Lightweight 182 track/road car (Page 6+)

[JonC219]

Spec of the bike please

 

[Nafoff]

work looks great again mate, loving the fuel tank etc,

 

[M4D M4X]

superb!!!!


keep going though.. theres a couple of 106`s out there running around the 200bhp mark and hovering between 690 and 720 ish kilos.... lol

Thanks stu, WOW 690-720kg thats amazing i think i'll have my work cut out to achieve them figures especially on a heavy clio will have to keep looking for more metal to attack now lol.
Oh i tried ringing you earlier last 3 ending in 683 to ask your opinion regarding foam/baffled with sump/without and gravity feed or internal pick up but no answer what time would be best to ring you?

Looking good mate. Did you weigh the removed metal?

Thanks mate, no was going to do it tomorrow but now it seams i'm not finished and more will have to be chopped out lol.
Will weigh it tomorrow though and see the outcome.

Spec of the bike please

Honda cbr600rr 2005 (was standard when i bought it)
Spec list
honda lcr racing team graffix's (2008 season i think)
Blacked out double bubble (also have clear DB)
Stumpy levers in black (also have long type)
goodridge braided hoses (racing type)
Suzuki gsr1000rr K8/9 aero R&G crash bungs modded to fit
Flush fit front led indicators (clear)
Rear seat cowl (also have cbr1000rr fireblade seat cowl needs spraying)
Rear foot rest's removed
R&G tail tidy
Cbr600rr 09-12 akrapovic titanium exhaust (link pipe had to be made from scratch by longlife)
cbr600rr wheel stickers

Also have diamond rear set in black (needs banjo type brake switch to work on road)

Bike is still not finished though only little bits left .

 

[M4D M4X]

work looks great again mate, loving the fuel tank etc,

Thanks Neil, how's things on your car are you still losing faith in it?

Hope not would be a shame to chuck all that work and time that's already been put into it and not get done, maybe seeing how i get on with mine will give you incouragement to get yours done (when you have free time).
Will have to read your project thread again ain't been online often so have missed loads no doubt.

 

[Nafoff]

Thanks Neil, how's things on your car are you still losing faith in it?

Hope not would be a shame to chuck all that work and time that's already been put into it and not get done, maybe seeing how i get on with mine will give you incouragement to get yours done (when you have free time).
Will have to read your project thread again ain't been online often so have missed loads no doubt.

you have missed bugger-all mate,
i haven't seen the car in 6-7 weeks, can't seem to get hold of my mate either, still in 2 minds what to do with it, tbh i can't even be assed to talk about it

 

[frenchthing]

Thanks stu, WOW 690-720kg thats amazing i think i'll have my work cut out to achieve them figures especially on a heavy clio will have to keep looking for more metal to attack now lol.
Oh i tried ringing you earlier last 3 ending in 683 to ask your opinion regarding foam/baffled with sump/without and gravity feed or internal pick up but no answer what time would be best to ring you?

aye, these ol pug bean tins are made of proper filmsy stuff hahaha

ah... sorry... didn`t recognise the number..

er... evenings are usually best bet, that said me and the missus are round her freinds later, so will have to be thursday now if thats any good????

 

[M4D M4X]

I've weighed the metal that was cut out from inside the car and it came to 8.52 kg seams low to me and that it should be more but didn't have a big weighing scales so had to use the kitchen scales 3times and add it together lol.
Will have to buy propper scales and re-test.

you have missed bugger-all mate,
i haven't seen the car in 6-7 weeks, can't seem to get hold of my mate either, still in 2 minds what to do with it, tbh i can't even be assed to talk about it

Gutting, I won't rabbit on about you're car as it would only pi** you off even more no doubt. Hope you get the faith back and find time/place local to you and get back on it.

aye, these ol pug bean tins are made of proper filmsy stuff hahaha

ah... sorry... didn`t recognise the number..

er... evenings are usually best bet, that said me and the missus are round her freinds later, so will have to be thursday now if thats any good????

Haha isn't it something to do with them being galvanised so thinner metal can be used?

