Install noob - Not so noob kit - Some questions

[AlexG]

this is looking in from the boot with half of the rear seat folded forward. when the seats are back you cant even see it atall. i tried the seatbelt bolt on the left hand side where it fixes at the bottom and my amp wouldn't even work with it earthed there. and put a little bit of grease on it too once you've scraped the paint off to stop it rusting.

 

[matt|H]

Ah I get ya'.

I'll go whack it on now, thanks.

 

[matt|H]

Here we go...

Almost there.
Will probably adjust it to look more like yours when I work out best place for amp.



Ok, what's the best way to connect everything up? For now I'll just be running subs from the amp but not sure what cables to connect first.....

 

[AlexG]

did you get a manual or any booklets with your amp it should tell you which is the best way to connect it up. a lot of amps are different though so im not sure.

i done mine:
earth
speaker wire
rca
rem
power

 

[matt|H]

i done mine:
earth
speaker wire
rca
rem
power

Do I just connect it to the battery by removing positive and fitting it on or do I need to remove negative first or anything? Now I'm being very cautious as I really don't want to touch the battery!


No manual... I bought it all off my sisters bf's from his old show car.

I've also got all of this to work out... lol

(And tbh I don't know what RCA goes where.. :s)

 

[AlexG]

yep thats what i done just unscrewed the plastic cap thing on the terminal and whacked it on and done it back up.

as for the pic it is quite hard to work out. lol you need to say how many channels you are running and how many rca leads you have run. are you running just subs or speakers awell.
eg 2 door speakers and 2 subs. or what?

 

[matt|H]

For now I'm just running two subs through one RCA. I will be adding another RCA and two components at a later date but due to having to hack the door apart to get 6.5" speakers in I've left it for now. Will re-consider buying 5.25" speakers to make it easier... So yeah, just subs now.

I've got both subs bridged, power cable connected (but not connected at battery obviously) and remote cable in.

As for the gains and EQ I'll work that out later, but not sure where the RCA goes exactly or what switches I need to what settings...

 

[AlexG]

all i could tell you really is that the input mode needs to be on 2 channel and the x overs need to be on low pass filter to run the subs. i could guestimate what rca needs to go where but i will let some one who knows there stuff more like wallop

 

[wallop]

Nice to see everyone helping everyone.....

So, earthing to a seat bracket, interesting.....I like the threaded hole in the rear panel.....

@ OP, With regards wiring sequence for your amps....

This thread Post 2 ..... suggest you read full thread, it may prevent you from screwing something up.....

 

[matt|H]

Got some info over at TalkAudio so I now know what outputs to use.

all i could tell you really is that the input mode needs to be on 2 channel and the x overs need to be on low pass filter to run the subs. i could guestimate what rca needs to go where but i will let some one who knows there stuff more like wallop

Thanks again.

Nice to see everyone helping everyone.....

So, earthing to a seat bracket, interesting.....I like the threaded hole in the rear panel.....

@ OP, With regards wiring sequence for your amps....

This thread Post 2 ..... suggest you read full thread, it may prevent you from screwing something up.....

Thanks dude. Differs from previous advice for wiring up sequence, but you seem to know you stuff so I'll do it your way.

If the current earth position isn't very good I'll move to the hole and give that a go.

 

[wallop]

RCA leads into Ch 1 & Ch 2......LINE INPUT
Phase shift, both central or zero degrees.....
Input mode, 2 Channel.....
Ch3 & Ch 4 set switch to INT......
High pass, Both set to min, (50hz)
Crossovers, Both set to LP, (LOW).....
Subsonic, Depends on enclosure tuning.....(Sealed enclosure set to OFF)
Bass EQ, Set to min, (can adjust later if required)....
Low Pass, Both set to around 100hz to start, then adjust downwards to taste.....
Level, Both fully Anti-Clockwise to start......

THIS THREAD gives some basic info you may find useful....check out post number 3, gives a little basic info on amp setting up by ear......

Obviously your going to have to set your amp up twice, once for each sub, but the basics are the same.......

 

[matt|H]

Thanks I'll read through and hope I understand it.

This is what someone over at TA done for me..

 

[wallop]

Oh, sorry mate, I thought you were using this amp to run 2 subs, (both bridged, 1 from front chs & 1 from rear chs), not a single sub & a set of stereo speakers.....Seem to recall you only had one set of sub RCA leads.....

Follow TA advice then.....

Just a thought, what impedance are your subs?? If bridging 2 subs from rear chs have you checked the amp can run into this load???

 

[Black-Clio-1.4]

1. Speaker wire.
Speaker wire needs to be seperated from the power cable.

To take up carpet, you will need to remove the front seat/s, and the side skirting. Easily achieved.

