Is this too far gone

[JamesBryan]

Yeah 20 ton needed for these really unless they're not that old then they'll come out with a 10 ton.

Even had some struggle at 20 ton!

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Deox gel is pretty harmless to all but rust

Its not. I just totaled two hubs and two 60mm hub carriers with it.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Required a 20ton on mine after soaking the hubs and bearings in deox c

After reading your post a few months back regarding the bearings being a pain to get out after a Deox C soak I pressed everything out first. The Deox C removed the bearing interference fit and made my bearing and hubs a hand press fit. So actually you and the OP have done exactly the right thing!

Replacing hubs and hub carriers has been an expensive lesson.

Also, Deox C is just plain old citric acid. You can buy a 5KG bag of citric acid on eBay for £15. Although the damage was done using Deox C.

Deox-C / Citric acid is awesome at removing rust - I just won't ever be using it on bearing surfaces again.

Rob,

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Jesus, the previous owner was a complete c**t wasn't he/she.

Outer CV joints from autodoc aren't horridly expensive, neither are Meyle hubs so if your ABS ring is a sloppy fit after cleaning up the surface might be more economical to get another outer CV joint kit with the boot etc.

 

[DomP182]

Its not. I just totaled two hubs and two 60mm hub carriers with it.

Really! I'd have thought it would only remove corrosion unless it was in a really strong solution maybe?

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Really! I'd have thought it would only remove corrosion unless it was in a really strong solution maybe?

No, I researched it quite heavily after it happened and citric acid (which deox c is) also does iron pretty well. My solution was on the strong side however well within their recommended ratio. I was at about 10:1. That together with hot water and a 24 hour bath was my downfall.

In future I will probably do 20:1 for 24 hours or 10:1 for 4 hours but still only on non bearing faces.

Tbf you don't have to remove that much material to make a virgin an easy fit.

 

[botfch]

Yeah your supposed to cover machined surfaces in grease first.

Tbf the hubs don’t really need rust treatment there’s plenty of “spare” material on cast items so grinding/blasting is usually more appropriate.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Indeed, didn't see that in the instructions (and haven't since tbh). Just loads of people on the net dumping everything and anything in a bucket of Deox C.

The second set got a 4 hour bath and then a wire brush on a drill before pressing the bearings out and were spot on - bearings were no harder to remove after Deox C than before. 9 tons, bit of heat and a few taps later and they were out.

Sadly I don't have a sand blasting cabinet to hand... So the bucket of water and some magic dust seemed like a done deal. The blasting cabinet would have been cheaper to buy than all this!

 

[1985michael182]

Defo blasting is the best way or electrolysis.

 

[04-182]

This is the hubs currently.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Defo blasting is the best way or electrolysis.

I think it depends on the application. Deox C seems great for certain things, its easy a pish, cheap and parts don't seem to flash rust nearly as badly as they do with blasting or electrolysis. For big parts like the rear beam in a plasterers bath it probably works well. All I know is I should have known better than to take the short cut and expect it all to work out haha.

 

[1985michael182]

If you do the job properly they wont rust.

How they looked when I took them off.

I removed the bearings and gave them a 90% do with the blaster then sent them to NortLoopCup for the role centre to be done.

They came back machined and kit fitted. I removed the lower ball joint extention and gave them a thorough 100% blast again.

Then they went for plating to protect them properly.

Nuff said (mic drop)

 

[04-182]

If you do the job properly they wont rust.

Very nice. I just cleaned most of the rust off with deox-c prob live to regret it but gave it a go. very weak solution approx 4% (just under their min recommendation). Then wire brushed them. masked off the bits i didnt want paint on and sprayed them with high temp hammerite.

 

[1985michael182]

You forget to comment lol

 

[04-182]

You forget to comment lol

That's weird. it put my comment in the grey box.

Very nice. I just cleaned most of the rust off with deox-c prob live to regret it but gave it a go. very weak solution approx 4% (just under their min recommendation). Then wire brushed them. masked off the bits i didnt want paint on and sprayed them with high temp hammerite.

 

[Usr117063]

You forget to comment lol

He put it in the quote square eyes

 

[1985michael182]

He put it in the quote square eyes

Where I dont see anything

 

[1985michael182]

And then theres electrolysis. I did this on my classic scooby as a trail more than anything and worked perfectly.

