Grinding noise???

[RobMorris]

Hello

Just took my new valver around the block after giving it a good thorough clean through. As i drive there is a loud grinding noise. id say it is coming from the front? car has been sitting a while?

I dont think its the brakes?

maybe wheel bearings?

The sound is constantly there, as i drive faster the noise gets louder and the weering sound gets faster also?

it doesnt change when cornering, just the same old grind?

please help!!

Cheers Rob

 

[TomTom]

From what you've described I'd say wheel bearing. Get the front of the car jacked up and on axle stands mate. Then spin up the wheels in turn as fast as you can, you should be able to hear one side is grinding/louder than the other. Easy job at a garage to change, most places would have it done in less than half an hour.

 

[RobMorris]

Anyone off the forum near grays, essex that can change my bearings for cheap?

 

[edde]

You need a garage to change the bearing over since you need a press to push new ones in.

 

[heathbrowning]

Was it grinding before you parked it up and cleaned it? If not then its very stange if its the wheel bearing as they tend to start really quiet and get louder gradually as you drive the car more. If its been parked for ages and as its been wet lately could it not be from the rear and its just the shoes on the drums??? (If it has drums!)

 

[RobMorris]

nah its def the driver side bearings.
ive jacked it up and the wheels wobbles all over the place!!!!

 

[G_F]

To save a few quid, take the hub off yourself, buy a bearing and take it too a garage to be pressed in

 

[G_F]

Front Swivel Hub Removal.​

I have assumed you have removed the brake calliper/front brake disk and axel nut.

First undo the nut on the track-rod end, use a ball-joint splitter, else you risk damaging the top of the nut. DON’T use the cheaper versions (pullers) get something similar to this >> http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product...2&r=2076&g=111



Second undo the nut and clamp on the suspension arm to hub and use the ball-joint splitter again, be careful not to damage the rubber gaiter.



I find doing the above awkward, so I usually undo the bolts on the lower arm (wishbone) and keep the lower arm ball-joint inplace.



Finally undo the strut to swivel hub bolts.



Now that everything is undone, all that is needed to do to remove the hub is a ‘gentle’ pull; it can be quite tough because thread locking fluid is applied to the splines, in that case get a rubber mallet and give it a bash. When done it will look like this>



….and the hub (with attached bottom ball joint)



Personally, I use new nut and bolts and thread lock everything where possible, you don’t need to though.

Good luck


(Above guide was done on a MK1 Clio)

 

[RobMorris]

Hi

On the last pic, is the complete piece called the hub?

If so What part is the drive flange (secondary hub)???

I need to replace this along with the bearing for the MOT...

The MOT'er said its the part where the wheels bolts to? So does the circular piece to the front come apart from the hub??

cheers

 

[Fred@BTM]

yep drive flange

 

[Fred@BTM]

it comes out, but you'll destroy the bearing getting it out (i use a large hammer and a socket)

 

[RobMorris]

cheers fellor

ive got a replacement bearing...
so is there a bolt to take off and then tap it out?

 

[Fred@BTM]

what?? the drive flange out of the wheel bearing???

 

[RobMorris]

how would i replace the flange?
Ive got a new bearing to put in it aswell.

 

[Fred@BTM]

smash the internals out of the bearing, and hammer the drive flange out

i weld up the indises of the bearing shell, let it cool than tap it out with a hammer

 

[Fred@BTM]

smash the internals out of the bearing, and hammer the drive flange out

i weld up the indises of the bearing shell, let it cool than tap it out with a hammer

 

[RobMorris]

cool, cheers mate