mine is a 52plate on a 2003 reg. i have the button. how do you no if its turned off. does it come up on the dash or does the light on the button go on off.
When you start the car everything defaults to on.
If you press the ESP button the light on the dash goes on which means the ESP and Traction control are off. The situations the ESP/TC light on the dash light up are when you've got it switched off, and when its actually doing something. That makes sense doesn't it?***
When you turn the engine off and restart it again everything defaults back to on again. And the answer to your next question is, no, no-one knows how to switch it off permanently. At least nothing that doesn't involve the use of a pair of wire-cutters.
***I guess I must be illogical or not French or something because I would have had the light on the ESP switch indicate whether its on or off, and the light on the dash tell you whether its doing something.