That Liquid Yellow bonnet I'd class as medium-hard, which surprised me too!
As for the MF system, it does have it's place but on softer paints the removal rate can be rather aggressive. People fool themselves into thinking its a safe way to easy correction, which it is in terms of not burning paint, but you can still breakthrough if you remove too much clearcoat.
As with all things, you really need to assess clearcoat removal whilst polishing and also try and establish roughly how much you have, especially if you haven't owned the car from new yourself and there don't know if a car has been polished previously.
For me the DA system is useful in a collection alongside a rotary. I will tend to use it on harder paints which don't have too many deeper scratches. The firm nature of the backing plate means the MF pads don't 'contour' into a scratch as you pass over a panel so 'roudning' off an RDS is less effective when compared to foam.
For a beginner, on Renault paint, I'd stick with foam and a DA at first until you understand what you are doing, how and why. Then progress on to more advanced polishing techniques which require a bit more caution such as the MF system and rotary polishing. Also on softer paints the MF system will almost always require further refining and the MF Finishing Wax/Pad don't leave a sharp enough finish for my liking. I can actually see the difference under a light, it's not just detailing b*llshit.
Stick to foam at first. Menz is a strong choice too - 203S and 106FA being a good choice and see how you get on from there. The CG Hex Logic pads are great via DA and the open cell foamed ones allow you to cut and finish down well in the same polishing set.
HTH,
Russ.
