Aren't the cup gearboxes lower final drive anyway?
I've certainly never felt mine needed changing
I've certainly never felt mine needed changing
Aren't the cup gearboxes lower final drive anyway?
I've certainly never felt mine needed changing
Thinking about it. The quaife will *effectively* lock. As when I drove chips turbo at Bedford(and 2damsly will vouch) I left a set of 11's away from him when giving it the big one in a straight line.
Ph2 are lower than Ph1
Quaife don't offer a different FD as its not a motorsport part IMO.
Plated diffs do push you wide as it removes the differential in wheel speeds, just change the driving style needed, still quicker with that trait.
End of the day a quaiffe with R888's is going to be night and day compared to no diff and rainsports lol
It will make more differences than coilovers IME, which means for you it will add about 50mph to every corner I guess, lol.
How much are the people getting Quaife's for then? With the FD fitted but no fitment to the actual box.
I bought my box 2nd hand for £1500 which seems more than any 2nd hand Quaife box that I have seen on here?
Depends how the ramp angle is set, but yes a general trait is to increase understeer in certain circumstances.
Also worth mentioning the gripper requires a non standard gearbox oil to be used, so thats another small cost as well.
My costs were:-
Quaife with crownwheel fitted £910
Full rebuild, everything replaced £420
Supply of a 4.07 final drive £120
Gearbox delivery £20
If you can get a cheaper rebuild and already have a 4.07 final then costs will come down a bit
A locked diffs a locked diff Chip, ramp angles only determine how quickly it snatches and the preload how well it holds together.
My argument wasn't cost in any way shape or form for ref as it keeps getting mentioned, I was just looking for the best. Morris box oil isn't that expensive anyway so its pence over your standard elf stuff, I wouldn't choose one or the other over oil price anyway.
900 quid new for a quaiffe complete with the machining to fit the flywheel but not fitted in the box.
Then approx 225 for a rebuild and fit of the diff by agency (I had two done and one was 175 and one was 275 IIRC)
So 1125 ish, based on having a decent condition box, thats not including fluids or any labour to fit and remove the box though.
Gripper IIRC was slightly cheaper for the diff, but then more expensive to fit the final drive to, at 1500 though you still paid top price for it IMHO.
So the gripper is cheaper at retail prices (can be found cheaper) against your reduced price for a Quaife that you can source. Gripper don't have to rebuild the box FYI, anyone can.
Standard crownwheel can be used anyway iirc so that comparison is fairer.
I have a Gripper plated diff in 172cup with ITB's .... would LOVE to tell you how amazing it is, and how it totally changed the cars behaviour on track.
Honestly? I really couldnt tell the difference!! definately not worth the £1k in my experience unless its for a racecar where every tenth of a second counts.
I do loads of trackdays and am doing all the Renault sport ones this year if anybody wanted to try a Gripper diff in a Clio then they are welcome to have a drive.
In my experience a decent set of slicks made a MUCH bigger difference.... but the biggest difference was having Mark Fish setting the car up and speccing all the spring rates and geo etc etc...
Oh dear... lol
I broke a driveshaft with a Gripper in my Clio and I lost ALL drive.... I know what should happen in theory. But in practice I had zero drive to the other wheel.
I've driven Lee's at Bedford, and I can tell you, there is a difference.
I also noticed when racing against James at Mallory, getting the power down out of the hairpin, I had to be slightly more gentle on the throttle and lost any advantage I had gained under braking into said corner.
We got the Quaife megga cheap, so really there was no contest in decision making.
You can learn to drive them quickly, but you just can't plant your foot down and hope for the best.
The ones we had in Hungary were set very aggressive, and would understeer at a drop of a hat, again you have to learn the knack.
I've no hard feelings to you or anyone else who occasionally throws a wobbler at me on here mate.Chip - Without us punching each other?
Is that Donnington Tony? The 2nd tier of that kerb looks sore.
You would be going some left foot braking at the type of corner (tight mid speed) you typically lift a wheel, a sequential box you might manage but it's just not a feasible option afaic. I would think the diff will not function right from when it hits the kerbs until after its on the ground and its settled again so quite a time to not be pushing forward.
I've no hard feelings to you or anyone else who occasionally throws a wobbler at me on here mate.
Would happily help out every user of the site. To me we're all good mates and any disagreement is mere friendly banter. If others view it differently then it's probably less fun for them talking on here to me than it is me to them.