They do polarise opinion - but I like them and thats all I care about
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My Clio with the engine in the wrong end
- Thread starter DaveL485
- Start date
I was invited to the NEC Classic Car Show by the Renault Owners Club, so off we went. I did take the black plates off to put the standard ones back on just for @andybond but the front one has vanished out of the boot so the black ones went back on. Happy to report that after 3 days of being sat within the range of the general public there is no damage or parts missing
I also spoke to several people that thought the plates really suited it
"Alright Grandad"
so the black ones went back on. Happy to report that after 3 days of being sat within the range of the general public there is no damage or parts missing I also spoke to several people that thought the plates really suited it
"Alright Grandad"
The last couple of times driving the Vee I have noticed a bit of a crankcase smell hanging around, and then on my last drive a wisp of smoke out the sidepods, so I thought it best to investigate. Took all the trim off over the engine, then the inlet manifold.
Had to take the drivers seat out too to access the front bank properly, which revealed...
Looks like a weeping rocker cover is dropping a little oil down on to the cat heatshield....that would be the smelly smell then.
It was straight forward enough to razz out the rocker cover bolts, clean and re-seal it. You cant get gaskets for the covers by the look of it, you have to buy new covers (which are also NLA), so it was a good clean and refit with a smear of Reinzosil.
All good, sealed with no leaks now, sounding on point!
Had to take the drivers seat out too to access the front bank properly, which revealed...
Looks like a weeping rocker cover is dropping a little oil down on to the cat heatshield....that would be the smelly smell then.
It was straight forward enough to razz out the rocker cover bolts, clean and re-seal it. You cant get gaskets for the covers by the look of it, you have to buy new covers (which are also NLA), so it was a good clean and refit with a smear of Reinzosil.
All good, sealed with no leaks now, sounding on point!
Martin_172
ClioSport Club Member
Stunning, really like that.
Plates ruin it imo though
Plates ruin it imo though
I'm considering putting normal ones back on for the summer....maybe.
Busted AC pipe fixed. Had to nab a PAD fitting of a povvo spec Mk2 Clio - PAD fittings are not standardised it seems and even the Mk3 Clio is different! The Mk2 pipe was the same fitting but bigger diameter pipe, which fortunately sleeved over the Vee one. Now fitted and seems OK. Of course the pipe itself is NLA so I had to fix this one.
Took it for a re-gas and now the top PAD fitting is leaking despite me replacing the seal on it. For gods sake. Left that in a huff.
Cleaned it. Well, paid someone to do it for me.
New front discs, pads and caliper pins. Calipers were in great nick, dust seals were perfect, no drag or siezing on the pistons.
The ends of these took some damage when I punched them out so for the sake of a tenner I got new ones.
New ABS targets, 48 teeth, more than a normal Clio. £40 each!!
Took it for a re-gas and now the top PAD fitting is leaking despite me replacing the seal on it. For gods sake. Left that in a huff.
Cleaned it. Well, paid someone to do it for me.
New front discs, pads and caliper pins. Calipers were in great nick, dust seals were perfect, no drag or siezing on the pistons.
The ends of these took some damage when I punched them out so for the sake of a tenner I got new ones.
New ABS targets, 48 teeth, more than a normal Clio. £40 each!!
New rear discs and pads too. Spoiling it this month! Old rear pads had some odd wear, the pad material was attached too high up the pad....strange!
Much better. 300mm vented discs on the back of these things.
And took it for a weekend away - yes, I put normie plates back on....for now!
Much better. 300mm vented discs on the back of these things.
And took it for a weekend away
- yes, I put normie plates back on....for now!Its a Jansport stainless. It sounds FABULOUS, I get quite a lot of comments on its exhaust note
Its a Jansport stainless. It sounds FABULOUS, I get quite a lot of comments on its exhaust note
I've heard good things about that set up. I'm currently looking into a titanium exhaust for the Ph1 but stuck whether to go for it or not as concerned it's too loud!
Apparently the orbisound is super loud so watch out for that one. Keep an eye out for a Jansport, they really got it bang on, though i've only seen two for sale since 2015 so if one does come up, grab it fast!
I've had it far too easy of late, it seems, and the car has decided to test my patience a little.