12v car battery with the charger attached to keep a good voltage and draw onto the sacrificial piece of steel.

After 48hrs they looked like this

Wire brush by hand

After wire wheel

Etched and silver enamel

No harmful acid needed just washing soda in the water that's it.

 

[Louis]

And then theres electrolysis. I did this on my classic scooby as a trail more than anything and worked perfectly.

12v car battery with the charger attached to keep a good voltage and draw onto the sacrificial piece of steel.
View attachment 1476953View attachment 1476954View attachment 1476955

After 48hrs they looked like this
View attachment 1476956

Wire brush by hand
View attachment 1476958

After wire wheel
View attachment 1476959

Etched and silver enamel
View attachment 1476960

No harmful acid needed just washing soda in the water that's it.

Be careful of the hydrogen being emitted but another good way of removing rust

 

[1985michael182]

That's why its outside bud 👍

 

[botfch]

Danger Danger high voltage

 

[Louis]

That's why its outside bud 👍

I did all my spitfire parts like this. Even filled the fuel tank to clean it internally. Worked amazingly well!

 

[1985michael182]

Danger Danger high voltage

😂 its 12v but some fucktard is bound to put their hand in it arent they so just covering my back

 

[Usr117063]

Great result. Prefer the oem grey sort of look though, or satin black.

 

[1985michael182]

Great result. Prefer the oem grey sort of look though, or satin black.

To be honest if you bought the cars brand new they all start out with some form of electro plating in silver or gold but over time it wears off. It's a sacrificial coating

 

[1985michael182]

So ACF50 is probably your best friend to keep thing corrosion free after any tips of refurb.

 

[04-182]

So I’m going slower than a slow snail due to other jobs but it’s slowly getting there. It’s not showroom, or display level but I’m rather happy how it’s going. Before and after (in progress).

 

[Usr117063]

You gonna doe tie rods as well? they look a bit tired..

 

[Krarl]

Danger Danger high voltage

When we touch, when we kiss...

 

[04-182]

You gonna doe tie rods as well? they look a bit tired..

I've put new ends on but not done the full rods.

 

[1985michael182]

So I’m going slower than a slow snail due to other jobs but it’s slowly getting there. It’s not showroom, or display level but I’m rather happy how it’s going. Before and after (in progress). View attachment 1481119View attachment 1481121

What did you use to clean the hubs up then or are they new?

 

[04-182]

What did you use to clean the hubs up then or are they new?

deox-c mainly so will find out if the bearings are shot + wire brush and dremel. They feel ok for now. then just sprayed them in high temp matt black. Got some replacement calipers aswell which i've cleaned up and painted.

 

[Usr117063]

Did you dunk the whole hub with bearing in the solution?

 

[04-182]

Yeah. As per a few posts ago (about a month ago). Very weak solution but that was after I was told it was good stuff and before I was told not great idea to have the bearings in. Always learning.

 

[Usr117063]

Yeah. As per a few posts ago (about a month ago). Very weak solution but that was after I was told it was good stuff and before I was told not great idea to have the bearings in. Always learning.

Ah ok! Well they turned out looking good so at least that! Its good stuff that deox c, I use that then kurust, then primer, gave me a good finish on my rear calipers and hubs

 

[04-182]

Ok. Update. Cars back together (running gear not panels) and looking a lot better than it was but still got the fault lights.

Fitted the abs ring that was missing and two new sensors. Started the car up and still have the abs, traction and service lights on. All cables are connected up. It now lets me turn cruise control on though which it wouldn't do before. So that’s cruise and limiter it lets me switch on now.

Question being. Has the abs been turned off with a clip and since it’s all connected up it’s flagging the fault lights? I have no codes on my code reader though.

And can you get it set back to factory easily?

Thanks.

 

[Usr117063]

They stuck crap over the dash lights didnt they? Might have gone into clip first but if the abs is turned off then will it display a speed thats the question

 

[04-182]

Yeah they filled the lights with black silcoset which I’ve cleaned out now. Don’t know anything about clips and what that do etc. Just want it setting back to factory settings so I have a baseline to go from.

 

[botfch]

Rear sensors both working?

 

[04-182]

Rear sensors both working?

Not sure. They’re both there. I’ve done the front end so will be moving onto the back end next. Doing the brakes and suspension eyc so might just replace them while at it.