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Leather Care?
- Thread starter Kneel
- Start date
MRBILLYUK
ClioSport Club Member
FF Jeden Osiem Dwa
The colour on the leather is painted on . If it wears off or gets damaged you can get it recoloured by one of the specialist smart repair guys .
I had mine done on the bolster and he fixed a cigarette burn in my seat for £20 . They really only do trade but as he was in the area he sorted my 172's seat out .
http://www.trimline-systems.com/
Products like gliptone won't make a difference if the damage is as you've described it . Or you can buy kits to do it yourself .
http://www.buffaloleather.co.uk/
I've used buffalo products in the past and they are very good . Not used the repair stuff though .
I had mine done on the bolster and he fixed a cigarette burn in my seat for £20 . They really only do trade but as he was in the area he sorted my 172's seat out .
http://www.trimline-systems.com/
Products like gliptone won't make a difference if the damage is as you've described it . Or you can buy kits to do it yourself .
http://www.buffaloleather.co.uk/
I've used buffalo products in the past and they are very good . Not used the repair stuff though .
hi might be worth contacting richard at the leather repair company he is based up north and can sort out your seat.sounds like if leather is missing it needs to be filled with a flexie filler then recoloured then resealed.depending on how big the hole is in the leather might need to be regrained.
i have just done a porsche side bolster myself last week for a client which had a hole the size of a ten pence coin .managed to sort that out looked as good as new afterwards and was still suppel not hard which some finishes can be.
i have just done a porsche side bolster myself last week for a client which had a hole the size of a ten pence coin .managed to sort that out looked as good as new afterwards and was still suppel not hard which some finishes can be.
Kneel on a side note, there was a leather thread on DW they had cream leather and the way this leather cream stuff took out creases and cracks was amazing I was shocked!
Maybe have a quick look on there.
Think it's that gliptone stuff they used aswell.
Maybe have a quick look on there.
Think it's that gliptone stuff they used aswell.
i think you will find that the cream you are on about all it will do is colour in the creases and the cracks .so not to make them as obvious.to properly get rid of the cracks or holes as in this case you need to fill the hole or crack with a flexie filler .otherwise all that will happen is where you have rubbed the cream in dirt will accumilate and show the crease or crack again its just a short term fix.
Another place to buy Gliptone
http://www.monzacarcare.com/product...id=2014&start=0&search_term=Enter search term
And of course fleebay..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GLIPTONE-LIQU...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ef4b487ee
All the clean your car and monza stuff has abotu £5 delivery charge which is shocking IMO.
http://www.monzacarcare.com/product...id=2014&start=0&search_term=Enter search term
And of course fleebay..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GLIPTONE-LIQU...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ef4b487ee
All the clean your car and monza stuff has abotu £5 delivery charge which is shocking IMO.
What a load of b****cks, but having said that I'm been making leather for the car industry for 18 years what would i know LOL.
As stated above it merely fills cracks etc, there is no miracle cure. As for the advert stating "do not use soap and water" Then they know feck all, as I can take you to the boss of the largest tannery in Europe, and if you ask him what do you clean it with, guess what he'll tell you.
If you want to spend money on some crapola thats been reccomended by a detailing geek be my guest.
if anyone would like a full tanning breakdown as to how all this shizzle works please ask.
As stated above it merely fills cracks etc, there is no miracle cure. As for the advert stating "do not use soap and water" Then they know feck all, as I can take you to the boss of the largest tannery in Europe, and if you ask him what do you clean it with, guess what he'll tell you.
If you want to spend money on some crapola thats been reccomended by a detailing geek be my guest.
if anyone would like a full tanning breakdown as to how all this shizzle works please ask.
absolute pish mate.
I've explained before, but i'll explain again.
Car leather is made from corrected grain leather. Basically after the beamhouse process (fat and hair removing) They use enzymes to remove fat's and proteins (thats what stops your leather rotting)
Then its tanned to give it the properties they want, softness etc etc. To do this they use a combination of PH and Temp to open the leather and they reinsert the fats etc that have been removed in beamhouse artifically. This is done in car leathers case by using chrome. The chrome gives the hide a blue appearance, and this is then sold as "wet blue" ,the cow hide is split into two parts, The bottom half goes away to be suede for the inside of shoes,low quality goods or artificial leather, the top section plus grain is kept for the higher end applications.
The tannery either makes themselves or buys in wet blue, and after that it is retanned to their exact specs. Again they use PH and Temp to insert the fat liquors etc they need for feel and softness. At this stage its also dyed, usually in a rough colour to what the final colour will be, so scratches don't show. Once this is done its usually corrected.
Corrected grain means on a number of occasions (unless you have very high quality cow hides, Bavarian as an example) The marked hide (brands insect bites barbed wire scrathes etc) is fillered, then buffed (big sanding machine to level the surface, A tannery makes its money on cutting yield, so the more pieces of a seat the car company can cut from one hide = profit. A big brand mark in the middle fcuks this up.
Once all thats done, Its finished, Acrylic resin and pigment as a base coat, Acrylic and PU as a colour coat, and then a PU Topcoat to protect, usually clear but sometimes pigmented.
Each of these coats has to have "intercoat adhesion" they basically need to stick to others so one doesn't peel off or crack. In this basecoat and colour coat process, it was also be printed, which gives the leather back its natural look, and prints on a fake skin look. The final topcoat is Crosslinked usually using a isocynate crosslinker, which hardens it up for scuff and abrasion resistance.