The plan was to take it to LeMans this year. I was aware however of a low rumbling appearing at the rear near side when cold which reduced when hot and resonance directly related to road speed - so I was thinking wheel bearing or CV joint. Driveshafts will degrade fairly slowly and I wasnt worried about a thousand mile trip if it was that, however, a grumbly wheel bearing - mmmm I thought I would change them just to be on the safe side. I bought some good quality Meyle wheel bearings which are readily available for the Laguna front hubs on the back of the Vee and got to work... and then the first problem reared its ugly head. As a result of running with no wheel centres for a good portion of its life on the Croms, the main driveshaft nuts had rusted on to the shaft threads. After some careful thought, tweaks with a grinder on the nut and liberal application of a Milwaukee M18 impact gun I got the first one off on the O/S. You can see in the pic though how the threads have degraded from being exposed to the elements.
Still, it was OK, the nut came off and I got the stub axle apart and fitted the new bearing in, noting that the bracket for the laguna ABS sensor is there in the hub but unused as the Vee uses a reluctor ring and separate sensor instead of the target built into the Laguna wheel bearing. I didnt plan on taking the shaft out, but later did so because I spotted a broken bolt in the shaft support bearing bracket and I changed the outer boot which looked a bit perished/old.
Then on to the other side - followed the same procedure to get the nut off. The Milwaukee gun has a staggering 1897nm of undoing torque available which is great for stuff like this.... normally. It cracked off the nut, which was pleasing, but as it wound off the shaft things took a nasty turn. Where the shaft threads had degraded, it got crossed up and in the few seconds before I realised the nut has stopped moving it ate the threads. By the time I got it off... ewww.
Not good. I bit the bullet and dropped the 'box oil, pulled the shafts out and started looking at solutions. I spent quite a while looking for parts, found a couple of solutions that were VERY unpalatable cost wise including a brand new OE complete shaft, and settled on a complete used Laguna V6 shaft to rebuild mine with. Bought, paid, two days later he refunds my money "can't find it". This also sealed the fate of LeMans as the refund came on Tuesday with departure Wednesday so I left the Vee on stands and went in my Clio 220 Trophy. Humph.
Before I left on Weds a few hours research managed to find a complete outer CV for a Laguna V6 brand new that was the right measurements. Ordered that for when I got back. SImple...right? WRONG.
See that red marked ridge? The Vee shaft doesnt have that ridge, so its now in the machine shop being modified as that ridge drags on the ABS target bracket at the back of the bearing (yes thats right, the one you dont actually need on the Vee!) If that wasn't enough, this CV is a slightly smaller diameter overall and the ABS target doesnt fit - SIGH. I'm kinda comitted now and having a new CV solution is preferable so I'm having a pair of new ABS reluctors made to suit the slightly smaller CV joint (like, 5mm difference in diameter if not less, it's tiny). When I do the cambelt this winter i'll switch the other side over to a new CV also and stash the old one as backup. Hopefully when the CV gets back, I can assemble the bloody thing and everything will work as it should!
In other news I had the centre console painted iceberg, it has some scratches and stuff so thats now redressed and ready to refit.
Hope that its all sorted for Silverstone Classic, it was only supposed to be on stands for the day!
The plan was to take it to LeMans this year. I was aware however of a low rumbling appearing at the rear near side when cold which reduced when hot and resonance directly related to road speed - so I was thinking wheel bearing or CV joint. Driveshafts will degrade fairly slowly and I wasnt worried about a thousand mile trip if it was that, however, a grumbly wheel bearing - mmmm I thought I would change them just to be on the safe side. I bought some good quality Meyle wheel bearings which are readily available for the Laguna front hubs on the back of the Vee and got to work... and then the first problem reared its ugly head. As a result of running with no wheel centres for a good portion of its life on the Croms, the main driveshaft nuts had rusted on to the shaft threads. After some careful thought, tweaks with a grinder on the nut and liberal application of a Milwaukee M18 impact gun I got the first one off on the O/S. You can see in the pic though how the threads have degraded from being exposed to the elements.