No worries, I'll ring you in the evening then cheers stu.

 

[Kenny.s]

Haha isn't it something to do with them being galvanised so thinner metal can be used?

They were just made out of p*ss thin steel, and not much of it lol
I know for a fact I wouldn't have wanted to be in a serious crash in a 205 or a Nova, owned both when I was younger.

The Clio is also galvanised/zinc plated, the main reason for them being comparatively heavy is just down to the amount of steel rather than the thickness, some of it is still paper thin! The tunnel is double skinned, the A&B pillars are made up of 3 or 4 layers. As standard they're pretty strong wee cars.

I take it you dont intend to compete in this car, just track days etc?

It'll be interesting to see what it weighs in at once finished.

I've got a figure I would like to get my car down to, whether or not it's achievable remains to be seen, got to try though!

 

[M4D M4X]

Been pretty busy lately with wedding's party's but still managed to find time to work on the car.

So here goes after finishing the interior (welding up the box for the fuel tank and relocating the gear selector 50mm closer) i then set my sights onto the engine bay and started to attack unwanted metal i was quite surprised that there was loads taken out.

Here's the fab work for the gear selector

Its all welded up and flap disc'd down to a smooth finish.

Here's the engine bay again surprised of how much come out.

And finally after removing the axle and subframe it was time to attack the underside.

This is all i've done at mo but i'm removing all underseal and seam sealer.

 

[Don91]

yeh wheels are big but overall car looks mint mate..

 

[M4D M4X]

yeh wheels are big but overall car looks mint mate..

The wheels will be getting changed to 15" once i've killed the tyres off, i'd also have the brakes downsized to fit 15".

 

[Ryan218]

Like the lengths you have gone to to save weight, interested to see what the final weight is! Thought about fiberglass doors? The standard doors weigh a ton.

 

[M4D M4X]

Like the lengths you have gone to to save weight, interested to see what the final weight is! Thought about fiberglass doors? The standard doors weigh a ton.

Yes have already thought about the panels a company called xsport sells them however at £320ish each a panel i'm going to cut the guts out of the standard's untill i got funds to change doors/boot/bonnet all at once.

 

[frenchthing]

nice work fella......

 

[Ash']

Wow fair play a lot of work what sort of weight are you aiming to get the car down to?

 

[M4D M4X]

Sorry ryan218 the panels are £230 NOT £320.

Stu cheers mate

Ashley it would be nice if it was mid to high 700's/ low 800's.

Unfortiantly i couldn't work on the car saturday as i was fitting a subframe for a forum member that had a suspected bent one, after swapping everything over it turned out that the "new second hand one" he bought was also bent grrr.
So ended up using mine (not that i need it yet anyway lol) due to the hastle i had i lost man hours working on the car .

Just a small update all and also abit of advice really.
So first the update
Been in the garage doing the car since 8pm (Sunday night) and just about to leave to go home for a well needed shower,
i don't envy anyone having to strip the seam sealer and underseal its f**king hard work and takes ages so be prepared for very small progress.

Told you small progress lol
For the advise needed then, what's the small box looking part at the rear passenger wheel arch? (other side don't have one) there's a bolt hole fixing attached but thread looks new and unused.

And also next advice i need is regarding stitch welding the body, does every join have to be welded or is it certain areas?
My plan was to sand blast then seam weld the car and put seam sealer on the outside only.
Then spray stone chip and spray the under body (it's going white engine bay/interior/underbody) still black outside.

 

[HrRACING]

Cool project mate, have sent you a pm.

 

[HrRACING]

Oh, and for seam welding it is best to do the whole thing, but if your not going to just look at the structural areas, around pick up points, mounts and chassis rails / legs.

 

[x8mrk]

Just read from start to finish, turning into a big build.

I'm interested in seeing how this turns out, well done looks like a lot of hard graft has gone in.

 

[M4D M4X]

Just read from start to finish, turning into a big build.

I'm interested in seeing how this turns out, well done looks like a lot of hard graft has gone in.

