Yeah but then FD on top, build cost, diff and your then + vat and looking well at the thick end of 5k!
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Kenny's Kup
- Thread starter Kenny.s
- Start date
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Yeah but then FD on top, build cost, diff and your then + vat and looking well at the thick end of 5k!
And the majority of that cost comes because of the s**t way Renault designed the jc5 diff unfortunately. My straight cut synchro vauxhall box cost £2600 incl diff, gear kit and rebuild items as a comparison!! It helps that I can build/rebuild the gearboxes myself though.
Haha yes standard Renault lol!
Clio 172
Sorry for sounding thick (but I'm going to anyway) what is a dog box and straight cut gears and what difference will it make? I understand what the diff does but the rest is above my knowledge level and I'm too lazy to google/wikipedia it.
Yes + vat, it's the grand total that is scary and not enough of an issue for me to spend that amount on!
A normal manual gearbox has syncromesh hubs to match the speed of the gear prior to it being engaged. They still have a dog ring but they're much smaller and finer, when you crunch a gear it's these dogs you are hearing being buzzed against the corresponding part on the gear, its the dog ring that transfers the drive from the shaft to the selected gear.
A dog box does away with the syncro part and replaces it with a much tougher dog ring, as shown in the last two pics I posted. The advantage being there's no syncro to damage and in theory you can change gear a bit quicker, only thing you need to careful of is that it will let you engage any gear at any speed! ie going for 3rd you could pick 1st and it'll go in no questions asked, a syncro box wouldn't, or it would certainly complain if you tried.
Straight cut gears are just that, the teeth are cut straight across, in a standard gearbox they're helical cut which results in quieter meshing but as a result it produces axial thrust which is potentially more friction and power loss. In most gearboxes like this the final drive has the helical cut the opposite way to counter act it. So this kit has to use a straight cut FD too otherwise there would be a big axial load in one direction which would probably knacker the thrust bearings in short time.
Hope that makes some sense.
Clio 172
Makes some sense.
If you're going to buy a diff just now that'll take the edge off it a bit, just need to sell the FD.
Have you had a look at the ratios? 1st gear is good for nearly 50mph with the tyre and FD combo I'm running. For sprints and hills it means it'll actually be a usable gear.
I thought the ratio's on the gripper box were fixed and the same as standard?
The gear kit was apparently originally designed for the R5 so I guess the ratio's could be the one used in that box
I don't really understand ratio figures lol
I don't really understand ratio figures lol
John did say it was originally designed for the jc3 so that might explain it.
The 22/29 is the tooth count, divide one into the other gives the ratio 2.4:1 simples
Theres a spreadsheet on here somewhere with the std gear ratios to compare it with. But basically by having a longer 1st gear allows you to close the gaps on the rest of the gears.
There's no substitute for power/torque but a nice close ratio gearbox makes the most out of what's available.
The 22/29 is the tooth count, divide one into the other gives the ratio 2.4:1 simples
Theres a spreadsheet on here somewhere with the std gear ratios to compare it with. But basically by having a longer 1st gear allows you to close the gaps on the rest of the gears.
There's no substitute for power/torque but a nice close ratio gearbox makes the most out of what's available.
Ahhh okay I see Yes I have been told a longer first gear is an advantage
Yes I have been told a longer first gear is an advantage
182cup & 172 racecar
I did this at the Hungaroring once at the end of the main straight, went to go from 5th to 3rd, and slipped it straight into 1st, just felt it all tighten up as I was releasing the clutch,
, I was lucky, another nano second, and, it would have been bang!!Sorry 12/29 is 2.4 1st gear not 22/29, typo!
Yeah very lucky, you don't often get away with a 1st instead of 3rd! especially if you were already coming down from 5th. Need to pretty alert to feel the thing wanting to stand on its nose and get the clutch back in quick before its too late.
Yeah very lucky, you don't often get away with a 1st instead of 3rd! especially if you were already coming down from 5th. Need to pretty alert to feel the thing wanting to stand on its nose and get the clutch back in quick before its too late.
Looks like some painting is on the cards for this weekend so I need to pull the finger out and get it ready!
