Low effort, N/S handbrake

[Da]

I've felt this for some time now due to the occasional creek as I've left it on a hill. It's never really been an issue though as it passed it's MOT fine and I always leave it in gear/reverse when parking on a hill.

The O/S seems fine as I've checked the wheels independantly and it seems to be just the N/S with low effort. Now as I understand it the handbrake cable is on a Y shape setup with the adjustor under the centre heat shield so why would one side have less effort than the other?

New pads were fitted all round back in June of this year so they shouldn't be worn at all yet.

Any ideas?

 

[Da]

Anyone?

Going to strip it down this afternoon and have a look if I get chance.

 

[David Ramsey]

I have this exact problem and am yet to solve it

 

[JD]

I had this towards the end of my pads' life fella. I took it to a garage and they said they hadn't adjusted the new pads correctly and therefore they were out of allignment. Not sure if this helps, but sorted my issue out.

 

[Jonny1*2]

One of mine is the same mate. I've just put it down to the mechanism on the caliper itself. Get under and see if the section where the cable changes from 1 to 2 and see if it's straight. Give it a tighten, but they're not the best handbrake anyway really.

 

[David Ramsey]

I've had new pads put in and you can see the arm on the caliper moving when you pull the handbrake

 

[Da]

I stripped it all down last night, disconnected hand brake cable, took pads out etc etc and checked everything.

The piston did seem a little stiffer to wind in/out when compared to the O/S caliper.
Pads all seem perfectly lined up both sides.
Bled the caliper and there didn't seem to be any air in what so ever.
Reconnected everything, put it all back together and tightened the handbrake cable.

Handbrake is now noticeably tighter when operating from inside the car but the low effort is still apparent.
I changed all the lines for braided a few months back (when I changed the pads) and I'm not sure if this is related or not?

Might end up changing the caliper, but at £170+ vat new this is a last resort to be fair.

Any one any further ideas?

 

[rory182]

No idea, changed both my handbrake cables not long ago after one snapped and within days it had loosened off again. PITA, always leave it in gear at the mo but due a service soon anyway.

 

[Da]

Yeah it's a PITA although it doesn't affect me day-to-day thankfully, I'd just like it sorting so it's 100%.

Might have to have another look this weekend, but to be honest, I'm running out of ideas.

 

[Jonny1*2]

They're just crap handbrakes mate really. The braided lines will make no difference to the handbrake tension.

How tight have you made it mate?

 

[Da]

Yeah I appreciate they're crap but this is crap to the point where I have to leave it in gear or it creeps down the hill - with the O/S wheel still locked.

Anyway I've just ordered a new caliper so I'll be fitting that on Saturday and fingers crossed it should cure it, if not at least I can eliminate the caliper as an issue.

Handbrake handle is now about 3/4 clicks maximum.

 

[Rob669]

I'll be interested to know if replacing the caliper has made a difference.

Mine's like it as well, a ph1 172. When I took the centre section of the exhaust shield off I could see that the adjuster isn't 100% straight and there is only one nut to tighten it. That's the reason why IMO. Although I also suspect my calipers aren't in A1 condition - the car is 9 years old and has covered 117k.

 

[Da]

Yeah if the adjustor isn't quite stright then it'll definitely affect the effort mate.

I'll let you know how the caliper gets on, I'm pretty sure this is the cause though after dismantling it all the other night.

 

[Jonny1*2]

have to admit, it was my NS handbrake cable i was having issues with too. strange! struggled like hell to get the pads in the caliper was practically siezed, which i think was down to the handbrake mechanism. Might change mine also if this is the case Daz.

 

[Da]

Well I'll have one spare mate if it doesn't solve it, lol!

TBH I'm certain it's the piston sticking that's causing the issues, it's just really annoying as otherwise my brakes are spot on! :dapprove:

Will keep this updated either way.

 

[Jonny1*2]

Have you tried removing and regreasing the sliders? did that with mine and it helped slightly

 

[Da]

Tried the WD-40 trick yeah. Has helped slightly but still nowhere near the effort I want it to be at mate.

 

[Da]

Right, changed my caliper and bled the brakes again yesterday. Haven't had the car out yet though so I cannot say if it has solved my problem.

I will update this with my findings later today.

 

[Gobsheene]

I have the same issue with the Passenger side brake not holding at all.

I have had a fiddle with the adjuster on the caliper with an 8mm spanner and theres so much play in it.

I'm thinking snapped cable TBH but have not had the chance to see if the lever moves with the hand brake.

Ouch at the price of the caliper.

 

[ForceIndia]

Had same issue with mine. Fred fixed it, no new parts reqd. I'd try emailing him.

 

[Da]

Cheers Warren, will drop Fred a message.

Initial findings are that whilst the effort has improved, it is still not at a level I'm happy with so my quest continues...

 

[Da]

Right well after giving the car a bit of use and using the handbrake a few times I can now report that is has slowly got tighter and tighter and I now feel that the effort has improved drastically - I once again feel safe leaving my car on a hill! :approve:

So, to anyone who suffers from this issue, I would suggest changing your caliper.

 

[kilmo_172cup]

I have exactly the same issue with my handbrake effort, but on the drivers side. I have been long convinced that it is due to an issue with the caliper itself not biting hard enough on the disc when the handbrake is applied after replacing the pads and cable and adjusting the tightness.

Can I ask if you got the caliper brand new from Renault in the end?

 

[David Ramsey]

Got mine sorted on saturday. Before that it wouldn't hold at all, if you pulled it on as hard as possible I could still push the car with one hand and rolled away on any kind of bank.

Tried adjusting it with the adjuster under the exhaust but that wasn't the problem. It needed to be adjusted on the caliper and is now only 1 click, 2 if you're on a steep bank. No parts required.

 

[Da]

David - having had my calipers in bits on several occasions I could see no way of adjusting the cable where it meets the caliper. How is this achieved?

Kilmo - I bought one secondhand in the end, new from Renault they are very expensive.

I'm contemplating having the two calipers I have spare reconditioned just in case.

 

[kilmo_172cup]

David - I would also be interested in knowing how you adjust the caliper from the caliper itself?

Da - Thanks. Where did you get the secondhand caliper from and how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking?

 

[Da]

Kilmo - I ordered one through www.partsgateway.co.uk and I think in total I paid about £35 delivered. Comes with a 90 day warranty too.

 

[Fred@BTM]

i'm yet to see a knackered rear caliper on one, its always the cables or them "dropping out of sync" easy to fix

 

[Da]

Care to elaborate at all Fred?

 

[richy22]

Mine is knackered but I cant get the bottom bolt off that holds the caliper on (

My seal has gone on mine and I got the Caliper for £15 anyway. Sod trying to put a new seal on it (thats whats gone on my surrent one.)

 

[Fred@BTM]

yeah easy - back off the tension on the cables via the adjuster, unhook them from the calipers, check the handbrake arms are free to move, pump the pedal a load of times, whop the cables back on and wang the cables back up - done

 

[Da]

whop and wang

Cheers Fred, why didn't you join this thread weeks ago!

 

[David Ramsey]

you will need to turn the pisten on caliper till wheel is locked up, then turn it back quarter turn handbrake will be s**t hot