For those that have relocated their batteries..

[EVO 4LEX]

I've done endless searches on battery relocation and am struggling to find a neat distribution block that the stock fused +12v fits into..

If you have a good solution can you please post pictures and links to where you got your distribution block.

Cheers

 

[NorthloopCup]

I've done endless searches on battery relocation and am struggling to find a neat distribution block that the stock fused +12v fits into..

If you have a good solution can you please post pictures and links to where you got your distribution block.

Cheers

Unfortunately mate there isn't one, or I'm certainly not aware of one. All assuming your on about the fusible link - which I'm pretty sure you are.
Best thing to do is cut it off and use a new terminal on it. The fuse is only there for if your 12v + supply goes direct to earth. I don't run one on mine.

 

[EVO 4LEX]

Yes that's right! I've seen distribution blocks with the sides cut off and all sorts and it's just not nice.. I'll probably do as you have done and chop it out then.

Then just prey I dont get a direct short! 🙈

 

[NorthloopCup]

Yes that's right! I've seen distribution blocks with the sides cut off and all sorts and it's just not nice.. I'll probably do as you have done and chop it out then.

Then just prey I dont get a direct short! 🙈

Just make sure your wiring is nicely secured and if in doubt, cover it in something to help protect it in the worst areas.

It's only there for a front end impact mate in my opinion. Sparks and fuel don't really tend to be a match made in heaven! Lol!!

 

[EVO 4LEX]

Yeah sound job, thanks! I'm gonna have a mega fuse next to the battery at the back and run into a distribution block at the front so all the wiring should be protected anyway.

Thanks for the advice :up:

 

[NorthloopCup]

Yeah sound job, thanks! I'm gonna have a mega fuse next to the battery at the back and run into a distribution block at the front so all the wiring should be protected anyway.

Thanks for the advice :up:

Yeah mega fuse is the way to go mate. Don't go too big on the fuse size though. 175amp should be enough. I think that's what's on mine tbh.

Also, get the longacre through panel connection. Very good and not expensive. Mine runs through at the passenger side of the bulkhead.

No worries! Happy to help! :up:

 

[eon172]

Here's how I did mine, connector block in original battery location, new battery behind passenger seat (although I need to relocate it further back as the passenger seat is to far forward)...

 

[eon172]

BTW, I went with a three way block purely due to the size of existing mega fuse and cable termination, as I didn't want to snip them off. It just squeezes in on an angle. I can dig out my parts supplier but they're fairly common components.

 

[EVO 4LEX]

Yeah I noticed it was a three way! Thanks for the reply! Like you say all those bits are readily available.

 

[MarkX]

mine, fusible link removed and mega fuse (175a) at the battery behind the passenger seat

 

[cs_dave]

Wheres best place to earth to when in the boot?

I earthed to the earth point at the lights n got slow crank and clock reset so mines bk under the bonnet atm

 

[NorthloopCup]

Wheres best place to earth to when in the boot?

I earthed to the earth point at the lights n got slow crank and clock reset so mines bk under the bonnet atm

Just make a fresh earth point mate and make sure the metal is clean. Mines earthed out in the thread for the passenger side seat belt and I have no issues. The size of the cable will also have a big impact on the cranking speed.

 

[cs_dave]

Just make a fresh earth point mate and make sure the metal is clean. Mines earthed out in the thread for the passenger side seat belt and I have no issues. The size of the cable will also have a big impact on the cranking speed.

Cheers will have a look asking a mate of mine to rip out the live n earth from a bmw lol

 

[EVO 4LEX]

Cheers will have a look asking a mate of mine to rip out the live n earth from a bmw lol

That's exactly what I've got! Got mine out of an e36!

Started with the relocation this evening. I intended to put the pc680 behind the passenger seat but my mark fish motorsport seat frames won't facilitate that so its now going in the spare wheel well. Will be earthing off one of the old isofix/seat bolts.

 

[sonny172cup]

Wheres best place to earth to when in the boot?

I earthed to the earth point at the lights n got slow crank and clock reset so mines bk under the bonnet atm

There is a threaded hole about 3" from the rear light earth point, from memory i think its a 13mm bolt, just get a file and clean the area, maybe use a small penny washer to make a solid connection...job done.

 

[cs_dave]

There is a threaded hole about 3" from the rear light earth point, from memory i think its a 13mm bolt, just get a file and clean the area, maybe use a small penny washer to make a solid connection...job done.

Cheers will have a look its a daily drive so no rush but want the bat gone as there ugly to look at lol

 

[sonny172cup]

Ok, you can see the location point in this pic.

 

[cs_dave]

Ok, you can see the location point in this pic.

Spot on that cheers

 

[JACAM]

Ran my cable from the boot under the door sill plastics. New hole and grommet through the passenger well (ft wheel and arch plastics removed) up under the washer tank (wipers removed) and into the fuse area. 25mm2 automotive cable.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Stick 172]

Why not use a decent circuit breaker over a fuse ? Easier to reset a breaker than replace a fuse when out and about, should it pop!

 

[JACAM]

Good idea that. Will ask the sparky at work. Probably cost more for a CB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Stick 172]

Plenty around for next to nothing. Good old EBay or 12v world online.

 

[eon172]

Just to follow up on my install, might be useful to someone reading this in the future.

After going with a lower seat sub-frame on the passenger side, and with a fire extinguisher already installed closely in front of that seat, the position of the seat ended up too upright and uncomfortable. I couldn't move or lean it any further back without it hitting the battery cage. So with a couple of strips of alu I managed to gain a couple more nches and without having to drill more holes into the floor pan too. It also makes the battery easier to unbolt and remove if needed (as its bolted to the alu strips which are in turn bolted to the floor pan). This gave me enough space to get the fixed seat into a better position and angle.

 

[Akay]

What is the 'cartek' thing on the battery?

 

[NorthloopCup]

What is the 'cartek' thing on the battery?

It's an isolator mate

 

[Akay]

Ah I see. Is it worth having something like that? Relocated mine a while ago and when its standing for a few weeks I tend to just disconnect the negative.

 

[eon172]

Ah I see. Is it worth having something like that? Relocated mine a while ago and when its standing for a few weeks I tend to just disconnect the negative.

This is just an electronic version of what's needed to meet MSA regs (mechanical switch being the cheaper alternative), but it is useful to trigger it when I leave the car stored for some time. I still have to top up the battery on the charger/conditioner over longer periods though, the electronic isolators do still consume a v.small but constant trickle of current when in the triggered state, but these disconnect both +ve and -ve when doing so.

http://www.cartekmotorsport.com/battery_isolators.html