Still, it was OK, the nut came off and I got the stub axle apart and fitted the new bearing in, noting that the bracket for the laguna ABS sensor is there in the hub but unused as the Vee uses a reluctor ring and separate sensor instead of the target built into the Laguna wheel bearing. I didnt plan on taking the shaft out, but later did so because I spotted a broken bolt in the shaft support bearing bracket and I changed the outer boot which looked a bit perished/old.
Then on to the other side - followed the same procedure to get the nut off. The Milwaukee gun has a staggering 1897nm of undoing torque available which is great for stuff like this.... normally. It cracked off the nut, which was pleasing, but as it wound off the shaft things took a nasty turn. Where the shaft threads had degraded, it got crossed up and in the few seconds before I realised the nut has stopped moving it ate the threads. By the time I got it off... ewww.
Not good. I bit the bullet and dropped the 'box oil, pulled the shafts out and started looking at solutions. I spent quite a while looking for parts, found a couple of solutions that were VERY unpalatable cost wise including a brand new OE complete shaft, and settled on a complete used Laguna V6 shaft to rebuild mine with. Bought, paid, two days later he refunds my money "can't find it". This also sealed the fate of LeMans as the refund came on Tuesday with departure Wednesday so I left the Vee on stands and went in my Clio 220 Trophy. Humph.
Before I left on Weds a few hours research managed to find a complete outer CV for a Laguna V6 brand new that was the right measurements. Ordered that for when I got back. SImple...right? WRONG.
See that red marked ridge? The Vee shaft doesnt have that ridge, so its now in the machine shop being modified as that ridge drags on the ABS target bracket at the back of the bearing (yes thats right, the one you dont actually need on the Vee!) If that wasn't enough, this CV is a slightly smaller diameter overall and the ABS target doesnt fit - SIGH. I'm kinda comitted now and having a new CV solution is preferable so I'm having a pair of new ABS reluctors made to suit the slightly smaller CV joint (like, 5mm difference in diameter if not less, it's tiny). When I do the cambelt this winter i'll switch the other side over to a new CV also and stash the old one as backup. Hopefully when the CV gets back, I can assemble the bloody thing and everything will work as it should!
In other news I had the centre console painted iceberg, it has some scratches and stuff so thats now redressed and ready to refit.
Hope that its all sorted for Silverstone Classic, it was only supposed to be on stands for the day!
Machined, fitted, boot on. Old ABS target broke taking it off (and is too big) but I glued it on with spacers and tiger seal so I can prove it all works before I buy the new targets. If its OK I will buy another new CV for the other side, 2 ABS targets and change the other one when I pop the engine out for the belts.
Now refitted to the car, oil refilled, pending road test.
Now refitted to the car, oil refilled, pending road test.
Centre console back in (god damn thing, you have to disconnect the handbrake cables to remove/refit it) and looking really good, very pleased.
Test drive No1 - I could hear something unsavoury out the window, like a brief regular scrape once per wheel rotation - quick nose at the back revealed the driveshaft boot clip on the big end was juuuust skimming the ABS sensor bracket as it rotated. Tiny tweak and it was clearing it.
Test drive No2 - successful, driving lovely again. Needs a geo as I had to take the camber bolts out, otherwise good to go and the rumbling is gone (though I dont know if it was the bearing or CV as its had both now!). Just in time to take my daughter to her Prom party on Friday.
Test drive No1 - I could hear something unsavoury out the window, like a brief regular scrape once per wheel rotation - quick nose at the back revealed the driveshaft boot clip on the big end was juuuust skimming the ABS sensor bracket as it rotated. Tiny tweak and it was clearing it.
Test drive No2 - successful, driving lovely again. Needs a geo as I had to take the camber bolts out, otherwise good to go and the rumbling is gone
(though I dont know if it was the bearing or CV as its had both now!). Just in time to take my daughter to her Prom party on Friday.
Owen
ClioSport Admin
I’m gutted Dave - every time I had a spare 5 mins to watch some track action you were coming off track in the v6!
Hopefully next time I’ll get to see you take it around track!!
Thanks again for your kind donations to the raffle and great atmosphere you and the TR guys bring.
Hopefully next time I’ll get to see you take it around track!!
Thanks again for your kind donations to the raffle and great atmosphere you and the TR guys bring.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
I saw it go quite sideways at one point on track, it happened quite quickly and looked very cool.
