knowledge.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-HYU...yundai&hash=item27c299c479:g:cPEAAOSwTO9aO~Wx

 

[Gandi69]

It’s just the after sales really that lacks, clearly someone has researched into the various requirements of the cars they make replacement kit for but none of this seems to be available to the guys who man the phones. It’s probably the system they run being archaic - they can’t find any details about orders or the parts shipped to you from your address etc. You have to give them the invoice number which is only provided on paper with your delivery, it’s not included on any emails to you. If your order didn’t arrive for whatever reason then god knows how they’d sort it!

 

[oreA]

Hey @Gandi69, you’ll see from this thread (https://www.cliosport.net/threads/refitting-driveshaft-advice-please.816538/) that I also ordered J&R shafts and got 2x 44 tooth ABS rings. I needed the narrow one so am left with a spare wider one. Let me know if you want it, it’s of no use to me!

 

[imprezaworks]

Top banana ^

Is it because the products are cheap they just don’t seem to care? I wonder if it was double the price would you still be speaking to ‘give a fook Clive’ (name that came first), unlikely.

 

[Gandi69]

Hey @Gandi69, you’ll see from this thread (https://www.cliosport.net/threads/refitting-driveshaft-advice-please.816538/) that I also ordered J&R shafts and got 2x 44 tooth ABS rings. I needed the narrow one so am left with a spare wider one. Let me know if you want it, it’s of no use to me!

Thanks for the kind offer but I don’t strictly need it as the shaft is on the car now with the old abs ring. I was just trying to blag a spare from j&r to see if they’ll correct their mistake. If anyone wants a 52 tooth abs ring that j&r apparently don’t make let me know [emoji23]

 

[Gandi69]

Well that’s another 52 tooth ring to add to the other one!

 

[STEVE.M]

Well that’s another 52 tooth ring to add to the other one!

Teething problems with AI?

 

[Gandi69]

I bet it simply comes up as the right part on their “system” and they just chuck it in the box. They should rectify this though I don’t think any clios used 52 toothed abs rings do they?

 

[STEVE.M]

I bet it simply comes up as the right part on their “system” and they just chuck it in the box. They should rectify this though I don’t think any clios used 52 toothed abs rings do they?

No, reckon it`s a Hyundai one.
What`s the ID? 72.9mm?

http://anideko.com/catalog.php

 

[oreA]

Or they can’t count....

 

[Gandi69]

First real test drive today as it took it work, all seems alright other than a slight vibration at around 40mph. Could be some crap on the hub face or back of the disk im thinking but only a minor one to sort. Or I’ve lost a wheel weight. I’ll investigate over the weekend

 

[Gandi69]

Ok some more questions from me regarding this issue if I’ve got, which is a vibration/wobble you can feel through the car when travelling about 38-42 mph. No noises or graunching sounds at all when this is happening.

This is what I’ve done:

Changed to another wheel and tyre (balanced)
Checked the hub nu is tight - it is.
Checked for any play in the wheel bearing - I can’t find anything it feels as it did previously
Hub face and inside of disc cleaned with wire brush so they are clean.

All the above have made no difference to the issue



With the car jacked up when I turn the passenger side wheel around by hand I can hear the driveshaft clunking a little in the diff. I’ve heard this before now with the old shaft in I’m sure but this time when turning the wheel I can find some resistance at a certain point and it becomes a bit harder to turn, obviously with the wheel off and doing this by using my hand on the disc I have to extent more force to do so. In fact when turning it you can see the shock absorber compressing a little. Is this normal? I can’t remember what it was like before but I’ve never had any diff or gearbox problems on the car other than swapping this shaft over (because of a cv split boot)
Doing the same on the drivers side wheel spins freely 360 degrees with no resistance

The point above aside,
I’m wondering could the hub/wheel bearing be out of true as I did have to hammer the old shaft out of as it was well seized in the hub. The wheel bearing/hub turns relatively smoothly, well as smooth as one might be with probably 68k on it.

Can anyone shed any light perhaps?
Obviously this is using this new j and r drive shaft

 

[STEVE.M]

Ok some more questions from me regarding this issue if I’ve got, which is a vibration/wobble you can feel through the car when travelling about 38-42 mph. No noises or graunching sounds at all when this is happening.

This is what I’ve done:

Changed to another wheel and tyre (balanced)
Checked the hub nu is tight - it is.
Checked for any play in the wheel bearing - I can’t find anything it feels as it did previously
Hub face and inside of disc cleaned with wire brush so they are clean.