2. Ground cable.
There is a long black bar in the boot, with two bolts in. Use one of these bolts.


3. 6.5" comps in doors.
A very annoying job, but it's possible with quite a bit of work.

4. Power.
I would recommend upgrading your battery, your alternator will be fine. (I run 3 amps off of mine, no problem, just a bit a light dimming.

5. Think I can do it?
Take your time!!! Read up on everything before you proceed, and take your time!!!


Just PM if you have any questions.

 

[wallop]

1. Speaker wire.
Speaker wire needs to be seperated from the power cable.

To take up carpet, you will need to remove the front seat/s, and the side skirting. Easily achieved.

2. Ground cable.
There is a long black bar in the boot, with two bolts in. Use one of these bolts.


3. 6.5" comps in doors.
A very annoying job, but it's possible with quite a bit of work.

4. Power.
I would recommend upgrading your battery, your alternator will be fine. (I run 3 amps off of mine, no problem, just a bit a light dimming.

5. Think I can do it?
Take your time!!! Read up on everything before you proceed, and take your time!!!


Just PM if you have any questions.

1, Why????

4, Why????

 

[matt|H]

Black-Clio-1.4, if you read the thread you'll see all of the questions have been answered and I'm almost done with it all. Thanks anyway though.

Wallop, I am running two subs and they will both be bridged (for now!). I have one RCA from back of headunit (SW preout). Both of these are bridged over two channels as per the diagram on the other side of the amp. Later down the line when I change the rest of the speakers I'll have a front RCA and SW RCA - but not for a couple weeks yet.

Not entirely sure on the subs but I *think* they are 2ohm. The amp is 1ohm stable. Please don't tell me this is wrong... lol. I know it works fine with a single channel per, but bridged I'm just guessing (and hoping).

 

[wallop]

If you connect as I posted then 1 sub would be driven bridged off the front channels and the other would be driven bridged from the rear channels....You would only need 1 set of RCA leads in channels 1&2 as channels 3&4 would be fed internally.....

You state the amp is '1ohm' stable, I assume it is '1ohm stereo stable', so in effect it will happily bridge into a 2ohm load.....In order for it to bridge into a 1ohm load it would need to be 0.5ohm stereo stable....

 

[matt|H]

Right think I'm getting it now..

Out of interest.. both ways will work (CH1+CH2 vs CH3+CH4) just the other way around?

Sub 1 is bridged over ch1 and ch2, sub 2 is bridged over ch3 and ch4.

 

[matt|H]

Tempted to waste a bit of money and just buy some smaller components that will fit right in. Really don't fancy cutting the door as I like the option of returning to standard...

 

[wallop]

Right think I'm getting it now..

Out of interest.. both ways will work (CH1+CH2 vs CH3+CH4) just the other way around?

Sub 1 is bridged over ch1 and ch2, sub 2 is bridged over ch3 and ch4.

With the amp configured for 2ch use and wired as highlighted it will not run components as well....

For use in this manner refer to TA example.....

 

[matt|H]

Right think I'm getting it now..

Out of interest.. both ways will work (CH1+CH2 vs CH3+CH4) just the other way around?

Sub 1 is bridged over ch1 and ch2, sub 2 is bridged over ch3 and ch4.

With the amp configured for 2ch use and wired as highlighted it will not run components as well....

For use in this manner refer to TA example.....

Yeah I know as all the channels are used up.

As I said before, I won't be fitting comps for a week at least.

 

[matt|H]

Connection sequence;
1, Speaker wires
2, Batt +ve feed
3, Amplifier earth
4, remote turn on
5, Double check all connections, fit power supply fuse, Switch system on and check amp powers up.....
6, If amp powers up OK, then switch system OFF....
7, Connect all RCA leads....

Right, so...
1. Attach subs to amp.
2. Connect power cable to battery positive terminal (do I need to disconnect anything/be careful not to touch anything? Am I safe with my hands all over the position terminal?).
3. Attach amp earth.
4. Attach remote cable.
5. Complete power connection to amp by attaching the inline fuse.
6. Test amp powers up with headunit.
7. Connect RCA's and hope for the best!

If that's definately correct - I'm offski.

Hopefully that's the last of my questions and I'll be done.

 

[kpowell911]

It's 2K peak... not sure on RMS.

I was only going to fit the power "crap" because I had it. One recommendation not to fit it is good enough reason not to.

Will do some searching when I get home from work - thanks.

2k peak means f**k all mate.

