Mk2 Clio - AutoSOLO to RallyCross

[Jaack]

Hi all 😌

Just posting a thread about the journey I'm going to take from taking my little road standard Clio, & get it race ready for AutoSOLO's and RallyCross, & everything in between! :yum:

Please feel free to comment & offer advice, this will be my first time doing anything like this so any help & advice will be greatly appreciated! & also up for the banter too! :tongueclosed:

Hope you enjoy the read! :up::car::stig:

 

[Jaack]

So I bought my Clio last weekend and here it is as it sits on my drive.

The pink seat covers and steering wheel cover is for sale if anyone is interested.. :tearsofjoy:Haha

Nice and cosy in my garage, calm before the storm!

Will be working on it on the weekend, but just to make it a bit more driveable. I noticed a little oil leak in the engine & the battery died.. great start! :unamused:

Can't wait to get started on it & watch it progress into a race car! 🔨:spanner::car::stig:

 

[Coops Mk1]

Could be interesting this, what's the end plan in terms of spec? Engine, suspension etc etc

 

[Pauleds]

Just remember Rallyx is a glorified more expensive version of banger racing.
Be prepared to have a damaged car at some point

It didn't come home looking that tidy, or as long as that!
(Although I will say the racing bit was good fun, but it was £300+ for a total of 12 miles + the cost of a written off shell)
Autosolo on the other hand are great fun and soo much cheaper

 

[McGherkin]

AlanWak autosolos a Clio, very well in fact, so I'd recommend having a look at his thread for some pointers on setup etc.

I autosolo too, but I use an MX5 (and the Volvo, as per avatar, lol). It's great fun, 20x 40 second runs in a day for £20, I'm off sprinting this weekend, will get 4-5 40 second runs for £100!

 

[Jaack]

Could be interesting this, what's the end plan in terms of spec? Engine, suspension etc etc

End plan will be:
• Totally stripped with roll cage
• Bucket seats & harness
• Upgrade engine to 1.6 16v
• Strut braces
• Race suspension with upgraded braking system (hoses, discs, pads etc)
• Negative camber on the wheels
• Cat-less exhaust
• Change the glass windows
• & a few modifications in the engine bay.

I will probably be changing the spec to meet MSA Regs to suit what event I will be doing.
I will probably think of a few more things as I progress through, but for now I just want to make the car as light as I can & work on handling & braking. No point in going fast if you can't stop & turn lol

 

[Jaack]

Just remember Rallyx is a glorified more expensive version of banger racing.
Be prepared to have a damaged car at some point
View attachment 181723
It didn't come home looking that tidy, or as long as that!
(Although I will say the racing bit was good fun, but it was £300+ for a total of 12 miles + the cost of a written off shell)
Autosolo on the other hand are great fun and soo much cheaper

I did think about banger racing but couldn't afford to buy a new car/shell after every race because they get damaged beyond repair! 😂

 

[Jaack]

AlanWak autosolos a Clio, very well in fact, so I'd recommend having a look at his thread for some pointers on setup etc.

I autosolo too, but I use an MX5 (and the Volvo, as per avatar, lol). It's great fun, 20x 40 second runs in a day for £20, I'm off sprinting this weekend, will get 4-5 40 second runs for £100!

Thanks for that! :up: I will have a look to see what I can use lol

Just want to do autosolos/tests so I can get better experience at handling the car etc, plus they look great fun too! & like you said, compare to other events they are much cheaper! :grin:

Best of luck for this weekend! I'd like to have a go at sprints & Time Attacks in the future once I get the Clio prepped!

 

[Pauleds]

I did think about banger racing but couldn't afford to buy a new car/shell after every race because they get damaged beyond repair! 😂

Autograss racing rather than banger racing isn't as damaging thesedays as they have tightened up the rules a bit.
If you want to go racing, its certainly something worth looking at and doesn't break the bank unlike the MSA ruled events that require everything to be dated/homolgated etc.
Have a look into it. I started autograss/banger racing when I was 15 and taught me a lot.

 

[AlanWak]

If you're stripping it out then you won't be able to use it for Autosolos, and many other events. Some Autosolos (not many) do have a "highly modified" class, but you'll end up against some serious kit there, and the class doesn't count for overall results.

Autotest classes vary, but again I'd keep it more standard to avoid being in the highly modified classes. An Autotest special isn't really useable on any other type of event.

If you want a versatile car then leaving it more standard will open far more doors. To be truly competitive in Rallycross you'll need to make modifications which will take it far away from other disciplines.