Tops of the strut towers, V prepped and first pass, then did a 2nd pass/cap. Still not as good as my mate but i'm happy enough they're not going to come off
I spent a little time smoothing out the joins and the sides of the towers then gave it a quick coat of etch primer, still need to go round them with seam sealer then I'm going to have a go at using the proper paint gun to put some decent primer on it all.
Tops of the strut towers, V prepped and first pass, then did a 2nd pass/cap. Still not as good as my mate but i'm happy enough they're not going to come off
I spent a little time smoothing out the joins and the sides of the towers then gave it a quick coat of etch primer, still need to go round them with seam sealer then I'm going to have a go at using the proper paint gun to put some decent primer on it all.
hahahaha those turret tops look collosal compared to standard!! the X`s should really help keep the chassis in place and allow the suspension to work properly.. love it as always
Clio 172
I hope the engine still fits in the gap
Cheers for the comments guys, nice to know you like it, just need to hope I can do it justice when it comes to pedalling it!
Minor update, decided to have a go at priming with a proper paint gun, didnt want to drag my mate up to do this wee bit, he just gave me a few pointers via text message lol
I was using a small cheapo paint gun so probably not ideal for high build but I was getting the hang of it a wee bit by time I'd finished, only put on run in it, will flatten it all down tomorrow and get it ready for the top coat on Saturday.
Minor update, decided to have a go at priming with a proper paint gun, didnt want to drag my mate up to do this wee bit, he just gave me a few pointers via text message lol
I was using a small cheapo paint gun so probably not ideal for high build but I was getting the hang of it a wee bit by time I'd finished, only put on run in it, will flatten it all down tomorrow and get it ready for the top coat on Saturday.
TrackCar & F30 330d
Oh My!! Looking nice! I hope your going to put as much effort in to tarting up the actual engine!
Is there much more fabrication work to do? Or are you at the stage of just sticking parts to the car?
Is there much more fabrication work to do? Or are you at the stage of just sticking parts to the car?
Yeah dont worry, the bits that go in there will all be nice and shiny
As far as I know that should be all the fabrication done on the shell but there are still various other bits to fabricate, off the top of my head;
Got a big pile of bits that need to go for powder coating but going to hang off until everything is ready to be done rather than doing it in drips and drabs.
As far as I know that should be all the fabrication done on the shell but there are still various other bits to fabricate, off the top of my head;
- Fibreglass box round swirl pot and lift pump
- Finish switch/relay/breaker panel
Got a big pile of bits that need to go for powder coating but going to hang off until everything is ready to be done rather than doing it in drips and drabs.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
finish looks good mate, good to know you are at the end of the shell prep i expect?
Yeah, thats the shell done (I hope!) if there's anything else that needs doing to it I'll just need to drill and bolt or rivet it in place.
Engine bay now painted, few wee bits we couldnt get to with the gun, so I'll need to touch those in with a small art brush
Also decided to do the A-pillars & triangulation bars in satin black, once the dash is flocked black think it'll look pretty good, it was still drying when these where taken so it's not quite as shiny looking now
Golf GTD Mk7
That would have been my next question
those mounts are very impressive. The builds not bad either 
Looking forward to seeing this go back together now. Great work as always.
Just realised I had a few pictures on my phone of what I did before I came offshore.
Started fitting up the fuel lines but I only managed to get 1 rivnut fitted then the gun packed in :dapprove: ordered a new one while I've been out here so will be able to crack on with that once I get home.
Started fitting up the fuel lines but I only managed to get 1 rivnut fitted then the gun packed in :dapprove: ordered a new one while I've been out here so will be able to crack on with that once I get home.
If you have anymore issues with your rivnut tool have a look at memfast rivnut tool I bought one and its a great bit of kit! Uses normal caphead bolts as the mandrel so readily available incase you get a breakage.
Looking great as always can't wait to get mine back painted so I can rebuild. What are you doing for the chassis loom making it yourself?
Looking great as always can't wait to get mine back painted so I can rebuild. What are you doing for the chassis loom making it yourself?
I ordered one of the Masterfix ones which look pretty substantial but the memfast ones look good too, ill see how I get on with this one. The one that broke was a cheapo thing I've had for years. I try to avoid using rivnuts if I can help it but there are some instances where there's not really any alternative.
