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Machine polishing

Car  LY R26 #288
So where do I start?.

What machine polisher? What type of polisher?

Any pointers?.

Any info will be of help. I'd like to get a cheap or second hand machine polisher and give it a go. I've got my old Punto sitting outside that will eventually go down the scrappy so I can practice on that :).

I've seen some of the results of paint correction with a machine polisher and it looks amazing. I'd love to freshen my arctic blue right up.
 
I use a silverline silverstorm rotary polisher (only machine polisher I have ever used) and upon what I had read and been told I didn't find it hard to use or scary. They are more dangerous as in they can burn through your paint work but you have to be a right nob end to do that. Read a Guide on it, go slow and always keep moving. My phase 1 172 in titanium came up stunning with my rotary. Especially if you have a car to work on as a trainingcar so to speak go rotary. My rotary cost £50 brand new with 3 pads (strong cutting pad, wool pad, and soft pad for finishing)
 
Thanks for the replies. I know there is some good guides on detailing world so I'll have a browse. I thought there was two types of polisher? and one was harder to use than the other?
 
I've had a good read through that guide. Some good info in there. Seems pretty straight forward. Just some practicing needed I think.
 
I use a silverline silverstorm rotary polisher (only machine polisher I have ever used) and upon what I had read and been told I didn't find it hard to use or scary. They are more dangerous as in they can burn through your paint work but you have to be a right nob end to do that. Read a Guide on it, go slow and always keep moving. My phase 1 172 in titanium came up stunning with my rotary. Especially if you have a car to work on as a trainingcar so to speak go rotary. My rotary cost £50 brand new with 3 pads (strong cutting pad, wool pad, and soft pad for finishing)

That is all well and good, but how much paint are you using? Do you have a PDG (paint depth guage)? If not, with a wool pad, "strong cutting pad" and a rotary on Renault paint, you could be removing more CC than you want to, meaning you'll be able to correct it two maybe three times before you start to get dangerously low on CC.

People still don't seem to understand the main point/skill that is required in paint correction. It is the simple act of doing while removing the least amount of CC possible...
 
I would start with that mate and see where you go.

Get a pre-wax cleanser and a glaze for using after the polishihng stage.
 
Cool, thanks for the help. How hard is Renault paint btw?.

So is everything in this package ideal for noobs as in the compound pads etc or should we buy other polishes pad etc

Yeah includes everything except 400 grit sand paper. lol! :eek:
 
I would start with that mate and see where you go.

Get a pre-wax cleanser and a glaze for using after the polishihng stage.

Pre-wax cleaner gLaze then wax in that order after the polishing ?
I've got the r222 pre wax cleaner and britmax blackmax for the glaze are they good enough cheers for the help?
 
Perfect mate but, if you were short for time just go with the R222's it has fillers anyway so will help wit the finish. If you have time definitely go over it with #4. I've still to try #4 but heard nothing but good things mate. What wax you using?
 
R222 mate had it for ages havnt really tried anything else whats better for arctic blue?
 
Wax by applicator mate, everything else via DA, glazes and cleansers are always best via DA.

Wax is okay mate just not durable though, no point gettings all that perfect and then the wax lasting 1 month. I'll have a think. Even a dodo panle pot would be a good start, maybe some Supernatural or Purple haze. Natty's Blue is one of JD's favourites aswell and cheap.
 
Wax by applicator mate, everything else via DA, glazes and cleansers are always best via DA.

Wax is okay mate just not durable though, no point gettings all that perfect and then the wax lasting 1 month. I'll have a think. Even a dodo panle pot would be a good start, maybe some Supernatural or Purple haze. Natty's Blue is one of JD's favourites aswell and cheap.

Application by hand. Am I doing it wrong?
 
As in with your fingers? Or do you use an applicator.
 
Wax by applicator mate, everything else via DA, glazes and cleansers are always best via DA.

Wax is okay mate just not durable though, no point gettings all that perfect and then the wax lasting 1 month. I'll have a think. Even a dodo panle pot would be a good start, maybe some Supernatural or Purple haze. Natty's Blue is one of JD's favourites aswell and cheap.
Nice one mate I'll take a look at them in a minute havnt really tried dodo products to be onest I don't mind buying more expensive products along asbther worth the money
 
As in my fingers man. I find I get a nice even coverage that way and theres something satisfying about applying wax to a clean surface by hand :o
 
As in my fingers man. I find I get a nice even coverage that way and theres something satisfying about applying wax to a clean surface by hand :o
Totally mate, i've yet to even do it by hand, got my first one coming up soon with vics concours Red. It's quite cheap but offers some finish so I don't mind wasting some by doing it by hand.
 
Nice one mate I'll take a look at them in a minute havnt really tried dodo products to be onest I don't mind buying more expensive products along asbther worth the money
Well imo the best mid range wax on the market is... http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/raceglaze-signature-series-55.html 6 months durability, a finish that's second to none, beading, sheeting all punching above their weight. 55% Carnuba by volume, more than some £200 Swissvax waxes.

Also... http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care-exterior/wax-polish/race-glaze-sample-wax-taster-55/ £5 sample mate.

Trying to think of anything else that half decent.
 
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