Why go 1.6? Are there class breaks at 1.6 in the events you want to do? Most are 1400, 1800/2000 and over 1800/2000. A 1600 can leave you being uncompetitive in class.

Before diving in to modifying the car, consider what sort of events you want to do. What is your budget, how far do you want to travel, how much time do you have, ...? My 172 is pretty standard but very competitive on Autosolos and I can use it on a wide variety of other events - Sprinting tomorrow and I go shopping in it. I'm getting one practice run and two timed runs for £135 tomorrow, why am I doing it? 1 3/4 laps of Castle Combe per run. Twelve 65 to 75 second runs for £35 last Sunday on the Ross MC Autosolo at Mitcheldean.

Personally I don't see the point in spending time and money on a car which won't be suitable for anything in particular. Choose some specific disciplines on which to focus and make modifications to suit those Regs.

 

[Brushwood69]

@McGherkin

I'm off sprinting this weekend

Treloy or Combe? I'm at Treloy with TT

 

[McGherkin]

Treloy!

Probably going to ditch the drive and save my money though.

 

[Brushwood69]

Shame, could have popped over and said hello you were in class A3 right?

 

[McGherkin]

I'll still be there with the car, my uncle'll still be driving. Will keep an eye out

 

[Jaack]

Autograss racing rather than banger racing isn't as damaging thesedays as they have tightened up the rules a bit.
If you want to go racing, its certainly something worth looking at and doesn't break the bank unlike the MSA ruled events that require everything to be dated/homolgated etc.
Have a look into it. I started autograss/banger racing when I was 15 and taught me a lot.

I do like the look of autograss, I might give it a go & then go on to autocross & then hopefully rally cross. What you think?

If you're stripping it out then you won't be able to use it for Autosolos, and many other events. Some Autosolos (not many) do have a "highly modified" class, but you'll end up against some serious kit there, and the class doesn't count for overall results.

Autotest classes vary, but again I'd keep it more standard to avoid being in the highly modified classes. An Autotest special isn't really useable on any other type of event.

If you want a versatile car then leaving it more standard will open far more doors. To be truly competitive in Rallycross you'll need to make modifications which will take it far away from other disciplines.

Why go 1.6? Are there class breaks at 1.6 in the events you want to do? Most are 1400, 1800/2000 and over 1800/2000. A 1600 can leave you being uncompetitive in class.

Before diving in to modifying the car, consider what sort of events you want to do. What is your budget, how far do you want to travel, how much time do you have, ...? My 172 is pretty standard but very competitive on Autosolos and I can use it on a wide variety of other events - Sprinting tomorrow and I go shopping in it. I'm getting one practice run and two timed runs for £135 tomorrow, why am I doing it? 1 3/4 laps of Castle Combe per run. Twelve 65 to 75 second runs for £35 last Sunday on the Ross MC Autosolo at Mitcheldean.

Personally I don't see the point in spending time and money on a car which won't be suitable for anything in particular. Choose some specific disciplines on which to focus and make modifications to suit those Regs.

The car will probably be staying standard for a while so that I can do AutoSOLO's & tests. Then after a while I'd like to go on to autocross which does require the car to be modified. Fire extinguisher, mud flaps etc.
I want to (eventually) upgrade to a 1.6 16v cz I have seen some categories which are 'up to 1.6 16v' so wanted to be in the top end of that category. Like I said this is my first time doing something like this so I will have more of a definite idea of where I want to take this the more involved I get :blush:

 

[AlanWak]

Yes, get out there and start competing in some disciplines with the car as it is. Autosolos, Autotests, 12 Cars, Targa Rallies, ... You'll find out what you like.

You might enjoy uprating cars, but I'd start driving on events and then determine what you want to upgrade. Diving in and pulling the car apart may end up with a car which is going nowhere and doesn't meet the rules for any disciplines.

Join a local motor club which runs the types of events you want to do and enjoy yourself. You don't need anything special to start.

 

[Jaack]

Yes, get out there and start competing in some disciplines with the car as it is. Autosolos, Autotests, 12 Cars, Targa Rallies, ... You'll find out what you like.

You might enjoy uprating cars, but I'd start driving on events and then determine what you want to upgrade. Diving in and pulling the car apart may end up with a car which is going nowhere and doesn't meet the rules for any disciplines.

Join a local motor club which runs the types of events you want to do and enjoy yourself. You don't need anything special to start.