I've done 4-5 Clios (2 my own car) using anywhere between 300wrms to 3000wrms. Depending on what amp you have, You may experience some issues with voltage drop. I used to drop as low as 10.3v with standard battery and alternator with 1500wrms. My system with 3,000wrms had 2 Yellow tops so was fine

I disconnect the battery before starting (mainly because I take the dash top off when installing the head unit to route wires)

I always recomend at least 4 gauge. There is a bonnet release grommit which apaprently 4 gauge fits through, However I've always drilled and grommited my own hole just above the brake pipes in the installs ive done. The metal tray around the battery is a great place to mount your fuse holder, Just drill 4 holes and bolt it on with self tapers. Really neatens up the engine bay.

I run the 0 gauage down the passenger side, RCA's down drivers side, Not for interfearence issues but for space. I run a set of 14gauge speaker wires down each side for the componants and the Remote on the same side of the RCA's.

I find if you just unbolt the seat belt at the bottom. You can get away with leaving the front seats in. I usually remove the lower rear bench and remove the isofix baby seat bar completely, And use one of the holes for this as my earth with the paint sanded away underneath.

As you are only running 1 amp you will not need distrubution blocks.

Plug your RCA's into your head unit, And connect your remote cable to your head unit.

Install the earth to the amplifier first then install the speaker wires, then the remote, then the power wire.

Go round the front, connect the power wire (fused of course) and boom away.

Car audio is very simple as long as you are patient and sensible. A clio mk2 is one of the easiest cars once you have the power wire through the bulkhead. Try installing a system in one of the latest VAG's where the car wont start when you change the Head unit

 

[matt|H]

So with everything else connected, just whack the power on the battery and job done?

 

[matt|H]

This is really annoying lol. I want to just go ahead and do it but don't want to mess anything up.

Could someone confirm;
1. Attach subs to amp.
2. Connect power cable to battery positive terminal (do I need to disconnect anything/be careful not to touch anything? Am I safe with my hands all over the position terminal?).
3. Attach amp earth.
4. Attach remote cable.
5. Complete power connection to amp by attaching the inline fuse.
6. Test amp powers up with headunit.
7. Connect RCA's and hope for the best!

 

[wallop]

Connection sequence from scratch.....

1, Remove battery negative terminal
2, Fit new power cable for boot to battery positive terminal, (with fuse fitted)....
3, Go to boot....
4, Connect all speakers to amplifiers
5, Connect all live feeds to amplifiers
6, Connect amplifier remote leads

7, Double check all connections, (esp power polarity)....
8, Reconnect main battery earth, (including new earth to match new power)....
9, Start car....
10, Switch on head unit....
11, Check all amps are lit up and running fine, (no protect lights, no blown fuses, no funny smells, no funny noises from speakers)....
12, Switch off car
13, double check head unit is OFF....
14, Fit RCA leads into amplifiers.....
15, Double check amplifier gains are at minimum
16, Start car....
17, Switch on head unit....
18, Increase head unit volume & check for background noise.....
19, If alls well, proceed with set up.....

Never disconnect the live battery terminal.....
When connecting the live terminal with earth already connected you will cause a power surge which is quite capable of wiping out a modern cars ECU or other electronic brain units.....

 

[matt|H]

Got it!

Sorry for being annoyingly stupid

Thanks once again!

 

[matt|H]

As soon as RCA's went in the amp protect light came on.

Could it be that my battery was low at the time? Try again after drive to work?

 

[wallop]

Just checked previous connection post and like a jerk I failed to include amplifier earth connection.....

Now rectified below......

Connection sequence from scratch.....

1, Remove battery negative terminal
2, Fit new power cable for boot to battery positive terminal, (with fuse fitted)....
3, Go to boot....
4, Connect all speakers to amplifiers
5, Connect all live feeds to amplifiers
6, Connect amplifier remote leads
7, Connect amplifier earths

8, Double check all connections, (esp power polarity)....
9, Reconnect main battery earth, (including new earth to match new power)....
10, Start car....
11, Switch on head unit....
12, Check all amps are lit up and running fine, (no protect lights, no blown fuses, no funny smells, no funny noises from speakers)....
13, Switch off car
14, double check head unit is OFF....
15, Fit RCA leads into amplifiers.....
16, Double check amplifier gains are at minimum
17, Start car....
18, Switch on head unit....
19, Increase head unit volume & check for background noise.....
20, If alls well, proceed with set up.....

Never disconnect the live battery terminal.....
When connecting the live terminal with earth already connected you will cause a power surge which is quite capable of wiping out a modern cars ECU or other electronic brain units.....


With regards amp protection after RCA fitting.....

OK, when you test the amp with no RCA leads fitted the amp is merely drawing enough current to basically idle.....

As soon as the RCA leads are fitted the amp recieves a signal and so actually draws current to meet its needs.....

If it now trips into 'protect' then this would indicate;

1, Voltage drop----Normally caused by a 'point of high resistance'.....
2, Amplifier fault----Very rare occurence....
3, Wiring issue....

