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Megane r26
Yeah just unbolt everything you can pretty much, get the bay as empty of other stuff as possible first before you start swinging the engine around.
Its properly close on the chassis rails too, ideally its a 2 man job so one can swing the engine about while the other jacks the crane up and down.
yeah this is good as the replacement engine the guy said he couldnt get it out the top but hes unbolted the gearbox!
i dont mind removing the front end as im a panel and paint man so no probs there and my mechanic will be doing the engine!!! just worried me when the guy said he couldnt get it out the top but thats explains it if hes left the box in!!!
i dont mind removing the front end as im a panel and paint man so no probs there and my mechanic will be doing the engine!!! just worried me when the guy said he couldnt get it out the top but thats explains it if hes left the box in!!!
SQ5
I should really do a guide for this next time, I'll try remember now though.
Jack car up and remove wheels.
Disconnect battery and remove.
Remove front bumper, headlights, front cross member and grille.
Drain gearbox and engine oil and put plugs back in.
Drain coolant by undoing top and bottom hose on the radiator with a pair of mole grips.
Unplug radiator, temp switch and aircon plugs.
Undo pipes to aircon radiator, this may piss out some nice green gas so beware, it may make you jump.
Undo small 8/10mm bolt holding PAS pipe to assembly.
Remove radiator and fan assembly.
Remove remaining aircon pipes just so they're out the way.
Undo 3 x 10mm nuts/bolts holding ECU and bracket in, undo plug and remove as one.
Undo 30mm driveshaft nut, this can be done at the beginning when car is on floor if you can get through centre cap, if not, impact gun or someone inside car using the brakes.
Undo 21mm nut/washer on top of struts, easier done with an impact gun.
Undo two 21mm bolts for the shock to hub assembly and pull out shock.
Remove drivers side shaft off of gearbox then pull out of hub.
Undo 3 x 13mm bolts on passenger side shaft, pull out of the hub first and then gearbox.
Undo 16mm bolt passenger side at the front of the subframe that holds the lower gearbox mount on.
Undo rear gearbox to subframe mount, Ph1 is two 16mm nut and bolts, unsure of Ph2, slightly different mount.
If on a Ph1 it's worth removing the actual mount from the gearbox as this can knock the PAS pipes.
Undo 13mm gear linkage nut, worth marking linkage as its a b*****d to get back on.
Back up top and remove 16mm nut from drivers side top engine mount.
Unplug loom plugs from top inlet. Throttle body, coil pack, map sensor, air temp sensor and ICV if Ph1. Also remove brake servo pipe and FPR vacuum hose if Ph1.
Remove top inlet, 7 x 10mm bolts.
Block up breather hole and 4 inlet holes, best using duck tape.
Undo 2 x 13mm nuts on fuel rail guard.
Unclip fuel lines and pull right out of the way.
You can now remove 9 x 10mm manifold nuts.
Undo clamp on water pump main pipe, thermostat pipe, expansion bottle x 2, top of thermostat housing, rear of thermostat housing and remove expansion bottle, 2 x 10mm nuts.
Now the two that go to the heater matrix are tough, you should be able to just push the two tabs in either side and pull off, but this is never the case. It's worth pulling and pulling until the pipe comes off and out and then you can remove these clamps. I'd then replace with some more constant tension clamps or jubilee clips.
That should now be all coolant pipes out the way.
Undo 19mm (?) nut assembly in the high pressure PAS line and un clip PAS switch plug, you'll need maybe a small jug just to catch fluid. Also undo constant tension clamp to the other line and pull off and bung some tissue in to catch any fluid. The flexible hose can now be moved out the way by putting under window wiper.
Pull out clutch cable and pull through passenger side wheel arch.
Undo 16mm bolt holding PAS pipe to gearbox.
Then in passenger side wheel arch undo 16mm bolt holding the thick earth strap to gearbox.
Unplug reverse switch and tuck into engine bay.