Yeah for now I just want to get used to handling & driving the car in a race environment so will be keeping it pretty standard, might just put better brakes on. Just want to get as much experience as I can & start understanding the car better :blush:

Yes I see what you mean, no point in taking things out/putting things in if the race type I'm going for doesn't require it & then just leaves me with a shell with car parts all over the garage floor! 😂

Thanks for your advice Al. Did you end up racing on the weekend after? If so how did you do?

 

[Jaack]

So did a bit of tinkering with the car tonight & after putting the recharged battery in it's a relief to say that the car started first time!! :laughing:

Also got under the car again & changed the oil & oil filter.

As you can see it's was a right mess! I just hope that the oil there is from an overspill & not a leak somewhere! :weary:

The difference between the new & old filter! :frowning:..

Next step for me is to have a look at the braking & suspension. Thinking of putting 182 Cup brakes on the front & Eibachs lowering springs all around. Then hopefully start looking at some local autosolos :up:

 

[Jaack]

Obviously if that's 182s will fit, I haven't done the research on it yet lol


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[AlanWak]

I wouldn't bother uprating the brakes at this stage, just make sure they work properly. Autosolos aren't hard on brakes, decent standard pads will be fine. I'd focus on suspension as you mentioned, going a little lower and stiffer. This is where the compromises start, you probably wouldn't want to go lower for Autograss/Autocrosss/Rallycross.

Just use the tyres you have for now, getting round the tests will be your main focus, speed will come later. Michelin PS3s are really the best tyre for Autosolos and Sprints - all the Clio runners were on Michelins at the Great Western Sprint last Saturday. Uniroyal RainSports are ok, cheap, need more air as the sidewalls are soft.

 

[Jaack]

I wouldn't bother uprating the brakes at this stage, just make sure they work properly. Autosolos aren't hard on brakes, decent standard pads will be fine. I'd focus on suspension as you mentioned, going a little lower and stiffer. This is where the compromises start, you probably wouldn't want to go lower for Autograss/Autocrosss/Rallycross.

Really? I thought the brakes would of had a hammering lol
I'm probably going to run with the lower suspension for a bit because I'm probably going to be autosolos & tests for a while, & then when I progress on I'll swap the suspension over. What suspension have you got on your 172?

Cracking video mate fair play! Was it a good weekend?


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[AlanWak]

You'll only be on a test for 60 to 90 seconds and braking from relatively low speeds. If an Autosolo is set out to comply with the Blue Book then you're not going to need the handbrake, driving a turn is usually way faster than handbraking, if it's not too tight, momentum is king.

You WILL be chaning direction a great deal so I'd start with suspension, but again you don't have to do much. I just run Cup dampers, Eibach springs and Powerflex bushes (mainly purple, but going black as they need replacement). Also look at engine and gearbox mounts including the dog bone. All this should help with traction. I spin inside wheels as there's less weight on them in turns, but I'll go stiffer suspension first, an LSD is a long way doiwn the list.

My next area of attention is seating, I need to be located better and a little lower. A Jon Fox subframe and seat will help a great deal.

Back to my video, that was from the RosSolo a couple of weeks ago. I was lying second overall (to an MX5, 0.5 secs in front of a Trophy). Autosolos are normally split in to Groups - and you take turns in the prepare to drive/drive/marshal cycle. Those in the overall positions around me had their runs before me, in the dry. It rained for me, I ended up fifth and lost loads of Championship points!

Last weekend was a Sprint at Castle Combe. I don't enjoy Sprints, too much hanging around, little seat time and expensive. But it was the first round of the Bristol MC Clio Cup Championship so I had to have a go. Sunday was a Targa Rally at Wethersfield in my 1400 Rover. Great fun, driving or navigating all day, but I was never going to come anywhere as I'm down on power/too heavy. So we had fun, too many cones hit (10 secs a cone) and I had a wrong test (brain fade on my behalf). Your Clio should be good for Targas as well, plus they can be loose so you get some of your Rallycross/Autocross/Autograss action. Targa Rallies run to Road Rally Regulations so you'll need a road legal car with trim, just as for Autosolos.

 

[Jaack]

You'll only be on a test for 60 to 90 seconds and braking from relatively low speeds. If an Autosolo is set out to comply with the Blue Book then you're not going to need the handbrake, driving a turn is usually way faster than handbraking, if it's not too tight, momentum is king.

You WILL be chaning direction a great deal so I'd start with suspension, but again you don't have to do much. I just run Cup dampers, Eibach springs and Powerflex bushes (mainly purple, but going black as they need replacement). Also look at engine and gearbox mounts including the dog bone. All this should help with traction. I spin inside wheels as there's less weight on them in turns, but I'll go stiffer suspension first, an LSD is a long way doiwn the list.

