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Going to see this valver in the next hour, anything to look for?
- Thread starter Paddy_g46
- Start date
rear arch rust, sill rust, door rust, bootlid rust (wiper and drainage holes) leaky sunroof, mayo in oil cap. oil pressure reading on car, gearstick movement on let off of accelerator (worn rear engine mount) any knocks bangs ect, waggle steering when driving to check for play in the column joint. heatshields are in place (starter and manifold)
Rust on the rear archs
Rust ont he back of the boot (they all do it though) rust on the bottom of the drivers doors plus the sills.
Damaged jacking points/bent sills.
Check the PAS pumps Ok (if its ok then its got to be faulty they all are bad)
Check for play in the stearing column (common problme easy ish fix just get it welded)
Check the electrics
Check the rear brakes + handbrake preferably on a hill if so its worth £1million
Check for service hisotry and oil level plus all gauages work (oil level only works for a few second)
check the oil pressures good (3.5bar at 3k or so) check it does up and down with the revs (abeilty slowy its no instant response)
Check the car idles and start from both cold and hot.
Check to see if they have both keys. (pain to replace as there expensive)
Check the car drives an brakes in a straight line (hand braking)
Check the sunroof leaks as it should do on the electronics (joke but they all do)
Lift off throttle at high repm check for smoke backfires etc. Engine quite bulletprof though. Aso check when you lift off it don't knock out of gear but its easy fix just new mount.
Check heat shield is there its very important to be there £50 new.
Rust ont he back of the boot (they all do it though) rust on the bottom of the drivers doors plus the sills.
Damaged jacking points/bent sills.
Check the PAS pumps Ok (if its ok then its got to be faulty they all are bad)
Check for play in the stearing column (common problme easy ish fix just get it welded)
Check the electrics
Check the rear brakes + handbrake preferably on a hill if so its worth £1million
Check for service hisotry and oil level plus all gauages work (oil level only works for a few second)
check the oil pressures good (3.5bar at 3k or so) check it does up and down with the revs (abeilty slowy its no instant response)
Check the car idles and start from both cold and hot.
Check to see if they have both keys. (pain to replace as there expensive)
Check the car drives an brakes in a straight line (hand braking)
Check the sunroof leaks as it should do on the electronics (joke but they all do)
Lift off throttle at high repm check for smoke backfires etc. Engine quite bulletprof though. Aso check when you lift off it don't knock out of gear but its easy fix just new mount.
Check heat shield is there its very important to be there £50 new.
Ren Clio 1.8 16v
sounds like u covered every thing i looked at wen i bort mine but i didnt check boot seal and that leaks lol ermm let us no how it goes 
Paddy_g46
ClioSport Club Member
well u lot posted 2 late:rasp: but im gonna go back for another look, the interior is mint leather when i say mint i mean it! not a single hairline crack in the door cards! the engine pulls well and gears are easy, but the clutch pedal is very heavy! he says he has just changed the clutch cable i think (and btw i know that clios have heavy clutches but this 1 was fooking heavy lol) there is no rust at all on the arches he showed me a very tiny bit of bubbling on the rear wiper bit, original alloys look ok, new tyres all around, he says he will do the cambelt b4 sale as the service history doesnt mention this thats all i can think of really,
oh and the oil pressure gauge was sitting under mid-way after 10 min drive is that ok?
oh and the oil pressure gauge was sitting under mid-way after 10 min drive is that ok?
under mid-way at idle? or when driving? Should be near the middle when driving, yes, but at idle they often fall to near zero, which isn't anything to worry about really as most do it lol
Clutch cable could be routed wrongly if it's reeeeally heavy, but without getting it on ramps and knowing what you're looking for I don't think you'd be able to check it.
re: the cambelt, get a quote from someone good and then ask to knock the money off it - better to know it's been done and done well, rather than being told it's been done then have it go bang later! lol
Clutch cable could be routed wrongly if it's reeeeally heavy, but without getting it on ramps and knowing what you're looking for I don't think you'd be able to check it.
re: the cambelt, get a quote from someone good and then ask to knock the money off it - better to know it's been done and done well, rather than being told it's been done then have it go bang later! lol
Its supposed to be 3.5 bar at 3k but using the wrong filters and wrong oil messes about with that should drop away to about .5 bar at idle. The biggest thing is check the pump works and the gauge works and it does up and down (abelityl slowly) as the engine geoes to higher resv some pumps are better than oithers some copy cat parts are useless checp copied that shoulnd't be used as they restrict oil and old oil or the wrong type causes poor pressure.
Clutch might be worn if its the stock its a risk you'll have to be with there not light though. there heavier than the Mk2 stuff.
Paddy_g46
ClioSport Club Member
has any1 got a pic of a oil gauge and ill tell you where it was at?
the clutch did seem 2 bite ok but i didnt really give the car a good going over i just span it round the block and had a butchers with a torch. might ring him now and go with the checklist at the top 2morow.
the clutch did seem 2 bite ok but i didnt really give the car a good going over i just span it round the block and had a butchers with a torch. might ring him now and go with the checklist at the top 2morow.
I think the middle is about 3 bar.
look in the daylight, crazy man! lol
left to right is:
oil level in the engine (pops up when you turn the ignition key on but then switches off again) - it should be at the very top as any less means you're not running with the max amount possible, and valvers don't like being low on oil...
Oil temperature - should be in the middle most of the time, rising to about 110-120 on a high speed run (but lower = better generally)
Oil pressure - that looks about right for idle but it should be near the figure in the middle of the dial when driving
oil level in the engine (pops up when you turn the ignition key on but then switches off again) - it should be at the very top as any less means you're not running with the max amount possible, and valvers don't like being low on oil...
Oil temperature - should be in the middle most of the time, rising to about 110-120 on a high speed run (but lower = better generally)
Oil pressure - that looks about right for idle but it should be near the figure in the middle of the dial when driving
Agree, very easy for someone to say they have changed the belt without even touching it.
Mat.
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