My Audio - First time.

[Max.]

Ok, will be getting my car shortly and I've already got some little Vibe Slick 50 2-way 210W coaxial speakers which are 70W RMS and 200W peak from memory.

Pretty sure I wont be able to run them from the head unit, so will need an amp of some description..?

Anyway, spotted this head unit from CarAudioSecurity which I quite fancy...

Almost forgot, this is to go in a 1.2 16v '01 to '05

Several questions -

1. Am I right in thinking I need some sort of adaptors for the new head unit to be compatible with the little display at the top of the center console, and another stalk adaptor to use the hand control next to the steering wheel? Can somebody point me in the right direction, cheaper the better!
2. Will theseVibe 50s fit in the door speaker housing? Haha, got them for nothing brand new from a friend, didn't buy them so not sure on compatability.
3. Any recomendations on what Amp to get? Assuming I do need one. Again cheaper the better, but don't want some tacky half-arsed rubbish though.
4. Finally - Any recomendations on weather on not to bother with a sub or anything else? Not massively into playing music so everybody within a 5 mile radious can hear it, just want decent quality inside.

Any help on any or all of the points would be much appreciated!

Cheers,
Max

 

[AlexG]

they are coaxials so if you put them in the front they may sound a bit odd as the tweeter will be too low down. components have a seperate tweeter so you can mount it wherever you like. for a nice sounding system i would reccomend a sub, doesnt need to be huge, just an 8" or 10".

 

[2thumbs]

That H/U is currently on special on CAD dude.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/pioneer-dehp6000ub-p-6312.html

They're very good for the price, I recommended it to a friend and found it very feature rich.

Alex has a point, for a more well rounded sound it would be better to go for comps with a decent quality amp.

I have Oz Vector 3 comps running off a Genesis Profile 2 amp, and if I'm honest for daily listening I usually have the sub turned off. I get enough midbass punch to satisfy my needs.

But that's because I have MDF baffles and sound deadened doors, which are very important if you want good sounding speakers.

If those Vibe's are 13cm, they'll fit right in to the doors.

 

[AlexG]

put the coaxials in the back and then get components and a decent amp for the front imo, but this obviosly depends on how much you want to spend.

2thumbs: what do mdf baffles do? give the speaker a more secure mounting rather than the flimsy plastic door card?

 

[Tomc90]

On the pioneers I got they had a Rubber, foam padding theat fittied round the outside so that they were mounted more securely against the door card would this do a similar job to mdf baffles?

 

[wallop]

With regards 'Foam Padding'

This is used to achieve an air tight seal and offer some dampening....

With regards 'MDF' baffles

These are used to offer a 'dead' mounting surface, some form of gasket should also be used to guarantee an air tight seal, both between the MDF and speaker & MDF and door skin.....

In each case the main issue is resonating panels that muddy the output....If you tap the door skin with a metal object you will hear it ring, if you tap the doorskin with the metal object wrapped in foam you won't hear the ring, but the door skin will still resonate to a degree.....If you now tap a piece of MDF with a metal object it doesn't ring, it doesn't resonate, it simply absorbs the shockwave and kills it dead....

So speakers mounted on MDF baffles will play much more naturally than speakers mounted using plastic adaptors or direct to metal....The heavier the speaker, the greater the resonating is....

 

[wallop]

With regards 'Foam Padding'

This is used to achieve an air tight seal and offer some dampening....

With regards 'MDF' baffles

These are used to offer a 'dead' mounting surface, some form of gasket should also be used to guarantee an air tight seal, both between the MDF and speaker & MDF and door skin.....

In each case the main issue is resonating panels that muddy the output....If you tap the door skin with a metal object you will hear it ring, if you tap the doorskin with the metal object wrapped in foam you won't hear the ring, but the door skin will still resonate to a degree.....If you now tap a piece of MDF with a metal object it doesn't ring, it doesn't resonate, it simply absorbs the shockwave and kills it dead....

So speakers mounted on MDF baffles will play much more naturally than speakers mounted using plastic adaptors or direct to metal....The heavier the speaker, the greater the resonating is....

Just read this post back and I feel the highlighted sentence requires a little broader explanation.....

As the panel resonates, (moves to and fro), along the same axis as the speaker, the speakers position itself alters in relation to its initial starting point.....Wow that sounds like its written in a foreign language....so each time the cone moves, it also moves its own mount.....This movement effectively cancels out some cone movement and so affects output quality.....

Hope you understand that because I can't think of a way to explain it better at the moment, maybe after I've had some sleep....

 

[AlexG]

cheers mate, im going to make some up when i get my new amplifier i think.

 

[wallop]

cheers mate, im going to make some up when i get my new amplifier i think.

Coupled with deadening and a sealed door cavity you will be surprised at the quality you will get as a result.....

Installing front speakers in this fashion can increase a systems flexibility to the point where the sub can be removed & not really missed....ideal for those that occasionally require the boot for other things....

 

[AlexG]

cheers mate, im going to make some up when i get my new amplifier i think.

Coupled with deadening and a sealed door cavity you will be surprised at the quality you will get as a result.....

Installing front speakers in this fashion can increase a systems flexibility to the point where the sub can be removed & not really missed....ideal for those that occasionally require the boot for other things....

yes mate, i revieved my sound deadening today and am going to do both doors with that. i was putting it off because of the cost but i figured i dont want to build my new install and have to rip it apart in a few months time to sound deaden because it will sound utter sh*te. rather go all out and do it once properly. thanks though about the mdf baffles i will give them a goo too

 

[wallop]

Examples of MDF baffles; (Not built or made by me, these were obviously made by a pro)....

MDF baffle showing wooden dowels used for support during speaker pod building, (dowels simply hot glued in place.....

Can't locate the full build thread at present, will post a link if I find it....

 

[AlexG]

as for the foam padding around the speaker to give a tighter seal, could i use a small bit of sound deadening?

 

[wallop]

Cheap as chips adhesive draught excluder from B&Q is fine......
The double sided sticky stuff used to mount number plates is best, (comes on a roll, simply cut it to the width & length you require), stick it direct to the speaker, don't expose second sticky side, just screw the speaker in place.......
Sound deadening not really suitable, got very little give and so won't offer a good seal all the way round.......

 

[AlexG]

ace ive got some of that thanks