My next area of attention is seating, I need to be located better and a little lower. A Jon Fox subframe and seat will help a great deal.

Back to my video, that was from the RosSolo a couple of weeks ago. I was lying second overall (to an MX5, 0.5 secs in front of a Trophy). Autosolos are normally split in to Groups - and you take turns in the prepare to drive/drive/marshal cycle. Those in the overall positions around me had their runs before me, in the dry. It rained for me, I ended up fifth and lost loads of Championship points!

Last weekend was a Sprint at Castle Combe. I don't enjoy Sprints, too much hanging around, little seat time and expensive. But it was the first round of the Bristol MC Clio Cup Championship so I had to have a go. Sunday was a Targa Rally at Wethersfield in my 1400 Rover. Great fun, driving or navigating all day, but I was never going to come anywhere as I'm down on power/too heavy. So we had fun, too many cones hit (10 secs a cone) and I had a wrong test (brain fade on my behalf). Your Clio should be good for Targas as well, plus they can be loose so you get some of your Rallycross/Autocross/Autograss action. Targa Rallies run to Road Rally Regulations so you'll need a road legal car with trim, just as for Autosolos.

That's brill Al thank you!
I was about to ask you what would be the next few steps for me but you've already given me to a great to-do list! I will be cracking on with that as soon as I can!
Do you think the 1.2 engine would be good for Targa Rallies?
Yeah I look forward to driving on the loose, hopefully get a little bit of sideways action! Haha but it's handy that the car will be the same spec as Autosolos, less work to do on the car to change between the 2.


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[AlanWak]

The class break on Autosolos and Targas is normally at 1400 so you'll be down a little on power, but I've seen 1 litre Micras win Autosolos! As you need to do little to the car to start competing, just make sure that the main components work and it's fully road legal. Then get out there, seat time is key to improve.

 

[Jaack]

The class break on Autosolos and Targas is normally at 1400 so you'll be down a little on power, but I've seen 1 litre Micras win Autosolos! As you need to do little to the car to start competing, just make sure that the main components work and it's fully road legal. Then get out there, seat time is key to improve.

Yeah that will be my plan. I just want to get the car to a good condition, so may change brakes pads & discs & just check over a few more other things & then get the springs & seat in. I just want to get out there as soon as possible & get some track time in! lol I don't think my local club do Targa Rallies so I will have to keep looking around for a club which does do them.


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[AlanWak]

I don't know exactly where you are in South Wales, but Kidwelly used to run a Targa at Pembrey. Then there's the Classic Tracks, Ystwyth, ... For Autosolos, take a look at the Autosolo app which has dates for most events around the country.

 

[Jaack]

I don't know exactly where you are in South Wales, but Kidwelly used to run a Targa at Pembrey. Then there's the Classic Tracks, Ystwyth, ... For Autosolos, take a look at the Autosolo app which has dates for most events around the country.

I will have a look thank you.
I noticed when I was driving it that when I full lock the wheel to the right there's a clunking noise... great!..
I'm hoping it's the suspension which I'll be changing anyway but I'll also have a look at the track rods & everything. Any suggestions on what else I should look at?


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[AlanWak]

CV joint.

 

[Jaack]

After much research today it seems that the clunking noise is most likely down to the CV joint. So will be purchasing a second hand driveshaft to replace it with [emoji846] seen a brilliant explainitory video on YouTube & im looking forward to getting my hands dirty on this one! Just need to buy a crate of WD40! Haha


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[Jaack]

CV joint.

Sorry Al didn't realise you had replied before writing my previous post lol


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[Jaack]

For Autosolos, take a look at the Autosolo app which has dates for most events around the country.

What app is this Alan? Can't seem to find it [emoji53]


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[James363]

Putting bucket seats in mine made a very large difference to the feel of the car, and probably took quite some weight out. I would recommend changing the brake fluid as well. Doesn't need to be anything special, most on here use ATE blue. Make sure carrier slides are properly greased, and there are no leaks. Make sure the master cylinder is in good condition, and consider braided lines if the originals are old and looking a bit knackered. Most people go putting very expensive pads and expensive discs for little reason. Autosolos and targas will be fine on standard brakes, especially with only a 1.2, since you wont be braking from the same speeds as a 1*2. Also nice to have a sump guard on targas, just to prevent you worrying about the larger bumps. I use Koni yellow dampers, and I like the adjustability. Standard 172 Cup springs on mine.

