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Horn wiring shorted, smoke, not good.

Oddesy

ClioSport Club Member
Car  172 Cup, FK2 Type R
Hi
I've read a few threads about horn wiring, and people with similar problems, but cant find the exact answer I'm looking for.

I put an aftermarket steering in my cup, when it came to wiring up the horn, something shorted out and a little smoke came from the solder joints on the squid just behind the boss. I've tried a few things now to get the horn to work but nothings working, I've traced the wires back to and tried running new connections from behind the squib, but nothings worked.

Will buying a new squib fix this problem? or will the short have damaged something else further down?

Cheers
 
The fuse looks ok, I tried changing in anyways, didn't seem to help
 
That's my issue, not sure if it's fried before or after the squib
 
Need a multi meter and a knowledgeable person now.
How come you didn't disconnect the battery?
Without having knowledge of what to check you'll be chasing your tail.
Does the squib work, ie indicators, lights and wipers etc?
 
I did disconnect it originally but I was back and forward connecting/reconnecting, trying to get it to work. Yeah the squib works fine, all my electrics are fine other than the horn
 
I'd replace the squib next then. Might be able to find a second hand one on here/eBay? You might need a cup specific one as non-cup ph2 172s have ESP (and a steering angle sensor). Maybe someone else will know for sure.

While you're replacing the squib you could fit a ph1 indicator stalk which has a horn button on the end. I think I have one spare somewhere.
 
Can't remember what's what but one make you can't use as it shorts out, take the horn push off and take it from there.
 
hmmm ok, I'll get my self a multimeter and do some investigating.
 
Just had this problem and figured it out myself... The horn wires go via the headlight/indicator stalk (red and black wires attach to pins on the stalk). First check the fuse, then check if there's 12v to the wires attaching to the headlight stalk. If there is no voltage or low voltage then the short is in the wiring behind the steering wheel - if there is power here but not at the grey horn connector (on the squib) then the squib needs replacing, costs £120. Polarity is important with the horn wires so make a note of what way they come off. Cutting the spring clip off on aftermarket push horns will stop shorts as this earths to the steering column.
 
I have had the same problem with my OMP.Fitted it all ok but then when i went to push the centre piece back in,it sparks like you say.
How do i wire up the horn properly for it not to spark/short out please?.
Do i just connect the black wire & not the red?.as i have read the red wite is live?
 
I've not had the chance to give this another go yet, I need some new spade connectors for my horn button. I have however got my self a new squib, not sure how this cost you £120, I got one from the scrap yard with some other interior trim bits for £15. I've heard a few people say that cutting the spring clip stops the shorts. I'll be trying this next weekend. I'll update when I get this sorted
 
I need to re soldier the horn wire on as mine has come off or could just get the Phase 1 stalk.
But would also like to know if by cutting the horn clip it works
 
I've not had the chance to give this another go yet, I need some new spade connectors for my horn button. I have however got my self a new squib, not sure how this cost you £120, I got one from the scrap yard with some other interior trim bits for £15. I've heard a few people say that cutting the spring clip stops the shorts. I'll be trying this next weekend. I'll update when I get this sorted
There's two versions of squib, with cruise control and non-cruise. Non-cruise = £15 scrap yard job. Cruise = £120 from renault. Stupid for the sake of two extra wires! I can confirm my horn is still working with the cut spring clip...it is just a simple push switch after all.
 
Sorted it today, went to the scrap yard, got the female end of the horn connector from a steering wheel, plugged it into the connector on my new squib, put 2 spades on the end of it, connected it to my push button on my wheel, removed the earth spring clip. All working fine now.

I can happily beep at the traffic all the way to work in the morning! :D
 
Not unless somethings broken. Just wire the horn into the push button centre without the spring.

I shorted mine out so wired a horn button down on the column. I traced the horn wiring back so it didn't need to go through the squib.

It was more out of necessity than design!!

Yours should wire in fine if its all in tact.
 
Not unless somethings broken. Just wire the horn into the push button centre without the spring.

I shorted mine out so wired a horn button down on the column. I traced the horn wiring back so it didn't need to go through the squib.

It was more out of necessity than design!!

Yours should wire in fine if its all in tact.

Yeah its all fine apart from the wire connection has came off,so just need to soldier it back on.
 
OK so just fitted the phase1 stalk,all works apart from the horn now!.have checked the fuses and horn itself and all ok.

Only thing I could say is the wire from behind the wheel that connected to the original steering wheel has come off,could it be this?
 
OK so just fitted the phase1 stalk,all works apart from the horn now!.have checked the fuses and horn itself and all ok.

Only thing I could say is the wire from behind the wheel that connected to the original steering wheel has come off,could it be this?
Two individual wires (black and red/black and brown) go from pins on the back of the stalk to the clockspring which are for the horn, they'll probably be loose there
 
Still no luck with this,so will put new spade connectors to the horn & also maybe re solder the horn wire back on & connect it to the push horn on the omp wheel & see if that works.If so it will be the stalk at fault maybe,also i will use a tester to see if any power is coming through the actual wires connected to the horn itself & up on the stalk etc
 
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