Machine alloys or longer hub bolts?

[JB21]

Had an issue were my wheel nuts were coming loose on track after only 10 minutes, they were literally hand tight which is not good. The issue is the alloys are very wide at 8j so the bolts aren't protruding enough so i can only get 7 turns on the bolt.

So do i use something like this to drill out the alloy holes to gain a few extra mm so i get a few more turns on the bolts?

Or...

Will i need to buy extended hub bolts which are expensive and a PITA to remove and fit?

Any other inexpensive options?

 

[PAUL JA]

What about converting to stud and nut, makes wheels changing a doddle

 

[iimushroomzii]

You can't just drill them out with a cone drill, the taper will be wrong, and unless you got the exact size drill you need, it won't fit down into the hole to drill anyway?

 

[DCELEC 182]

Stud and nut conversion, definitely.

 

[JB21]

Wheel holes and nuts in question...

 

[JB21]

Not sure how I'll convert to a stud and nut kit when my hubs aren't threaded?

Looks like longer hub bolts maybe the cheapest option.

 

[Knuckles]

Jesus Christ don’t drill them with that!

If anything, have a machine shop remove material from the mating face of the wheel. But that’ll probably be costly. @Ricardos could give you an idea of price.

I assume your existing studs are threadlocked in? A bit of heat and a couple of nuts tightened together should be enough to get them out.

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

The standard studs might just be pressed in, so could just have longer ones put in. Easier than having the wheel bolt holes machined, which could compromise the strength of the wheel.

 

[JB21]

The standard studs might just be pressed in, so could just have longer ones put in. Easier than having the wheel bolt holes machined, which could compromise the strength of the wheel.

Yep press in studs mate. Yeah longer wheel studs seems the best solution. You've just got to remove the stupid hardbrake shoes and backing plates on the rear, and I've read the spline sizes are different front to rear on Celica's.

Nothing is simple.

 

[STEVE.M]

Nothing is simple.

Could be, unless it poses a clearance problem.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20MM-4x1...397463?hash=item41d4764ed7:g:1E4AAMXQ9rVQ6tAo

 

[JB21]

The solution...
https://www.fensport.co.uk/parts/to...els/long-comp-wheel-stud-65mm-toyota-m12x1-5/

 

[Ricardos]

Assuming the wheel nuts have the same taper angle as the wheels,and there's no paint on the wheels stopping the nut mating up to the wheel 100%.

Step away from the stepper drill bit, do not DIY the wheel bolt holes AT ALL. Bar changing the studs to longer ones you could have the backs of the wheels machined 4-5mm, but if you're interchanging wheels then it won't 100% solve the problem.....

Longer studs, high tensile at that too.

 

[neil a]

I would think the excessive build up of paint/powdercoat on the wheel has more to do with them coming loose than thread length, at 7 turns you should have fairly decent engagement.
You can see in the pic the way the nut has dug into the paint on the wheel, that should ideally be a metal to metal contact with the full tapered face contacting.

 

[JB21]

I would think the excessive build up of paint/powdercoat on the wheel has more to do with them coming loose than thread length, at 7 turns you should have fairly decent engagement.
You can see in the pic the way the nut has dug into the paint on the wheel, that should ideally be a metal to metal contact with the full tapered face contacting.

Yeah was thinking that, I'll get my dremmel on them to clean them all up. Thing is its hard to recreate track conditions on the road so wouldn't know it worked until on track.