Now to heat and feed a pore as they say, minus any form of Ph influence. You have to go through 3 layers of dried resin, one of which is crosslinked , then magically open the pores, and drive this magic food through a shed load of chrome and fatliquors, which took the best part of a week to add correctly. All this can then "as it says on the bottle" be done in a matter of minutes".
Absolute COD s**t. LOL
I challenge you to find a geekier answer to that on Cs today.
Oh and for the record, most car seats are not all leather. The back, the section your bum sits on, and the bolsters are, The sides, back, front will be PVC or artifical leather.
I've explained before, but i'll explain again.
Car leather is made from corrected grain leather. Basically after the beamhouse process (fat and hair removing) They use enzymes to remove fat's and proteins (thats what stops your leather rotting)
Then its tanned to give it the properties they want, softness etc etc. To do this they use a combination of PH and Temp to open the leather and they reinsert the fats etc that have been removed in beamhouse artifically. This is done in car leathers case by using chrome. The chrome gives the hide a blue appearance, and this is then sold as "wet blue" ,the cow hide is split into two parts, The bottom half goes away to be suede for the inside of shoes,low quality goods or artificial leather, the top section plus grain is kept for the higher end applications.
The tannery either makes themselves or buys in wet blue, and after that it is retanned to their exact specs. Again they use PH and Temp to insert the fat liquors etc they need for feel and softness. At this stage its also dyed, usually in a rough colour to what the final colour will be, so scratches don't show. Once this is done its usually corrected.
Corrected grain means on a number of occasions (unless you have very high quality cow hides, Bavarian as an example) The marked hide (brands insect bites barbed wire scrathes etc) is fillered, then buffed (big sanding machine to level the surface, A tannery makes its money on cutting yield, so the more pieces of a seat the car company can cut from one hide = profit. A big brand mark in the middle fcuks this up.
Once all thats done, Its finished, Acrylic resin and pigment as a base coat, Acrylic and PU as a colour coat, and then a PU Topcoat to protect, usually clear but sometimes pigmented.
Each of these coats has to have "intercoat adhesion" they basically need to stick to others so one doesn't peel off or crack. In this basecoat and colour coat process, it was also be printed, which gives the leather back its natural look, and prints on a fake skin look. The final topcoat is Crosslinked usually using a isocynate crosslinker, which hardens it up for scuff and abrasion resistance.
Now to heat and feed a pore as they say, minus any form of Ph influence. You have to go through 3 layers of dried resin, one of which is crosslinked , then magically open the pores, and drive this magic food through a shed load of chrome and fatliquors, which took the best part of a week to add correctly. All this can then "as it says on the bottle" be done in a matter of minutes".
Absolute COD s**t. LOL
I challenge you to find a geekier answer to that on Cs today.
Oh and for the record, most car seats are not all leather. The back, the section your bum sits on, and the bolsters are, The sides, back, front will be PVC or artifical leather.
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If it costs 30 pounds an ounce, they will think it cures cancer on that website. Pointless waste of bandwidth that place, its a car FFS not an faberge egg.
One word
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Yes, and no better than tepid water with a little bit of fairy liquid, and rubbed VERY LIGHTLY! I cant stress that enough, Rub hard with anything and you will, wear the finish off.
I am usually useless, But I have studied at the Leather school in Northampton, travelled to every large automotive tannery in the world, and made leather for every single car producer, including a week or two at Costil in Northern france, who once upon a time used to make the leather for Renault.
Therefore I feel I can offer some honest advice here, to stop people shelling out silly money on pointless things, because some detailing god on DW says it works.
I am usually useless, But I have studied at the Leather school in Northampton, travelled to every large automotive tannery in the world, and made leather for every single car producer, including a week or two at Costil in Northern france, who once upon a time used to make the leather for Renault.
Therefore I feel I can offer some honest advice here, to stop people shelling out silly money on pointless things, because some detailing god on DW says it works.
Those products merely give it some sheen, which is the same as when your car is wet "oh its clean you think, doesn't it look nice" until it dries or in this case, rubs off on your jeans.
I honestly wouldn't clean unless the absolutely need it. I hoover mine, and dust em off with a dry rag, If I have 4 year old's feet marks, I literally make a cloth damp, and very gently rub that. The more you clean and rub, the more topcoat you'll eventually remove, and thats what stops the highly pigmented colour coat from rubbing off.
Sure you can "wax" them like you wax the paint, and for the weekorso while it lasts it'll possibly protect it. It will not sink through all the resin and feed the leather. To feed something it has to be alive, and the cow that provided it has long since stopped kicking.
If you left you car outside to rust, chances are the leather on the seats would be the last thing left, after everything else has gone, thats how well its preserved.
I honestly wouldn't clean unless the absolutely need it. I hoover mine, and dust em off with a dry rag, If I have 4 year old's feet marks, I literally make a cloth damp, and very gently rub that. The more you clean and rub, the more topcoat you'll eventually remove, and thats what stops the highly pigmented colour coat from rubbing off.
Sure you can "wax" them like you wax the paint, and for the weekorso while it lasts it'll possibly protect it. It will not sink through all the resin and feed the leather. To feed something it has to be alive, and the cow that provided it has long since stopped kicking.
If you left you car outside to rust, chances are the leather on the seats would be the last thing left, after everything else has gone, thats how well its preserved.
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Mustang, S13, AX GT
I'll get a pic at some point today, but they are standard 172 seats if that helps?