All the above have made no difference to the issue



With the car jacked up when I turn the passenger side wheel around by hand I can hear the driveshaft clunking a little in the diff. I’ve heard this before now with the old shaft in I’m sure but this time when turning the wheel I can find some resistance at a certain point and it becomes a bit harder to turn, obviously with the wheel off and doing this by using my hand on the disc I have to extent more force to do so. In fact when turning it you can see the shock absorber compressing a little. Is this normal? I can’t remember what it was like before but I’ve never had any diff or gearbox problems on the car other than swapping this shaft over (because of a cv split boot)
Doing the same on the drivers side wheel spins freely 360 degrees with no resistance

The point above aside,
I’m wondering could the hub/wheel bearing be out of true as I did have to hammer the old shaft out of as it was well seized in the hub. The wheel bearing/hub turns relatively smoothly, well as smooth as one might be with probably 68k on it.

Can anyone shed any light perhaps?
Obviously this is using this new j and r drive shaft

Take the caliper off to eliminate anything to do with the brakes.

 

[Gandi69]

it still does the resistance thing with no caliper or disc on however im wondering now if it could be a warped disc? After all the wheel bolts go through the disc doesn't they. Having said that they werent warped before this whole thing.
When i say there is resistance to turning the drivers side wheel was on the floor when I did it - i've not done it with both sides off the floor I dont think.
I wouldnt have thought hammering the shaft out of the bearing would have warped or damaged it would it? After all they have to be pressed out

 

[Gandi69]

Ive found an older set of brembo HC discs in my parts bin so I guess I could pop them on and see if it goes away.
Just concerned about this resistance issue as Im not sure if thats normal due to the diff. After all when driving the i'd have thought if the hub was jiggered it'd be all the time not just at a certain speed
maybe im wrong though

 

[STEVE.M]

Ive found an older set of brembo HC discs in my parts bin so I guess I could pop them on and see if it goes away.
Just concerned about this resistance issue as Im not sure if thats normal due to the diff. After all when driving the i'd have thought if the hub was jiggered it'd be all the time not just at a certain speed
maybe im wrong though

If removing the caliper has made no difference, then it`s not brake related.
Just put it back on as was.

I would check that the two grub screws do not sit proud of the disc though.

I suspect the vibration may be a byproduct of the J&R not having the rubber balancer on the shaft.

I`d put it back together and drive a few hundred miles to see how things develop, or bed in & disappear.

 

[Gandi69]

screws are sitting nice and flush, i did notice that the shaft didnt have the balancing donut on it which the OEM one had. well Its all back together now, I cant feel any play anywhere as I said. I think the resistance thing is just me being a fanny as it drives nicely other than this wobble - it'd have s**t itself big style if it was having big problems with the shaft in the 25 miles ive done today I suppose
A change of discs shouldn't take me long I think I will do that as those brembos are in decent shape that'd rule out a warped disc to hub mounting face or whatever.

 

[oreA]

I suspect the vibration may be a byproduct of the J&R not having the rubber balancer on the shaft.

Is it possible to transfer the old rubber balancer to the new shaft, or does each shaft need a specific weight and/or positioned balancer?

 

[Gandi69]

Is it possible to transfer the old rubber balancer to the new shaft, or does each shaft need a specific weight and/or positioned balancer?

id say it'd not fit this new shaft if im honest as the diamater of the shaft itself looks different

 

[flebay]

I suspect the vibration may be a byproduct of the J&R not having the rubber balancer on the shaft.

Its a large lump off lead with a rubber inner sleeve to hold it in place.

 

[Gandi69]

surely J&R shafts must be balanced in a different way and thusly not need this weight?

 

[oreA]

I’m still to do my J&R nearside shaft, and this is making me apprehensive :grimacing:🙈.

The offside one has been on for about 200 miles now and has been trouble free so far.

 

[oreA]

surely J&R shafts must be balanced in a different way and thusly not need this weight?

I hope 😅

 

[STEVE.M]

Is it possible to transfer the old rubber balancer to the new shaft, or does each shaft need a specific weight and/or positioned balancer?

Good question, and well worth a try.
I think it`s purpose may be gyroscopic, not a specific balance.
If you can slice it and refit in the same position on the shaft with a dab of super glue, or even a couple of cable ties at 180 degrees to each other to maintain some semblance of balance.

 

[Gandi69]

All i can do is swap the disc now to rule that out, If it isnt that then ts either got to a be a knackered hub or wheel bearing (surely that'd be noisy and not silent like it currently is) or a shaft. I hope its not either of the latter!

 

[oreA]

@Gandi69, why did you need to change your shaft tonguewink in the first place?

 

[Gandi69]

perished CV gaitor so it really should have been a easy change but the old cv joint didnt feel too brilliant so I figured I'd just change the shaft rather than change the cv (after seeing the price of these J&R ones)

 

[flebay]

got to a be a knackered hub or wheel bearing

You would have to be very bad at repairing cars to damage these whilst replacing a drive shaft.
Good chance the shaft is faulty, I would order another and send the wobbler back.