Hit me up next time and i'll take you for a passenger ride.
My car has a few tweaks to make it handle better, it has a longer wheelbase than other Phase 1 V6's, wider tyres on the larger phase 2 wheels with some seemingly odd tyre pressures, and some camber mods. Its very usable now, it took me quite a while to get it right. A pro racing driver drove it on the Elvington photoshoot and was quite amazed at how good it is. If I take it in to the corner sensibly I can give it a bootful on the way out and it will behave fairly well - as you probably saw
Update time - car was SORN'd for a bit as the belts were due - big job. It last had a belt service in 2015, schedule is 5 years or 72k. Ill run belts 50% over on time if the mileage is low, so 7.5 years which was last year hence it got parked.
So - IT'S TIME. After considering multiple ideas for getting that great big cradle out the back I was fortunate enough to have and offer from a good friend for a 2-poster for 3 days. I grabbed the chance!
Started by stripping off the engine covers and trims
Undertrays
I've never tackled anything this deep in the Vee before so I was keeping it super organised with all the nuts and bolts sectioned up etc etc.
I was concentrating and on a schedule so I didnt stop to take too make pics, basically I removed the calipers and hung them from the rear shocks, dropped off the shock>stub axle mount and handbrake cables to disconnect the rear suspension, pulled the exhaust rubbers off, then set about inside the bay with coolant lines, wiring harness, gear shift cables... the usual stuff. The AC lines were difficult and inaccessible, I had to undo the lines at the compressor after dropping the subframe a few inches, as when you unclip them from under the car it gives you a fair amount of play/movement to do so. I made a written list of disassembly order so I would make sure I put everything back the right way. By the first afternoon I had the engine & box dropped on the rear cradle.
A big hole
So - IT'S TIME. After considering multiple ideas for getting that great big cradle out the back I was fortunate enough to have and offer from a good friend for a 2-poster for 3 days. I grabbed the chance!
Started by stripping off the engine covers and trims
Undertrays
I've never tackled anything this deep in the Vee before so I was keeping it super organised with all the nuts and bolts sectioned up etc etc.
I was concentrating and on a schedule so I didnt stop to take too make pics, basically I removed the calipers and hung them from the rear shocks, dropped off the shock>stub axle mount and handbrake cables to disconnect the rear suspension, pulled the exhaust rubbers off, then set about inside the bay with coolant lines, wiring harness, gear shift cables... the usual stuff. The AC lines were difficult and inaccessible, I had to undo the lines at the compressor after dropping the subframe a few inches, as when you unclip them from under the car it gives you a fair amount of play/movement to do so. I made a written list of disassembly order so I would make sure I put everything back the right way. By the first afternoon I had the engine & box dropped on the rear cradle.
A big hole
The way its set up means I could drop the whole cradle down complete, and though the engine mounts are suspended it sits on blocks within the subframe easily. With the engine down and car up, i didnt need to move it anywhere (which means it stayed in the right place to go back in). No need to drain any oils either, which was great as both of these are recently changed.
Started by removing the aux belt and tensioner, then the main cambelt covers.
The cambelt is massive, over 2 metres. I rotated the engine and fitted the locking kit, which i had got hold of previously, and all five pins slotted in nicely (4 x cam and 1 x crank)
With that, off came the belt and tensioner and all the idlers. You can see here the new parts on, and the belt ready to loop on.
Started by removing the aux belt and tensioner, then the main cambelt covers.
The cambelt is massive, over 2 metres. I rotated the engine and fitted the locking kit, which i had got hold of previously, and all five pins slotted in nicely (4 x cam and 1 x crank)
With that, off came the belt and tensioner and all the idlers. You can see here the new parts on, and the belt ready to loop on.
I stopped for a cuppa and had a chat with my mate who owns the garage about the procedure, cant take any risks with this I dont fancy bending a bunch of valves! I threaded the belt on, then released all the pulleys - if you look at the pics you can see they all have 4 10mm bolts holding them in alignment. If you dont release them, the belt keeps some play between the crank and first pulley meaning if you take the pins out the crank will move around half a tooth before it moves the cams - thats no good obviously. By releasing the cam pulley outers, you can pull the belt tight on the tensioner to take up that play without moving the cams themselves. I probably havent explained it too well but hopefully you get what I mean. Anyway, I did this then threadlocked the bolts back in and torqued them. They're not stretch bolts and can be reused. Once this was done I rotated the engine a few times and refitted the locking tools to check alignment - which was good. Covers back on, was pleased with that.
