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Engine rebuild tolerances
- Thread starter Tomo3292
- Start date
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Ask @bloke or @NorthloopCup nicely and they might tell you.
@bloke @NorthloopCup,
Morning gents I've heard anytime your the 2 go guys on here, with outrageous knowledge on the little clios.
I am contemplating doing a full engine rebuild, but after the tolerances mentioned above. Where am I likely to find these and can you shed any light on its worth doing the following.
Piston rings placement
Main bearings
Big end bearngs
Thrust washers
New pulleys and belts
New gaskets
New stem seals
Relap valves
Maybe looking at potentially some head work too, thinking of a skim, porting and polishing, and maybe some cat cams.
I'm pretty handy with the spanners, I have bore measuring device and also micrometer so I can do the measuring, just want to make sure it's done correctly.
Your help and advice would be greatly appreciated
Morning gents I've heard anytime your the 2 go guys on here, with outrageous knowledge on the little clios.
I am contemplating doing a full engine rebuild, but after the tolerances mentioned above. Where am I likely to find these and can you shed any light on its worth doing the following.
Piston rings placement
Main bearings
Big end bearngs
Thrust washers
New pulleys and belts
New gaskets
New stem seals
Relap valves
Maybe looking at potentially some head work too, thinking of a skim, porting and polishing, and maybe some cat cams.
I'm pretty handy with the spanners, I have bore measuring device and also micrometer so I can do the measuring, just want to make sure it's done correctly.
Your help and advice would be greatly appreciated
Think everything is in the factory manual? Can download it easy enough. If not though you're just working to 'normal clearances etc.
With ring gaps majority of the time I've found they are pretty much ok out of the box but obviously that can vary from make to make and also bore wear.
With ring gaps majority of the time I've found they are pretty much ok out of the box but obviously that can vary from make to make and also bore wear.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
@NorthloopCup thank you very much. Knew I seen it before, but couldn't find it at all when I needed it.
Only thing that worries is I've heard these engine can have dramas with spinning the 3rd bearing and I'm also hoping when I measure the crank end float the thrust washers I can use are standard size.
Only thing that worries is I've heard these engine can have dramas with spinning the 3rd bearing and I'm also hoping when I measure the crank end float the thrust washers I can use are standard size.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Post a pic up of your crank mate and I’ll be able to tell you how likely it is to happen.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
The design more than anything mate.
Will do mate when I get the time looli g at starting the rebuild within the next month as currently in romania with work.
bozothenutter
ClioSport Club Member
how hard would it be to have the block and tods tanged?
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
No problem for a decent machinist.
@NorthloopCup crwnk measured with a micrometer and all within tolerances. No deep scoring or pitting anyway, just a few dull shiny marks on the surface. I'm going to get it nicely polished up. Any pros to running King Bearings for a standard build? Probably get some cams and port matched inlets but that about it. Or is it best to stick a set on oe renault bearings in.
Attachments
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
King bearings have larger tolerances iirc as they’re more race biased, so you’re better off with standard bearings. Also, that crank is one of the ones that will potentially spin a centre main. All luck of the draw though I’m afraid.
@NorthloopCup how do you work that one out mate? Is it due to the oil holes in the crank? Surely the best way would be to get tanged and better bearings? Or just try my luck with OE Bearings.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
It’s due to the lack of counterbalance weights on the crank mate.
If it’s going to spin, the tags on the block/rods won’t stop it. The crank flexes due to the poor design.
Trust me mate, I’ve been around these engines now for quite some time, so I know their downfalls.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
bozothenutter
ClioSport Club Member
So the 'good' crank is the 197 one right?
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
So the ph1 crank is the best crank. Then the 197, and followed by the 182 crank. The ph2 172 crank is still rubbish.
bozothenutter
ClioSport Club Member
Thanks!, I'll get it right someday....🙄
Any such difference in blocks?
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
The best blocks are the ones that have seen some heat cycles. Then they need checking for straightness of bores and journals, and machining if they’re out.