Things to check;

1, All connections are tight....
2, Gain controls are actually fully anti-clockwise, (minimum).....

Things that could be an issue;

1, Remember the interesting earth connection, where did you eventually opt for???
2, Main power feed fuse, is it an 'AGU' type fuse, if it is try another, these notoriously fail and cause resistance induced voltage drop, (along with bags of heat).....

My money would be on your 'AMPLIFIER EARTH'......

 

[matt|H]

In regards to wiring... I just took a guess and thought "Hm, the earth should be in surely?". All good.

I checked the dash this morning and the battery and stop light are on. Suggests voltage drop right? Am yet to try starting the car. :s

Yeah I used the seat belt holder as the earth. Can I disconnect the earth without disconnecting anything else to either make a better connection or move it, or do I need to disconnect it all in the reverse order before doing this?

 

[Dan R]

Just checked previous connection post and like a jerk I failed to include amplifier earth connection.....

Now rectified below......

Connection sequence from scratch.....

1, Remove battery negative terminal
2, Fit new power cable for boot to battery positive terminal, (with fuse fitted)....
3, Go to boot....
4, Connect all speakers to amplifiers
5, Connect all live feeds to amplifiers
6, Connect amplifier remote leads
7, Connect amplifier earths

8, Double check all connections, (esp power polarity)....
9, Reconnect main battery earth, (including new earth to match new power)....
10, Start car....
11, Switch on head unit....
12, Check all amps are lit up and running fine, (no protect lights, no blown fuses, no funny smells, no funny noises from speakers)....
13, Switch off car
14, double check head unit is OFF....
15, Fit RCA leads into amplifiers.....
16, Double check amplifier gains are at minimum
17, Start car....
18, Switch on head unit....
19, Increase head unit volume & check for background noise.....
20, If alls well, proceed with set up.....

Never disconnect the live battery terminal.....
When connecting the live terminal with earth already connected you will cause a power surge which is quite capable of wiping out a modern cars ECU or other electronic brain units.....


With regards amp protection after RCA fitting.....

OK, when you test the amp with no RCA leads fitted the amp is merely drawing enough current to basically idle.....

As soon as the RCA leads are fitted the amp recieves a signal and so actually draws current to meet its needs.....

If it now trips into 'protect' then this would indicate;

1, Voltage drop----Normally caused by a 'point of high resistance'.....
2, Amplifier fault----Very rare occurence....
3, Wiring issue....

Things to check;

1, All connections are tight....
2, Gain controls are actually fully anti-clockwise, (minimum).....

Things that could be an issue;

1, Remember the interesting earth connection, where did you eventually opt for???
2, Main power feed fuse, is it an 'AGU' type fuse, if it is try another, these notoriously fail and cause resistance induced voltage drop, (along with bags of heat).....

My money would be on your 'AMPLIFIER EARTH'......

OMG OMG OMG that is really bad!!!!!!!!!!!!
What a sh*te earth!!!! whos is that???? :S

 

[matt|H]

Car started fine and the battery light went out right away. Drove to work with headunit off and amp remote wire out.. Will do some driving at lunch and ofcourse drive home to try get some power then try again.

Err, that would be my earth which, by the sounds of it, isn't any good.

Where would you suggest putting it, and can I just pull it off and move it somewhere else without disconnecting the rest of it?

 

[aliengravy]

Just run it under the boot lining up to the thumb screw that holds the rear light cluster on. Unscrew the thumb screw, place it through the eye on the cable, and screw it back in, bobs your uncle, mine worked like that, altho i did take it apart again, and scratch some paint off!!

Have fun!

 

[matt|H]

I'm going to try find a bolt that will go through the hole in the back of the boot. Can't remember for sure, but I think that was bare metal already but either way it's hidden and a lot of metal there to use.

Question still remains - safe to disconnect the earth to move it?

 

[wallop]

I'm going to try find a bolt that will go through the hole in the back of the boot. Can't remember for sure, but I think that was bare metal already but either way it's hidden and a lot of metal there to use.

Question still remains - safe to disconnect the earth to move it?

System OFF....

1, Remove all RCA leads from amps.....
2, Remove Negative terminal from Battery.....
3, Relocate Boot Earth....
4, Reconnect Battery Negative Terminal....
5, Test Amp

6, Double check system is OFF....
7, Reconnect RCA leads and try again.....

 

[matt|H]

Moved earth to the brake light cluster and green light.

Battery charge warning light
It should go out as soon as the engine starts.
If it lights up when you are driving, it indicates that the circuit is overcharging or has discharged. Stop and have the circuit checked.

Does this mean it's fine? Lol