Old belt looked good for an 8 year old belt - probably would have done ten years no troubles but 50% over is plenty enough for me so was right to change it. Mileage wise its done about 14,000. No damage or cracks, no split teeth, nothing.
Old belt looked good for an 8 year old belt - probably would have done ten years no troubles but 50% over is plenty enough for me so was right to change it. Mileage wise its done about 14,000. No damage or cracks, no split teeth, nothing.
Aux belt refitted with new tensioner and idler and that finished off day one, it was ready to lift back in the next day.
Day 2 begins with lifting the brute back up and reconnecting the AC pipes, I had a couple of helpers watch the engine back in so it didnt snag anything (cheers guys!). Pretty uneventful, lifted back in and bolts threaded up.
The rest of the day was spent connecting it back up, pretty standard stuff, went through my list backwards.
I got all the way back to refilling the cooling system and all I had to do aside fitting the engine covers and undertrays was fill it and bleed it. Things had gone well, to plan, I was going to be done in 2 days and not need the contingency day on Friday.
However.
I filled the cooling system and bled the engine, I tightened the brass bleed screw back up and without any pressure on it at all...
f***s SAKE. Fuming. So I tried to get an easy-out in the shaft of the bolt, but it wouldnt grip the brass screw. I was running short of time and pretty mad, in retrospect i should have quit there... but I didnt. I drilled the thing out to 5mm, then tapped the hole to M6 - though space wise things were really tight
About ten seconds after this picture I overbalanced while turning the tap and stressed it the wrong way and snapped the tap in the hole absolutely fuming mad, swears were said, tools flying everywhere. I had to knock it on the head before I set everything on fire. I cooled off that night and set a plan for Friday.
Friday I returned and stripped a load of stuff out again and took the housing off the car, in a much calmer mindset. I had the housing off in less than an hour, and took it to a workbench for plan A - get the tap body out. As it happens, I managed to do this by MIG welding a nut to it, and winding it out - many cheers were shouted. Then i just tapped the rest of the hole out (without breaking it this time!) and fitted an M6 flange bolt with a copper washer.
Long story short, this worked great, housing refitted, rest of car assembled and then I left it there for an MOT test before it came home. The MOT was Tuesday, after the bank holiday, when it promptly kicked me in the spuds by snapping a handbrake cable on the brake test. Lasted 22 years and couldnt manage one more pull! FFS - so I brought it home Wednesday and contemplated options. Obviously the Vee handbrake cabled are bespoke, not available and HUGE - about 2300mm each!
Day 2 begins with lifting the brute back up and reconnecting the AC pipes, I had a couple of helpers watch the engine back in so it didnt snag anything (cheers guys!). Pretty uneventful, lifted back in and bolts threaded up.
The rest of the day was spent connecting it back up, pretty standard stuff, went through my list backwards.
I got all the way back to refilling the cooling system and all I had to do aside fitting the engine covers and undertrays was fill it and bleed it. Things had gone well, to plan, I was going to be done in 2 days and not need the contingency day on Friday.
However.
I filled the cooling system and bled the engine, I tightened the brass bleed screw back up and without any pressure on it at all...
f***s SAKE. Fuming. So I tried to get an easy-out in the shaft of the bolt, but it wouldnt grip the brass screw. I was running short of time and pretty mad, in retrospect i should have quit there... but I didnt. I drilled the thing out to 5mm, then tapped the hole to M6 - though space wise things were really tight
About ten seconds after this picture I overbalanced while turning the tap and stressed it the wrong way and snapped the tap in the hole
absolutely fuming mad, swears were said, tools flying everywhere. I had to knock it on the head before I set everything on fire. I cooled off that night and set a plan for Friday. Friday I returned and stripped a load of stuff out again and took the housing off the car, in a much calmer mindset. I had the housing off in less than an hour, and took it to a workbench for plan A - get the tap body out. As it happens, I managed to do this by MIG welding a nut to it, and winding it out - many cheers were shouted. Then i just tapped the rest of the hole out (without breaking it this time!) and fitted an M6 flange bolt with a copper washer.