Open fuse box and unclip all 5 fuse holders and fuses, take a photo to remind what goes where.
Undo big white plug, plug that goes to ABS unit and unclip bank of relays and pull out of fuse box. Will also be a 13mm bolt holding the earth on just behind passenger side headlight.
Undo 4 x 13mm bolts that hold battery tray to chassis.
Undo 3 x 16mm bolts that hold battery tray to gearbox.
Undo 13/16mm(?) bolt on side of gearbox at the top holding PAS line on and pull line into arch out of the way.
Unplug lambda sensor(s) towards rear of engine bay.
Hook your engine crane up to the rear hoist mount on driver side and one on the front of the head. I usually wrap a chain around thermostat and secure it there but I take no responsibility in case it breaks!
When lifting gearbox will then drop and engine out at an angle.
I think that's everything, I may of missed little bits out but that's a fairly comprehensive guide from memory!
Jack car up and remove wheels.
Disconnect battery and remove.
Remove front bumper, headlights, front cross member and grille.
Drain gearbox and engine oil and put plugs back in.
Drain coolant by undoing top and bottom hose on the radiator with a pair of mole grips.
Unplug radiator, temp switch and aircon plugs.
Undo pipes to aircon radiator, this may piss out some nice green gas so beware, it may make you jump.
Undo small 8/10mm bolt holding PAS pipe to assembly.
Remove radiator and fan assembly.
Remove remaining aircon pipes just so they're out the way.
Undo 3 x 10mm nuts/bolts holding ECU and bracket in, undo plug and remove as one.
Undo 30mm driveshaft nut, this can be done at the beginning when car is on floor if you can get through centre cap, if not, impact gun or someone inside car using the brakes.
Undo 21mm nut/washer on top of struts, easier done with an impact gun.
Undo two 21mm bolts for the shock to hub assembly and pull out shock.
Remove drivers side shaft off of gearbox then pull out of hub.
Undo 3 x 13mm bolts on passenger side shaft, pull out of the hub first and then gearbox.
Undo 16mm bolt passenger side at the front of the subframe that holds the lower gearbox mount on.
Undo rear gearbox to subframe mount, Ph1 is two 16mm nut and bolts, unsure of Ph2, slightly different mount.
If on a Ph1 it's worth removing the actual mount from the gearbox as this can knock the PAS pipes.
Undo 13mm gear linkage nut, worth marking linkage as its a b*****d to get back on.
Back up top and remove 16mm nut from drivers side top engine mount.
Unplug loom plugs from top inlet. Throttle body, coil pack, map sensor, air temp sensor and ICV if Ph1. Also remove brake servo pipe and FPR vacuum hose if Ph1.
Remove top inlet, 7 x 10mm bolts.
Block up breather hole and 4 inlet holes, best using duck tape.
Undo 2 x 13mm nuts on fuel rail guard.
Unclip fuel lines and pull right out of the way.
You can now remove 9 x 10mm manifold nuts.
Undo clamp on water pump main pipe, thermostat pipe, expansion bottle x 2, top of thermostat housing, rear of thermostat housing and remove expansion bottle, 2 x 10mm nuts.
Now the two that go to the heater matrix are tough, you should be able to just push the two tabs in either side and pull off, but this is never the case. It's worth pulling and pulling until the pipe comes off and out and then you can remove these clamps. I'd then replace with some more constant tension clamps or jubilee clips.
That should now be all coolant pipes out the way.
Undo 19mm (?) nut assembly in the high pressure PAS line and un clip PAS switch plug, you'll need maybe a small jug just to catch fluid. Also undo constant tension clamp to the other line and pull off and bung some tissue in to catch any fluid. The flexible hose can now be moved out the way by putting under window wiper.
Pull out clutch cable and pull through passenger side wheel arch.
Undo 16mm bolt holding PAS pipe to gearbox.
Then in passenger side wheel arch undo 16mm bolt holding the thick earth strap to gearbox.