Yeah i'm making the engine and chassis looms myself. I've been working away on the diagrams for ages now, currently on revision 12 of the circuit diagram and version 6 or 7 on the termination drawings. Bit overkill but I've opted to use milspec connectors for all the bulkhead penetrations and into the back of the main switch panel.
Yeah i'm making the engine and chassis looms myself. I've been working away on the diagrams for ages now, currently on revision 12 of the circuit diagram and version 6 or 7 on the termination drawings. Bit overkill but I've opted to use milspec connectors for all the bulkhead penetrations and into the back of the main switch panel.
Wee bits of progress today, although some of it will need to come out again before the final assembly, just wanted to test fit a few things.
I sent the dashboard down to Banbury Flocking Services before I went away to work, they turned it round in less than a week and it was sitting at the house when I got home, very pleased with it
Decided to revise the way the fuel lines where mounted, just opened out the P-clips and cut a small piece of rubber to go between the lines and the body, still using the crappy rivnut gun though as the new one hasn't arrived yet.
Going to collect the front subframe and a few other bits from the powder coaters tomorrow so I'll be able to make a start on assembling that.
I sent the dashboard down to Banbury Flocking Services before I went away to work, they turned it round in less than a week and it was sitting at the house when I got home, very pleased with it
Decided to revise the way the fuel lines where mounted, just opened out the P-clips and cut a small piece of rubber to go between the lines and the body, still using the crappy rivnut gun though as the new one hasn't arrived yet.
Going to collect the front subframe and a few other bits from the powder coaters tomorrow so I'll be able to make a start on assembling that.
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Lol
No idea when it's going to finished, if it was just a case of bolting everything on I could take a reasonable guess at it but I've still got so many things I either need to make, or buy it's hard to say. Then I still need to get the outside painted, weather isnt ideal for that just now. I know what I'm like, if I rush it i'll only end up going back and redoing things so I'm best just to do it properly first time, and it'll be ready when it's ready. I'd like to get a few events in this year but I think I need to be realistic that 2014 is going to be my first full season of sprints & hills.
No idea when it's going to finished, if it was just a case of bolting everything on I could take a reasonable guess at it but I've still got so many things I either need to make, or buy it's hard to say. Then I still need to get the outside painted, weather isnt ideal for that just now. I know what I'm like, if I rush it i'll only end up going back and redoing things so I'm best just to do it properly first time, and it'll be ready when it's ready. I'd like to get a few events in this year but I think I need to be realistic that 2014 is going to be my first full season of sprints & hills.
If you have the patience to wait and complete as you want it then fair enough. Im the same in some ways, I like things done how I have pictured them and untill then it will just annoy me untill I redo it or sell it.
Liking the the black fittings, classier than the tarty stuff I have used. Is that ptfe braided hose your using? never seen it with the spiral on it. What washers did you use for the bulkhead fittings, I ended up buying ford cvh sump plug washers as I couldn't find anything to suit on eBay (im assuming that your using -6 fittings)
Liking the the black fittings, classier than the tarty stuff I have used. Is that ptfe braided hose your using? never seen it with the spiral on it. What washers did you use for the bulkhead fittings, I ended up buying ford cvh sump plug washers as I couldn't find anything to suit on eBay (im assuming that your using -6 fittings)
Yeah its ptfe stuff, Goodridge 811 series, really nice to work with and assemble but it's fookin sore on the wallet! I managed to get a reasonable discount on it but still £££. Granted you can buy cheap stuff on ebay but when it comes to fuel, especially in the car, i'd sooner spend the money. As I mentioned before, bruises and broken bones I can deal with but getting burnt isn't something I want to take chances with.
There's still two blue fittings on the lift pump, but I've got blck to replace them, the pump came with those.
The main lines front to back are -6. I got these for the bulkhead fittings,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-M14-X-..._Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item337de38ab4
There's still two blue fittings on the lift pump, but I've got blck to replace them, the pump came with those.
The main lines front to back are -6. I got these for the bulkhead fittings,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-M14-X-..._Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item337de38ab4