Long story short, this worked great, housing refitted, rest of car assembled and then I left it there for an MOT test before it came home. The MOT was Tuesday, after the bank holiday, when it promptly kicked me in the spuds by snapping a handbrake cable on the brake test. Lasted 22 years and couldnt manage one more pull! FFS - so I brought it home Wednesday and contemplated options. Obviously the Vee handbrake cabled are bespoke, not available and HUGE - about 2300mm each!
It looks like i'll have to have some bespoke handbrake cables made to do the job properly, but as this is time consuming and costly, and I want to take the car somewhere this month I got hold of some 3mm steel cable and end clamp/terminator things I tried to spot some weld on the cable to stop it fraying, but it wouldnt weld at all, I tried solder and that didnt work so I epoxied about 3" of cable with Gorilla Epoxy. When that dried, I cut through it clean with a grinder and skinned the surplus epoxy off with a stanley knife. This gave me a clean end with no fraying, and allowed me to feed the cable through the cable sheath left on the car (after I took the old cable out). To my shock and delight it fed through first time! So then I had to fit the end terminators, they were a bit bigger than the usual ends but they worked ok. Tensioned the cable after trimming it to length and it seems to work fine
Retest Thursday.
Retest Thursday.
Running and driving absolutely beautifully, and made the trip to Oulton Park for a static show on Saturday without complaint. I really enjoyed driving it again after the recent sabbatical. I would go as far as to say this is the best handling V6 in the country, with its modifications and geo setup. Its just not scary, at all, even in the downpour on the way home it behaved impeccably. The engine sings an absolutely glorious soundtrack as it climbs through the rev range, when you're slick with the shifter and nail the changes just right it makes you feel so good.
Its not a car you stop, turn, and look at as you walk away. You walk away from it backwards & staring, with a HUGE grin on your face.
Its not a car you stop, turn, and look at as you walk away. You walk away from it backwards & staring, with a HUGE grin on your face.
I always thought private plates were a bit wanker-ey, but a year or so ago I happened upon the plate "REN 21T" and I had to have it for my 21 Turbo. So I did.
Then I stumbled across CL10 RSU for a stupendous price so I told myself I could get away with it and put it on my Clio 220 - I mean - I feel like a bit of a wanker but I do quite like it. I almost took it off when a barry boy in an S4 came alongside on the motorway in traffic and yelled "MINT PLATE MATE" with a thumbs up at me on the way back from Solihull.
And thus we arrive at the point i've gone full on wanker mode with the Vee now too... sigh!
I'm not sure it'll be possible to park them together without being labelled as a complete and utter dickhead.
P.S. yes the grey rug is lush, I like walking on it in thin socks (but not bare feet, eww)
Then I stumbled across CL10 RSU for a stupendous price so I told myself I could get away with it and put it on my Clio 220 - I mean - I feel like a bit of a wanker but I do quite like it. I almost took it off when a barry boy in an S4 came alongside on the motorway in traffic and yelled "MINT PLATE MATE" with a thumbs up at me on the way back from Solihull.
And thus we arrive at the point i've gone full on wanker mode with the Vee now too... sigh!
I'm not sure it'll be possible to park them together without being labelled as a complete and utter dickhead.
P.S. yes the grey rug is lush, I like walking on it in thin socks (but not bare feet, eww)
Well I just did the fricking cambelt so i'm hoping it wont rinse me for anything else for a little while at least!
Fog light rectified - pleasingly managed it without taking the bumper off.
Then up on stands for a brake fluid change, I put some Mobil RBF 660 in as recommended by the man himself @Brigsy
Weather was nice so worked outside. Lovely day, and the god of bleed nipples was kind. All six came undone (ignore the pallets someone gave me a load for free for firewood!)
Squeaky clean and fresh.
Then up on stands for a brake fluid change, I put some Mobil RBF 660 in as recommended by the man himself @Brigsy
Weather was nice so worked outside. Lovely day, and the god of bleed nipples was kind. All six came undone
(ignore the pallets someone gave me a load for free for firewood!)Squeaky clean and fresh.