Unplug reverse switch and tuck into engine bay.
Open fuse box and unclip all 5 fuse holders and fuses, take a photo to remind what goes where.
Undo big white plug, plug that goes to ABS unit and unclip bank of relays and pull out of fuse box. Will also be a 13mm bolt holding the earth on just behind passenger side headlight.
Undo 4 x 13mm bolts that hold battery tray to chassis.
Undo 3 x 16mm bolts that hold battery tray to gearbox.
Undo 13/16mm(?) bolt on side of gearbox at the top holding PAS line on and pull line into arch out of the way.
Unplug lambda sensor(s) towards rear of engine bay.
Hook your engine crane up to the rear hoist mount on driver side and one on the front of the head. I usually wrap a chain around thermostat and secure it there but I take no responsibility in case it breaks!
When lifting gearbox will then drop and engine out at an angle.
I think that's everything, I may of missed little bits out but that's a fairly comprehensive guide from memory!
excellent!!! thats a great help!!!! think i will stick to taking the bumper and slam of aand pass that lot on to the mechanic and go to the pub and call me when hes done!!!!
yeah!!! think ill print that off!!!!
incy-spider
ClioSport Club Member
s**t man don't just pull the a/c pipes off without taking the gas out first. You could get serious frost bite if that gas gets your fingers! If you are just gonna do it than at least wear some Fluoroelastomer gloves and watch your eyes!!
Sound like a nagging parent but I have seen first hand what can happen!
Sound like a nagging parent but I have seen first hand what can happen!
dont worry mate weve got air eqiupment!!!
somone who knows!!!!!!
right![
no blue smoke on start up so prob not stem seals????
got oil sitting on no1 and a little on no2 pistons no3 and 4 are fine! but no1 spark plug really fu**ed!!! but not black its burnt!overfuel????got an engine to go in but why has this happend! engine done 46k with history? when cold runs crap but when warm flat down doww and wanting but then goes!!!!
what you think???QUOTE=Fred@BTM;8687635]Rings gone on a 182? You sure????[/QUOTE]
right![
no blue smoke on start up so prob not stem seals????
got oil sitting on no1 and a little on no2 pistons no3 and 4 are fine! but no1 spark plug really fu**ed!!! but not black its burnt!overfuel????got an engine to go in but why has this happend! engine done 46k with history? when cold runs crap but when warm flat down doww and wanting but then goes!!!!
what you think???QUOTE=Fred@BTM;8687635]Rings gone on a 182? You sure????[/QUOTE]
no! any need?
you know these engines what do you think? its smoking bad! if compression fine what?
blocked breather?
you know these engines what do you think? its smoking bad! if compression fine what?
blocked breather?
perhaps it maybe best tolist the problems with my current engine and see what you all think!!!
firstly its burning oil!!alot!!blue smoke when putting your foot down,
its fells like its wanting low down in the reves and had a borescore in the cylinders and no1 piston is very shiney and the plug is nackered 300 miles!and theres oil sittig on the piston!!
no2 is going the same way but not as bad!!no3 and 4 are fine!
having a compression test tomorroow and see what this shows!
no1 is washing the bore which points to timing issue but belts done 300 miles ago and timing was miles out so it was put right???
could my car have been mapped in the past and the timing was correct in the first place and now its out??
i know i needto take the head off really to get a full picture!!!
firstly its burning oil!!alot!!blue smoke when putting your foot down,
its fells like its wanting low down in the reves and had a borescore in the cylinders and no1 piston is very shiney and the plug is nackered 300 miles!and theres oil sittig on the piston!!
no2 is going the same way but not as bad!!no3 and 4 are fine!
having a compression test tomorroow and see what this shows!
no1 is washing the bore which points to timing issue but belts done 300 miles ago and timing was miles out so it was put right???
could my car have been mapped in the past and the timing was correct in the first place and now its out??
i know i needto take the head off really to get a full picture!!!
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