Just done the same (read from start) and fair play i didn't realise that i was arrogant and stubborn and wouldn't take anyone's advise well as i've previously mentioned i will be defo changing to 15" (stupid idea buying 17" and the brakes) so already looking at replacments oz superleggera's .
As for interested in seeing how this turns out, i am too i'm starting to get fed up of seeing it as a shell with lots of prep work still to be done roll on the building back up especially the interior got some awesome ideas lined up, and thank you regarding the graft comment many of knuckles have been skinned over the course of this project.

Oh, and for seam welding it is best to do the whole thing, but if your not going to just look at the structural areas, around pick up points, mounts and chassis rails / legs.

thanks for the PM will get back to you soon, as for the welding i've done some research and yes your right every join/seam is best to be done but at a 2-3 day time frame i've decided to leave it as its dragging on abit now and will cost me a fair bit in gas for the welder (no account so paying £60 for a hip sized bottle) and finally not that my skills will ever be upto it like propper race car drivers so won't gain anything bar weight from the extra metal added from welding.

 

[x8mrk]

Building race/track cars are a very costly learing curve. Keep at it mate it will be awesome when its finished.

 

[nightSpirit]

Hi dear awesome car's which you shown above i like it and i always want to buy such a car which burn the roads and run so fast and look very beautiful i want to buy such a car if any one know and have any idea for good and faster car where to buy then contact back here???

Can you say trolol?

 

[M4D M4X]

^Lol, ok so another eventfull weekend doing the same thing (scraping off underseal) but finally it's all off :clap:

Ive taken off the fuel tank bracket to try and shred more weight, second pic is the box section i was referring to (passenger rear arch) but i can't remember what's it for so maybe someone can say if it's of importance and needed or not?.

Bought a 20gallon sandblaster in the week and planned to attack the underside this weekend but weather is pethetic (scatered showers) so i'll have to leave it untill a sunny weekend, if we ever get one that is.

I wanna try and eliminate the need for my whiteline ARB so whats people's views on the pure Motorsport rear axle strengthening kit and bearing kit? If fitted together would they be too tough in the event of the axle taking a bang and bend the chassis? If so what item would you suggest in fitting strengthening plates or bearing kit?

 

[JackJack]

I wanna try and eliminate the need for my whiteline ARB so whats people's views on the pure Motorsport rear axle strengthening kit and bearing kit? If fitted together would they be too tough in the event of the axle taking a bang and bend the chassis? If so what item would you suggest in fitting strengthening plates or bearing kit?

They are good bits of kit but people have been advised against using them both together for the reason you stated.

Would it not be better to have a rear arb so you have some more adjust ability for wet/dry/whatever you like?

 

[M4D M4X]

I know what the box part is for now guys turns out its a ph1 design for the exhaust hanger, was thinking to much about stuff to do than look at another members ph1 car in my garage (waiting for a engine change)

They are good bits of kit but people have been advised against using them both together for the reason you stated.

Would it not be better to have a rear arb so you have some more adjust ability for wet/dry/whatever you like?

Thanks for confirming fella, i'll leave the stiffening kit then and order the bearing kit.

Didn't think about the adjustment side of the ARB :banghead:, don't think it would be of any help/use as i'm using cup racer suspension so very hard on the rear end anyway but time will tell.

 

[M4D M4X]

Update 2
Came over the garage yesterday at 16:00 and been out here since, so 1st i've been trying to get the sandblaster working earlier by trying it out on the front anti roll bar so loaded the container with kilm dried sand (been advised to use this but if it's no good i can purchase abrasives from a local company) well didn't get it to work as there's some chunky bits so keep blocking the end, will have to purchase a 1mm mesh sieve before i use it now.

I removed the box that's used as a exhaust mount on ph1's and welded up the seam, i also welded up the grommet holes that's under the standard seat rails.

And finally after trying to find jobs on the shell i could do and not coming up with anything i got bored and decided i'll spray my roll cage ready and leave the ends so it won't burn the paint when it comes to welding it in.

Sorry for the pic quality all using a iPhone 4s as its easier to upload them without going on the laptop.

