Jenvey throttle body setup (balancing the bodies)

[1985michael182]

So bought a car with Jenvey bodies and Ktr gen90 ecu. It runs like a sack of s#!t. I've done the coil pack and plugs. It's got all new racing HT leads.
The spray pattern on the injectors looks all pretty even. So.... I bought a syncrometer to see that the bodies were set at after watching Ktr installation videos.

1= 4kg 2= 5kg 3=3kg 4= 5kg that's the reading I have using the syncrometer on each individual body.

My question is what is the idle Kg of air supposed to be set at so I can adjust them all up to be equal and then sort the Throttle position sensor and see if it helps with the sputtering and coughing.

More than likely needs to see a rolling road aswell

Any help appreciated cheers

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

@bloke


I think just even, as apposed to a set amount? I'm not sure though. Something I need to do with mine

 

[vroomtshh]

Yeh they just need to be even. You'll only be able to adjust the screws to allow more air thro most likely. So if the highest reading is 5, you want them all at 5

 

[markmcgivern]

So bought a car with Jenvey bodies and Ktr gen90 ecu. It runs like a sack of s#!t. I've done the coil pack and plugs. It's got all new racing HT leads.
The spray pattern on the injectors looks all pretty even. So.... I bought a syncrometer to see that the bodies were set at after watching Ktr installation videos.

1= 4kg 2= 5kg 3=3kg 4= 5kg that's the reading I have using the syncrometer on each individual body.

My question is what is the idle Kg of air supposed to be set at so I can adjust them all up to be equal and then sort the Throttle position sensor and see if it helps with the sputtering and coughing.

More than likely needs to see a rolling road aswell

Any help appreciated cheersView attachment 1364543View attachment 1364544View attachment 1364545View attachment 1364546

Hi there. I have ktec bodies so balance slightly different but this should help.
There might be an air bleed screw on each one. Ideally as they are individual bodies they should have an adjustment screw via throttle linkage. Should be fairly easy

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[markmcgivern]

So bought a car with Jenvey bodies and Ktr gen90 ecu. It runs like a sack of s#!t. I've done the coil pack and plugs. It's got all new racing HT leads.
The spray pattern on the injectors looks all pretty even. So.... I bought a syncrometer to see that the bodies were set at after watching Ktr installation videos.

1= 4kg 2= 5kg 3=3kg 4= 5kg that's the reading I have using the syncrometer on each individual body.

My question is what is the idle Kg of air supposed to be set at so I can adjust them all up to be equal and then sort the Throttle position sensor and see if it helps with the sputtering and coughing.

More than likely needs to see a rolling road aswell

Any help appreciated cheersView attachment 1364543View attachment 1364544View attachment 1364545View attachment 1364546

Hi there. I have ktec bodies so balance slightly different but this should help.
There might be an air bleed screw on each one. Ideally as they are individual bodies they should have an adjustment screw via throttle linkage. Should be fairly easy

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Air flow readings depend on tick over speed. Balance them out and adjust tick over to wherever your happy.

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[1985michael182]

Not had chance to get computer rigged up yet. I need a higher idle anyway as there is no cold start anymore and a pig to start cold, this can be adjusted from the gen90 via the software?
I thought the Ktr bodies were made by jenvey?
Same setup as theirs with the central Allan bolt and lock off but but once adjusted. So the kg doesn't matter aslong as they all are equal ??

 

[1985michael182]

I'll see of they close up more before I adjust and then start from a base figure. Just didn't know if there was a magic figure on idle. Probs set it at 1000rpm for idle from 850rpm so it start easier

 

[1985michael182]

Anybody know what the most current version of Gen tuner is? Don't know if mines up to date.

 

[markmcgivern]

Ktec bodies are jenvey. I think idle will be done from the throttle springs as the butterflies are now cable operated. I'm not an expert but logic says tick over will be controlled from the bodies not ecu. Can you post a better pic of the bodies showing the cable setup and how each body is linked and the final linkage to throttle cable?

 

[1985michael182]

Oh sorry I forget to post pictures.

So I thought I would have a tinker over the weekend.

Took the filter off and the trumpets and backing plate to get the all the adjusting screw and to get the syncrometer to sit tight. I then plugged the laptop in to see if it would even work, and it did.

So I started the engine and started playing with the screws to see what changed what with the meter in each port.
The idle is set by a screw in the middle which sets the second from the left idle. I opened it until it read 5kg on the meter. Then adjusted the one to the left of it, that was the 2 left sorted then worked to the right to match them. As they levelled out the idle lifted slightly as it was running smoother so I backed the main screw off abit until idle was 1000rpm and all at 5kg.
Then I turned engine off and left ignition on then clicked on the idle setup button on the laptop and looked at Throttle position sensor read out. TPS should be set at 10, mine was at 27 so I adjusted it to 10. Turned ignition off and back on to reset it to zero so the ecu knows then when the throttle is closed it's on 0% open. Open the throttle Right up and read the full open figure. That 100% throttle open and that need to be adjusted in the box on the laptop. Turned it off and on again to check it then opened and shut the throttle to make sure it was set.
Whilst adjusting it take the cable off the linkage aswell. I didn't the first time and it affected the setup.

When I started it up fully adjusted and rebalanced it ran lumpy for about 5 seconds then smoothed right out at sat at 1000rpm.

Took it down the road once I had rebuilt it and was a totally different car. I think it's still far to rich and maybe on a base map. Maybe previous owner didn't or couldn't be arsed to get it mapped so talking to RS tuning and EFI.

Whose most recommended/ trusted?

 

[1985michael182]

I did mine adjustment whilst watching k-tecs setup video following all his steps to the T. It's on YouTube on their channel if anybody needs it. They should make a video on how to setup the software and connecting the laptop to the ecu. Took longer to do that then to actually do the work. Mine wouldn't read the ecu and it took me about 20minutes before I remembered at work on bmw's we have to have the battery charger connected when on the diagnostics machine to have a constant 12v supply. So I got my jump pack and put it on the battery and hey Presto I was in. I would recommend using a charger though over a jump pack as the voltage won't drop.

My tip for the day

 

[markmcgivern]

Top work! Not a difficult job at all. Forgot about the ktec videos. There very handy

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[1985michael182]

So spoken to RS Tunning they want £414 to map it and EFI want £200/250 and that a full custom map with power runs.
Where would you guys go

 

[Chambers_RS]

Efi all day long mate. I Trailer mine nearly 3 hours to Scoff. Can’t go wrong

 

[STEVE.M]

Are there no vacuum take off points downstream of the butterflies?

 

[1985michael182]

No once the air passes through the butterflies it's mixed with fuel so no vacuums

 

[1985michael182]

Why do you ask?

 

[bloke]

No once the air passes through the butterflies it's mixed with fuel so no vacuums

Eh? Every bike I've set up has the stub for vac gauges on the inlet flange just before the head.

 

[1985michael182]

Mine are jenvey throttle bodies not bike ones? Don't know if they are different. I'm learning myself

 

[bloke]

you still have vac though.

 

[1985michael182]

I'll have a look

 

[STEVE.M]

I'll have a look

I cannot see any take off points on any of their bodies or manifolds.
They seem to have missed a trick there.