Mounting H&R, cornerweighting important?

[franx]

I've searched and found that for a proper nice set-up this is needed ?

How does this work,why is this important ?

(so that i do'nt forget to mention/ask for it at the tyrecentre when balancing + tracking)

cheers all, advice needed as they will be here any day now

ps; i've already heard some favourite settings ; what's yours ?
(for example 0 degree toe-in/out minus 1 camber?)

 

[Markpw]

Most places dont bother with corner weighting as they havent the necessary kit. But as long as the fitter installs them professionally and knows what they are doing you cant go wrong. When i had mine done they had it all day, fitted them did some minor adjustments to ride height etc then let the car settle for a few hours then did the tracking, camber etc. Then if i was unhappy with the ride height i could get them to change it FOC.
Just dont slam it too low or you will just bounce down the roads.
If its a decent garage they will know the optimum ride height etc so wont go too low but its upto personal preference at the end of the day and some people just go for the "wheel scrubbing" look.
Was gonna take mine to Northampton Motorsport to get it cornerweighted and adjusted but it costs quite a bit and after doing another track day my handling feels fine.

 

[The Hoff]

Basically they put a weight in driver seat similar to your own, they then check, setup and recheck each strut changing the ride height and damping rates to get perfect balance. It's more for track cars than road, prob not worth your €.

Just get full IR/laser alignment and camber.

 

[Dan R]

At powerstation where my car was done done they only charge 140 quid for camber, alignment and tracking, and corner weighting all in. and they know what there doin! give em a ring

 

[franx]

thanks guys

 

[franx]

they've just arrived.

without ANY sort of fitting instruction though... they do say that it should be fitted by professionals due to warranty/safety issues, OFCOURSE

so they're thinking the pro's wo'nt have any problems cause they should know what they're doing hmm

might just throw the box in the back and bring it to the pro's

 

[franx]

.... may have forgotten to say; i was going to mount hem myself, then drive around for 2 somethng days after which i was going to bring it to the pro's for proper allignement/tracking/camber settings

now i'm doubting to do the mounting because of lack o instructions

what should i do ?

 

[The Hoff]

Post I found that Fred posted.

easy peasy

i'll start with the rear (always a winner LOL)

rear (30min job)

stick head under car
undo 18mm bolts on bottom of rear shocks (1 per side)
jack up rear of car
rear springs will fall out
put in new springs
you will have to lower the car bit by bit until the springs locate ( a mate is useful here)
put bolts back in, job done (use jack to help you line shock holes up with rear subframe holes)

front

BEFORE you jack the car up undo the 2 21mm top mount caps under the bonnet (soak them in WD40 the night before) don't remove them completley yet

jack up BOTH sides of the car (do this off the box section under the car, NOT ON THE SILL!)

remove wheels

undo lower shock bolts (21mm or 19mm, i can't remember, i've been on the stella)

when the shock is free, remove it by pushing the lower part towards the rear of the car (between the steering arm and the wishbone)

once off the car undo 17mm top nut (if its a 172/182, there's no need for compressors)

bang on new spring and reverse the above process

I fitted my FK's with freds help, wasn't too hard at all. Only problem I had was undoing one of the rubber top mounts that had ceased in place.

My advice would be to soak all the above bolts with WD40 the night before you start work, give them a good soak. Failing that an impact gun may not be a bad idea - I ended up having to drill mine off!

Oh and get a tub of copper grease to coat the struts and springs to stop corrosion.

More guides I've found

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=264449

 

[franx]

Post I found that Fred posted.

easy peasy

i'll start with the rear (always a winner LOL)

rear (30min job)

stick head under car
undo 18mm bolts on bottom of rear shocks (1 per side)
jack up rear of car
rear springs will fall out
put in new springs
you will have to lower the car bit by bit until the springs locate ( a mate is useful here)
put bolts back in, job done (use jack to help you line shock holes up with rear subframe holes)

front

BEFORE you jack the car up undo the 2 21mm top mount caps under the bonnet (soak them in WD40 the night before) don't remove them completley yet

jack up BOTH sides of the car (do this off the box section under the car, NOT ON THE SILL!)

remove wheels

undo lower shock bolts (21mm or 19mm, i can't remember, i've been on the stella)

when the shock is free, remove it by pushing the lower part towards the rear of the car (between the steering arm and the wishbone)

once off the car undo 17mm top nut (if its a 172/182, there's no need for compressors)

bang on new spring and reverse the above process

I fitted my FK's with freds help, wasn't too hard at all. Only problem I had was undoing one of the rubber top mounts that had ceased in place.

My advice would be to soak all the above bolts with WD40 the night before you start work, give them a good soak. Failing that an impact gun may not be a bad idea - I ended up having to drill mine off!

Oh and get a tub of copper grease to coat the struts and springs to stop corrosion.

More guides I've found

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=264449

cheers there Hoff, had this saved in my favorites but forgot about it !