 

[AlanWak]

What app is this Alan? Can't seem to find it [emoji53]
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https://sites.google.com/view/autosolouk
Or you should be able to find it in the Apple or Play Stores.

It's worth joing the "Autosolo" and "Autosolo Forum" Facebook Groups.

 

[Jaack]

Putting bucket seats in mine made a very large difference to the feel of the car, and probably took quite some weight out. I would recommend changing the brake fluid as well. Doesn't need to be anything special, most on here use ATE blue. Make sure carrier slides are properly greased, and there are no leaks. Make sure the master cylinder is in good condition, and consider braided lines if the originals are old and looking a bit knackered. Most people go putting very expensive pads and expensive discs for little reason. Autosolos and targas will be fine on standard brakes, especially with only a 1.2, since you wont be braking from the same speeds as a 1*2. Also nice to have a sump guard on targas, just to prevent you worrying about the larger bumps. I use Koni yellow dampers, and I like the adjustability. Standard 172 Cup springs on mine.

Yeah I think bucket seats are a must! The more set you feel going around corners the more confidence I think! What brand would you suggest? OMP? Sparco? This will probably sound like a real dull question but what do you do in regards to the seatbelt with bucket seats? for Solos it won't be needed but what about for Targas? Keep it standard?
Carrier slides are what hold the brake pads yeah?
I'm not going to bother too much with the brake hoses at the moment. I got a driveshaft coming this week & then I'm going to get the car in for a MOT so I can get in the seat & on the track as soon as possible, just to get some experience! But I will definitely be changing the springs, was thinking Eibach but I might have a look at 172 springs, weigh out the costs.


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[Jaack]

https://sites.google.com/view/autosolouk
Or you should be able to find it in the Apple or Play Stores.

It's worth joing the "Autosolo" and "Autosolo Forum" Facebook Groups.

Still having trouble trying to find it on the App Store, but I will follow them on Facebook & some more forums too.

I got my first club meeting on Tuesday so looking forward to that! See how everything goes! [emoji16]


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[James363]

I have some Recaro Pro Kevlar seats I got for 100 quid on ebay, which everyone I know is saying is the bargain of the century. I love them, they're really good for holding you in, and they look great. I'd invite you to take a look, but you're in wales and im in the south east england aha! I put some TRS 5 point harnesses in, to enable me to take out all of the old seats and runners. I made up some subframes from aerospace aluminium, and put aluminium side mounts on to keep the weight to a bare minimum. My car isn't completely stripped or anything, I just wanted to put as little weight in as possible.
One thing regarding harnesses, is you want the ones with the forged aluminium adjusters, instead of the pressed steel ones, as they are a thousand times easier to adjust, every time you get in the car! I used to commute 5 hours a day in my buckets with harnesses, so anyone that tells you it ruins it as a daily just has a lack of commitment! I'd highly recommend a 5 or 6 point over a 4 point harness, I find it much more secure.
If you are fitting buckets, you'll really want harnesses to hold you in properly, under braking you don't want to be coming out of your seat and trying to hold yourself in place on the wheel and footrest. However you mount your seats, you want to be able to grab them and pull them in any direction as hard as you can with absolutely no movement.
Targas, 12 cars, autosolos are all happy with the standard safety equipment, but allow you to uprate it if you want. Beware marshalls will check the quality of fitment of buckets and harnesses if you have them.
Keep a look on ebay for excellent deals, I clicked the buy it now button on my seats within 4 minutes of them going online, and picked them up within 3 hours, and they were 100 miles away. Out of date seats and harnesses are much better value than the in date ones, since you'll be wasting the FIA date time if you buy them new.
I also fitted a Sabelt steering wheel, which is much better than the original, but requires either a PH1 stalk for the horn, or the drilling of a hole to mount a button.