 

[Ryan218]

I wanna try and eliminate the need for my whiteline ARB so whats people's views on the pure Motorsport rear axle strengthening kit and bearing kit? If fitted together would they be too tough in the event of the axle taking a bang and bend the chassis? If so what item would you suggest in fitting strengthening plates or bearing kit?

I have removed my whiteline ARB and have used some Pure Motorsport toe shims, car feels much more progressive on the limit yet more adjustable on the throttle. Whiteline caused it to pitch onto 3 wheels more and made it feel snatchy. I would go for the axle stiffening kit, this will reduce flex of the axle causing the back wheels to change geometry during hard cornering.

Cage looks sexy!

 

[M4D M4X]

Haven't updated this in some time and to be honest at one point in the project like all others i lost interest in it and didn't touch it for a few months, but at some point i managed to get the inspiration to work on it again so rather than me babbling on and on i'll let the pics do the talking.

 

[Bluebeard]

Fcuking hell!!

That dash looks amazing. Any more pics? Engine bay looks wicked too.

​Well done.

 

[frenchthing]

Badass..... absolutely badass....

 

[Chip-mk1]

Re: 182 track weapon attempt

Nice car, and I like most of what you have done with it.

But listen to this guy from the first page IMHO:

Unless you have 400bhp, you wont need the brakes anyway lol. Just bosh some normal Wilwood/Hi-Specs on there (although you dont really need them either), & fit 15's.

The handling will be considerably worse on the 17's.

 

[Chip-mk1]

The wheels will be getting changed to 15" once i've killed the tyres off, i'd also have the brakes downsized to fit 15".

Apologies, didnt see you have already mentioned about the wheels!

 

[M4D M4X]

Cheers guys glad you like how it's turning out .

Daniel will upload some other pics of the dash for you mate.

Frenchthing thanks for the PM for the fuel tank location helped me out lots .

Yes chip i'll be changing the wheels at a later date but at the moment it's not a priority got more important things to spend money on but yes the last statement you posted still stands.

Here's a few more pics.

The dash originally started as a mk1 16v/Williams so to get the shape i used expanding foam.

I used fibreglass matting once i had the shape, and then removed all the expanding foam and added more matting and tidied it off flatting it with a da and once it was flat i used a thin skim of filler to smooth it.

​For the clocks i'll be using this.

And here's the underside.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Are you using an ECU that can send a datastream to the dash?

Level of prep so far puts a lot of race car builds to shame TBH!

 

[M4D M4X]

Cheers chip
As for the ecu i've decided to ditch the whole lot and use a omex 600 as a standalone, i'll keep some wires of the standard loom just to run the lights/wiper/water bottle/brake pot/fan and have them separate from the engine loom but for the engine side i'll be using a race loom omex sell that's all heat shrinked.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Cool, you can get an interface lead that goes from the ecu to the dash and makes it very easy to see all the temperatures and other info without needing any dash specific sensors.

http://www.race-technology.com/interfaces_2_7533.html

 

[Carbonraider]

Great build so far mate..

Although you using a 2" brush when painting the cage :/



:datrun:

 

[M4D M4X]

Yeah i did see something about a interface lead when i was doing some research, only thing that i had to do as i've removed the abs system was fit a "hall effect" speed sensor to the hub. But for the ecu and loom i'll prob leave all of that till last as i want fred@btm to map it and set it up as he's had previous experience with the dash and of course omex so best man for the job IMO.

 

[Chip-mk1]

I didnt think Fred did mapping at all mate?

Does everything else very well though from what I have seen.

 

[M4D M4X]

Great build so far mate..

Although you using a 2" brush when painting the cage :/

View attachment 99949

:datrun:

Lol no that was my 1st attempt of spaying the cage in post #226 it's all been sanded down since then and re-sprayed after welding feet to the bottom.

I didnt think Fred did mapping at all mate?


Does everything else very well though from what I have seen.

Ah damn, I was always under the impression he did well it will be while before it needs doing so if your right then i'll have to look at where else it can be done.