Febi lower balljoint fitted, now clunking ...

[guysy]

Before my MOT I decided to change the lower ball joints to fresh ones, being pre MOT and tight I bought 2 of the cheaper type on Euro car parts, I've read varying reviews on the cheaper type that they do the job but just don't last as long as Lemforder. But seeing as they where 17 a pair on discount I ordered them up.

The MOT passed without me bothering to change the ball joints but I thought I'd change them anyway. After having fun with the drivers pinch bolt being stuck I eventually changed just the drivers side for now, haven't really had time to do the passenger side, but just with the drivers side thats been changed it is now clunking on full lock.

Ive read to check the alignment after fitting lower ball joints but what can be adjusted? there straight bolt on?

Has anyone had this problem with the cheaper brands? do i just need alignment re doing or do I have a faulty / s**t ball joint? the brand is Febi. Kept the original wishbone bolts and just used a new pinch bolt and new nyloc nuts on the old bolts.

 

[Mr R.]

Ive just fitted a pair of Lemforder ball joints but used the new bolts, there is forward and backward movment in the bolt holes so i set mine wtih the ball joint forwards.
Its not a problem for me tbh as ive fitted a set of coilovers so my car will be off to have a full wheel allingment very soon.

Scott

 

[guysy]

So the lemforders can be adjusted slightly? I haven't checked but the holes on the ball joints I have look snug to the bolts so I'm not sure about movement.

I think they might just be s**t quality, may whack the old one back on for now.

Could it be now the lower joint is new its making the top mount clunk?

 

[Fred@BTM]

febi are good quality, nothing wrong there, did you fit 12mm or 10mm?

 

[guysy]

Is that the hole size on the ball joints or the size of the bolts? I guess there 12mm, the hole closest to the moving joint is about 11.78mm the hole at the end is 12.31mm, pretty much the same size as the old one.

 

[_WILL_]

Sorry to hijack. I am about to change them on my 172 CUP and want to avoid any issues. Should they be 12mm or 10mm. Both sizes seem to come up for the car on when searching online?

Thanks,
Will

 

[Rob]

12mm on RS clio's, I don't think the Cup is any different.

 

[_WILL_]

12mm on RS clio's, I don't think the Cup is any different.

Thank you,

 

[guysy]

Received my new tyres today so the plan is to fit the other side ball joint then have the tyres fitted and alignment checked.

On full lock moving forward it feels like the right wheel (the only one with a new ball joint so far) is locking/skipping?

I've briefly read about the alignment side of things and although the ball joint cant be aligned anything other than minimal movement? if the old lowers where nakered, the last time the alignment was carried out it would have matched the nakered ball joint, so with the new one fitted the alignment could be out a fair bit?

 

[guysy]

Can anyone help me on the alignment side of things?

 

[_WILL_]

Get the ball joint swapped so you are running two new ones. Then get a wheel alignment done. If you still have issues then there is something more needed but until then you are running a car that almost certainly has its wheels misaligned. That might be why you are getting scrubbing. Not sure why it would be locking tbh. Do you mean the wheel stops turning at full lock?

 

[guysy]

Ok yeah I will do that, I'll fit the balljoint on sunday and get the tyres fitted and alignment checked after.

It feels like the right wheel is either possibly scrubbing, it feels like somethings catching at a certain point when moving forward, but only on full lock, Ive had a look at the flap on the arch liner and its not that.