 

[Jaack]

I have some Recaro Pro Kevlar seats I got for 100 quid on ebay, which everyone I know is saying is the bargain of the century. I love them, they're really good for holding you in, and they look great. I'd invite you to take a look, but you're in wales and im in the south east england aha! I put some TRS 5 point harnesses in, to enable me to take out all of the old seats and runners. I made up some subframes from aerospace aluminium, and put aluminium side mounts on to keep the weight to a bare minimum. My car isn't completely stripped or anything, I just wanted to put as little weight in as possible.
One thing regarding harnesses, is you want the ones with the forged aluminium adjusters, instead of the pressed steel ones, as they are a thousand times easier to adjust, every time you get in the car! I used to commute 5 hours a day in my buckets with harnesses, so anyone that tells you it ruins it as a daily just has a lack of commitment! I'd highly recommend a 5 or 6 point over a 4 point harness, I find it much more secure.
If you are fitting buckets, you'll really want harnesses to hold you in properly, under braking you don't want to be coming out of your seat and trying to hold yourself in place on the wheel and footrest. However you mount your seats, you want to be able to grab them and pull them in any direction as hard as you can with absolutely no movement.
Targas, 12 cars, autosolos are all happy with the standard safety equipment, but allow you to uprate it if you want. Beware marshalls will check the quality of fitment of buckets and harnesses if you have them.
Keep a look on ebay for excellent deals, I clicked the buy it now button on my seats within 4 minutes of them going online, and picked them up within 3 hours, and they were 100 miles away. Out of date seats and harnesses are much better value than the in date ones, since you'll be wasting the FIA date time if you buy them new.
I also fitted a Sabelt steering wheel, which is much better than the original, but requires either a PH1 stalk for the horn, or the drilling of a hole to mount a button.

Yeah FairPlay that is a bargain! lol it's a shame that you live a fair bit away [emoji53] I've seen some brand new OMP seats for £180 & that comes with the mounting brackets, but I'll keep on looking around.
As far as keeping the car standard for solos, what's the limit in regards to the seats? Can I take them all out & just keep the driver seat? Lol
Yeah I was thinking of getting a 5-point harness aswell, for pretty much the exact same reasons you just said.
I do want an aftermarket steering wheel but will leave that on the back burners for now lol


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[James363]

You need to leave them all in for 'solos, targas and 12 cars but you can swap the fronts for race ones, take the rear seatbelts out and remove the sound deadening. You have to have door cards, but they can be the thin sheet race ones.
Most of the cheap new seats have a steel frame, are uncomfortable and weigh quite a lot. If you can run to a sparco rev, its worth it.

 

[AlanWak]

Still having trouble trying to find it on the App Store, but I will follow them on Facebook & some more forums too.

I got my first club meeting on Tuesday so looking forward to that! See how everything goes! [emoji16]
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I've just searched for "autosolo" in the Play Store and Autosolo UK is the first one which comes up. This has the same content as the web site, but the app is far easier to navigate.

 

[AlanWak]

All of your questions regarding what can and can't be done for various disciplines can be found in the MSA "Blue Book". It's a book and it's blue! Every licence holder is sent a copy (it's £33 to buy!) but I bin mine and have the PDF on my phone if there's an issue on an event. I didn't know how much the book was worth, I'll sell mine in future

The book takes a little understanding as you start in the section for the discipline you want, then this can refer to many other sections which are common to other disciplines. You'll soon get the hang of it.

Autosolos were derived from Autotests, so you can find all you need starting in Section M on page 210. Autocross and Rallycross are Section N on page 217. The Rally section, covering stage, road, historic, 12 Car, Regularity, ... starts at page 293.

As mentioned, I'd just make sure that the car is 100% and that everything works as it should, especially brakes, steering and suspension. Suspension first if you want to make changes, the only significant car damaging accident I've seen on an Autosolo was due to the suspension being way too soft. Accidents are VERY rare, I've seen one in all the years I've been competing. I've heard of another due to a rear suspension link breaking, but that could have happened anywhere, it could have been way worse on the road. Just make sure the car is safe in all areas. Get out there, do some driving on events, save your money and upgrade the parts you feel need attention when you have time/funds.

A driver's seat is the next area of attention for my 172. There's nothing wrong with it, I've won Autosolos overall in the 172 with the standard seat and belt. I'd just like to be a little lower and more firmly located. Again as mentioned, look for out of date seats from stage rally cars - they usually haven't been used much and you'll get a far better seat than buying new. Just make sure they're not damaged. My rally cars all have buckets and six point harnesses, they're fine on the road, although some junctions can be a pain as you can't lean forward much. I've used seats with wings around the head and they're a real pain on the road as it makes it even harder to see at junctions. For a stage or race car then yes, but a pain for the road. The lack of movement means that you can't reach things either, so make sure you can reach the door and other things before doing up your harness!

You don't need a Competition Licence to start, you can start with Club membership in Clubman events, events restricted to certain clubs. Just make sure that you join a club which does the type of events you want to do.

You can find the Blue Book at:
https://www.msauk.org/assets/bluebook2017completevlow-res.pdf